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To drill or not to drill
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
To drill or not to drill
I have a freshly rebuilt 2L diesel engine that Im about to put into the Lux, also have a CT20 turbo to bolt to the side, but the manifolds wont fit my engine.
The engine is an early 2L, and the turbo kit came with all hoses, pipes, lines, brackets, and 2 turbo manifolds to suit the turbo, and a 2L diesel engine.
This is how the mounting pattern is on my engine........
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_G_1987_T ... _1701.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
And this is the mounting pattern on the 2 turbo manifolds I have.........
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1989_T ... _1701.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Ive done alot of searching here and elsewhere, and found that I can simply remove the studs from the head, and put them into the extra holes that are in the head, so the manifold lines up nicely. That would be great, but there are no extra holes in the side of my head.
The manifolds are cast so arent really weldable at all.
Ive also read that I can replace the head with a later model head, that has the extra holes, but that isnt an option for me, as Ive just spent the money getting this head serviced.
Ive also read that I can drill and tap some holes into the head so that the manifold will line up, but have heard good and bad reports on drilling into the heads on engines.
Ive read that it works ok if its done properly, and it will be(my engine builder will be doing the work). And that you need to drill 17mm into the head(also read that you drill 30mm into the head).
My only other option is to spend alot of money on getting a custom turbo manifold made up, or trying to do it myself(but my welds probably arent up to something like this, and it needs to be done 110% right).
Can anyone tell me if drilling into the head of an early 2L will be ok??
Has anyone done it before?? Know someone that has done it??
My engine builder is happy to drill/tap holes, but is relying on me for the correct info before he starts.
Please help soon, I need to get this engine into the DL, and the manifold is the only thing stopping progress.
Thanks guys
The engine is an early 2L, and the turbo kit came with all hoses, pipes, lines, brackets, and 2 turbo manifolds to suit the turbo, and a 2L diesel engine.
This is how the mounting pattern is on my engine........
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_G_1987_T ... _1701.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
And this is the mounting pattern on the 2 turbo manifolds I have.........
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1989_T ... _1701.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Ive done alot of searching here and elsewhere, and found that I can simply remove the studs from the head, and put them into the extra holes that are in the head, so the manifold lines up nicely. That would be great, but there are no extra holes in the side of my head.
The manifolds are cast so arent really weldable at all.
Ive also read that I can replace the head with a later model head, that has the extra holes, but that isnt an option for me, as Ive just spent the money getting this head serviced.
Ive also read that I can drill and tap some holes into the head so that the manifold will line up, but have heard good and bad reports on drilling into the heads on engines.
Ive read that it works ok if its done properly, and it will be(my engine builder will be doing the work). And that you need to drill 17mm into the head(also read that you drill 30mm into the head).
My only other option is to spend alot of money on getting a custom turbo manifold made up, or trying to do it myself(but my welds probably arent up to something like this, and it needs to be done 110% right).
Can anyone tell me if drilling into the head of an early 2L will be ok??
Has anyone done it before?? Know someone that has done it??
My engine builder is happy to drill/tap holes, but is relying on me for the correct info before he starts.
Please help soon, I need to get this engine into the DL, and the manifold is the only thing stopping progress.
Thanks guys
MrsForby wrote: Oh I desperately truly love the taco.
Re: To drill or not to drill
Tony, what is cost of replacement engine vs custom manifold if this doesn't work. Are you skilled enough to make a manifold and just tac it then take it to be welded maybe? I have no experience in this but that would be my thinking if it was on my car.
1993 80 series, 4" tough dog adjustable bb lift kit, LPG, 35" MTR'S
brooksy wrote:Branden Tagg.....He is the King of all f@rkups & a Gimps bitch after hours
Resident Terrorist
Re: To drill or not to drill
DUDELUX wrote:The manifolds are cast so arent really weldable at all.
This is a falacy (or phalacy ), welding to cast steel is definately doable. It just has to be done a certain way - preferably by a professional who knows the procedure. Ring an engineering/fabrication shop and ask them if they can do it, if they can't they will know who can. I think it is by far your best option (and probably be the cheapest) to just have 4 lugs welded to one of your manifolds. They will want your old manifold as a template.
Re: To drill or not to drill
Someone just sent me this link.
It wasnt there when I searched 50+ pages on ebay last week.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/toyota-turbo ... 231edf4a65" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
It wasnt there when I searched 50+ pages on ebay last week.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/toyota-turbo ... 231edf4a65" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
MrsForby wrote: Oh I desperately truly love the taco.
Re: To drill or not to drill
$280 shipped ebay booty fab
I reckon you'd find someone who'd do it for a couple of cartons on the coast. Where are you working? can you do the rounds of a few engineering or metal fab shops at lunch and ask around to see if some one will do it as a foreign order?
I reckon you'd find someone who'd do it for a couple of cartons on the coast. Where are you working? can you do the rounds of a few engineering or metal fab shops at lunch and ask around to see if some one will do it as a foreign order?
RN wrote:pussy is out, its the log for me... Thank you Jesus.
Re: To drill or not to drill
Toeknee, I have sent my bro a message, good chance he could know someone on the coast who could do something like this for you. Not sure, but will let you know if he comes back with something useful.
RN wrote:pussy is out, its the log for me... Thank you Jesus.
Re: To drill or not to drill
Thanks Dave.
Let me know asap please mate.
Let me know asap please mate.
MrsForby wrote: Oh I desperately truly love the taco.
Posts: 3725
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:45 pm
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:45 pm
Location: Blue Mountains, or on a rig somewhere in bumf*ck idaho
Re: To drill or not to drill
I would either weld to the cast or make up a manifold adaptor
Weld to cast
Preheat part and soak in heat.
TIG using a silicon bronze filler rod
Post heat with rosebud tip then wrap in fire blanket and insulation to SLOOOOWWWWWLLY cool over about 10 hours.
or,
Make up a pattern and cut out flanges for both patterns, booty fab up the metal in between the two to mate together. Bring to me and i can TIG or Stick it up.
Weld to cast
Preheat part and soak in heat.
TIG using a silicon bronze filler rod
Post heat with rosebud tip then wrap in fire blanket and insulation to SLOOOOWWWWWLLY cool over about 10 hours.
or,
Make up a pattern and cut out flanges for both patterns, booty fab up the metal in between the two to mate together. Bring to me and i can TIG or Stick it up.
http://www.populationparty.org.au/
Re: To drill or not to drill
if all else fails get a 16 or 20mm plate and drill and tap holes as a sandwich plate between head and manifold.
turbos are nice but i'd rather be blown
Re: To drill or not to drill
The factory manifold is nothing special ... and not exactly rare either ...
Butcher it long long long long before you start poking holes in heads.
Or get a custom one made up to suit ... will be cheaper than phwucking up a head and end up with a better manifold overall..
Butcher it long long long long before you start poking holes in heads.
Or get a custom one made up to suit ... will be cheaper than phwucking up a head and end up with a better manifold overall..
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
Re: To drill or not to drill
Did you get my SMS ?
Thinking on the same lines as Milo for welding. Grind, prep, pre-heat, weld with MIG, post-heat and cool buried in dry sand
It's a lot less work (+ quickest, cheapest option) to weld some tabs on your manifold then fab a sandwich plate. Just need a gasket as a template.
The stock manifold will be fine, and better than the eBay one IMO
Thinking on the same lines as Milo for welding. Grind, prep, pre-heat, weld with MIG, post-heat and cool buried in dry sand
It's a lot less work (+ quickest, cheapest option) to weld some tabs on your manifold then fab a sandwich plate. Just need a gasket as a template.
The stock manifold will be fine, and better than the eBay one IMO
RN wrote:pussy is out, its the log for me... Thank you Jesus.
Re: To drill or not to drill
Yeah Dave I got your text mate. Thanks for the offer Milo but the lux won't make it to your place, let alone make it home again.
I'm not keen on putting this off any longer as I've been hunting for a manifold for a week and just want my engine done so it can be fitted.
I bought the eBay manifold today, it's been custom made to suit my turbo and my engine, I sent him the measurements today and it's been done.
I was quoted $700 for a custom manifold and this one is less than half the price and will flow a lot better than the stock manifolds.
I should be able to sell both these stock manifolds and make my money back on the custom one.
Thanks for the replies and advice guys, I appreciate it.
I'm not keen on putting this off any longer as I've been hunting for a manifold for a week and just want my engine done so it can be fitted.
I bought the eBay manifold today, it's been custom made to suit my turbo and my engine, I sent him the measurements today and it's been done.
I was quoted $700 for a custom manifold and this one is less than half the price and will flow a lot better than the stock manifolds.
I should be able to sell both these stock manifolds and make my money back on the custom one.
Thanks for the replies and advice guys, I appreciate it.
MrsForby wrote: Oh I desperately truly love the taco.
Re: To drill or not to drill
No worries mate, can understand you wanting to get it all sorted, if I had a motor and turbo waiting to go in, I'd be keen as to get it all going.
You won't know the old dudelux, going from a tired motor, to a fresh turbo'd one you'll have to paint it red again, yellow is going to be too slow for the turbo'd version
You won't know the old dudelux, going from a tired motor, to a fresh turbo'd one you'll have to paint it red again, yellow is going to be too slow for the turbo'd version
RN wrote:pussy is out, its the log for me... Thank you Jesus.
Re: To drill or not to drill
From 2.4lt turbo maifold on to a 2.4l
Canyonero 4x4 wrote:I had 1988 2L motor in a 1985 LN65 Dual Cab.
I put a Surf turbo and manifold on it.
The holes did not line up.
I sat the manifold on the head, doing up as many bolts as lined up.
The motor was still in the car.
Then using a shitty angle drill adaptor from bunnings, drilled new holes into the head. I new this would work as I had just done a motor swap and this vehicle already had the surf turbo setup on the 1985 2L motor I pulled out. The motor I pulled out appeared to have had extra holes fitted (from factory or not I do not know).
Anyway, so I drilled new holes into the side of the head.
If I remember rightly I put a bit of grease on the drill bit to catch any swarf.
The only problem I had was hitting a water jacket with one hole.
I put some sealant on this stud.
Everything was okay and the whole thing worked out great.
If you're considering swapping to a head with all the holes you may aswell give this ago. If you fuck it up you're no worse off.
This was the drill attatchment I used.
Cost <$20 from Cunnings.
Dave
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