22R tappets

[djmickyg]

has anyone adjusted the tappets on a 22R?

was it a job the back yard tinker could do (with some research)

or is it a job thats best left to the Pros?

thanks Mick

[basketcase]

If you can your hand on some feeler gauges its not that hard.

[djmickyg]

i got them.. does anyone know the gap that there is ment to be?

does the tappet need to be adjusted when the piston is at DTC? or can i do all 4 at once with out turing the engine over?

[basketcase]

2 and 3 I think?? you can't do all four at once, you have to turn the engine over for each one.

[Shadow]

im fairly sure you can do the exhaust of 2 and inlet of two at once, and then rotate to do the other 4

does the 22R use shims or a screw to adjust the tappets, if it uses shims its an absolute pain in the arse, of its screw its pretty easy, loosen the nut, tighten it down to the feeler guage and tighhten her back up.

the gregories manual i have for my 2H says ya can do the inlet of 3 and exhaust of the other 3 at same time, so long as motor is in right position. then you rotate a bit and do the rest. Maybe take a peep at a gregories manual at autobarn etc and get the angles and the feeler size

[djmickyg]

i went to the libary today and got the shop manual for it..
it doesnt look too hard at all.

looks like i got a project

[djmickyg]

heres what i got sofar

get piston 1 to TDC on the compression stroke then i can adjust 4 of the tappets then turn the engine 360Deg and adjust the 4 others..
simple..

it does say the mesurments have to be taken when the engine is hot.
so does this mean i have to have the car to full operating temp befor i take the rocker cover off. then when its warmed up start work on it?

it says when adjusting a cold engine alow an extra .1mm for warm up and when its warmed up recheck the gaps

Shadow: it does hae the screw adjusters.. lucky for that

[basketcase]

I did it on a reco 22r I put in a hilux last week and I went for a spin around the block first.

[toysuzi]

cold setting
inlet valve 0.20mm
exhaust valve 0.30mm


turn crank pulley to tdc no1 set in/ex tapperts & inlet on no2 & exhaust on3 then turn 360d adjust both no4 tapperts & inlet no3 exhaust no 2 cylinders.


to find tdc line up crank pulley mark remove dizzy cap & check rotor buttons lined up with n01 lead then adjust & do the same to line up no4 cylinder

if u live local i could adjust them for you (newcastle)

[djmickyg]

im in melb, but thanks anyways..

thats a better way to find TDC.. i was told to just stick a screw driver down the spark plug hole and when its pushed out as far as it can go then thats TDC...

what spare parts will i need? just a rocker cover gaskit?
thats all i can think off

[toysuzi]

yes u can do it that way. but the camshaft may be 180d out. as the cam shaft spins half the speed of the crank shaft. eg (cam shaft lines up with timing marks ones every 720d crank shaft every 360d.)


1x rocker cover gasket-genuine or repco/peps/auto 1 etc

2x half moon seals (1 each end off head) genuine or repco peps/auto 1 etc

4x gromets (thay seal the rocker cover bolts) genuine only (cannot get after market -not 100% on that thow)

refit gasket dry & use a little blue silastic (ultra-blue) for the half moons,
on the radius + the flat edge

[djmickyg]

yes u can do it that way. but the camshaft may be 180d out. as the cam shaft spins half the speed of the crank shaft. eg (cam shaft lines up with timing marks ones every 720d crank shaft every 360d.)

you should be able to see when the its on its compression stroke cus the valves in the 1st cyclinder wont be pressed.
but i think i will try ur way first, if that dont go to plan i will use something down the spark plug hole.
(not a screw driver like i was told cus that will scratch)

what are these half moon things? just so i know what im asking for

im new to the world of 4-stokes.. im used to working on rotaries and 2-strokes..
so all these valves and push rod things arnt where my knowlage is at

thanks heaps for ur help

[beebee]

yes u can do it that way. but the camshaft may be 180d out. as the cam shaft spins half the speed of the crank shaft. eg (cam shaft lines up with timing marks ones every 720d crank shaft every 360d.)


1x rocker cover gasket-genuine or repco etc

2x half moon seals (1 each end off head) genuine or repco etc

4x gromets (thay seal the rocker cover bolts) genuine only or repco
refit gasket dry & use a little blue silastic (ultra-blue) for the half moons,
on the radius + the flat edge

[beebee]

The half moons are a semicircular gaskit type thing that go at the front and rear of your head. They are there so that you can get to the bolt/nut on the end of the cam. So when you open up the hood, you'll see the front one in the middle of the front of the head and the rocker cover gaskit seals down onto it.

[djmickyg]

u must work for repco.

and thank you. ill get all that stuff asap

[toysuzi]

no it just saves typing auto 1/ super cheap/ peps / etc etc

there just a rubber seal-one at each end off head
you may get away with reusing urs if there not to hard.
just use extra ultra blue to make sure thay seal

[dumbdunce]

22R's are notoriously noisy in the top end, don't be afraid to take the clearances down an extra 0.04 - 0.06mm, ie if the book says 0.20mm take it down to say 0.15 - gives a tiny bit of extra duration on the camshaft and can quieten things down considerably.

also a good idea to adjust them, drive for 200 - 400km then check them again to make sure you got it right.


those were the good old days when you didn't need special tools and a bucket of shims to adjust valve clearances.

cheers

Brian

[Guy]

no it just saves typing auto 1/ super cheap/ peps / etc etc

there just a rubber seal-one at each end off head
you may get away with reusing urs if there not to hard.
just use extra ultra blue to make sure thay seal

Suopercreap are useless .. I was looking for some dieelectric grease the other day .. could not find any .. Asked the store manager ... she simply shrugged her shoulders and said "I duuno what is it ?.. I have axle grease !"

At least at repco they are well enough trained not to act as stoopud as they look ..

[djmickyg]

supercheap is like the bunnings for cars
alot of good things if only u could find em.

dumbdunce: adjusting the tapped too much wil cause the valve to sit a lil open when the engine is warm? is that how it works?

[dumbdunce]

supercheap is like the bunnings for cars
alot of good things if only u could find em.

dumbdunce: adjusting the tapped too much wil cause the valve to sit a lil open when the engine is warm? is that how it works?

sort of surprisingly, no - it's the opposite - especially on alloy head engines like the 22R the gap widens significantly as the engine warms up. one of the reasons manufacturers allow such a big valve lash gap (0.20 - 0.45mm is the sort of range you expect) is because the usual wear mode for valvetrains is for a little bit of valve seat recession, which makes the tappet gap smaller and smaller, until the valve won't close properly when the engine is cold, which makes it hard to start. that particular wear mode is prevalent in new and reconditioned engines/heads, and large gaps are appropriate for young engines to allow a reasonable service interval on the rocker adjusters. for an older engine, which is most 22R's on the road now, the valve seats are nice and wide and worn in and less likely to recess, but things like rockers, cam followers etc are more likely to wear, so as the engine gets older the gaps tend to increase rather than decrease. this is of course all highly generalised and you might find after 3 months some of your gaps have got bigger, some smaller. setting the gaps 10 - 25% tighter just gives you a quieter engine and is biasing the gap towards the wear and bedding in you're more likely to expect from an older engine.

if your gaps are too small (ie if they close up on you) you will experience very rough running, hard starting, shocking fuel economy and poor power. if they're too big you will probably get decent and smooth low end performance but the torque will drop off dramatically as the revs increase and the valvetrain noise will become deafening. like any adjustable part of the engine, the valve lash is tuneable to what you want from the engine, how old it is, how it sounds and feels to drive.

if you've got time to play, set them as close as you can to what it says in the book - it's harder than it looks to get it spot on every time - then play around with it - drive it, then adjust them all in say 1/8 - turn on the adjuster screws - if you measure the pitch on the adjuster screws you can work out how much you're changing the gap with each 1/8 turn so once you've set the gap at the factory spec that acts as a baseline and you don't need to measure again until you find a setting you're happy with - smooth running, minimum noise.

enjoy

Brian