whats what when it comes to the wranglers ???

[azwa]

as the title says , daughter is looking at buying a wrangler .
does anybody know which models are to be avoided & what probs to look out for ???
any info will be appreciated...

cheers azwa...

[DUDELUX]

And you are going to let her buy one??

[azwa]

you can see my sig tony ,
but she cant be told...

id rather be seen in an asia rocsta , atleast it'd be diesel...

[azwa]

& just trying to avoid her paying off a lemon.....

[GUtripper]

TJ's were made and sold here 97-06.
All have same diffs (Dana 44 rear, dana 30 front. Used hard offroad with 33's or bigger the D30 is marginal.)
all have the 4.0L six, earlier ones are distributor, later are coil pack, i think all are rated at about 125kw. Motors are understressed and will do 400,000 easy.

Early manuals have AX15 transmission which were prone to cracking 5th gear, but not all had this issue, and most would have been fixed by now anyway. Later had NV transmissions which had little issues. The last of the run here had a six speed manual, with mixed feedback.... a longer trans meant a shorter rear driveshaft, and some are prone to vibration etc.

Of the Auto's, the early ones are a 3 speed non electronic (other than converter lock up), later (ie better) are 4 speed.

All are disc front drum rear. A rear disc conversion is a very good upgrade.

Most issues relate to a lack of servicing and maintenence. Tailshafts have double cardan joints which can and will wear (are rebuildable, parts cost about $170 for 2x unis and 1x pin kit). Having locked hubs from factory, front tailshafts and driveline is turning all the time (even in 2wd) so a Warn front hub kit is a good idea.

Look for a clean 02-05 5 speed manual or auto. Interiors, seats and dash are all improved on the later models too. Make sure all zips etc on soft top work (common issue ), it drives and shifts without vibration. Get under it and give the tailshafts a shake to check for slop. Check service history.

Unlike your sig, ive never seen or even heard of a TJ burn. JK's and Grand Cherokees are a different story.

Get on http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com.au" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and have a look around.

[azwa]

cheers mate ,greatly appreciated...

[Wooders]

GUtripper's assessment on the TJ isn't too bad.
But if I might add a bit more info.
IMHO THE TJ D30 is a better unit than the JK D30. They are an underestimated diff with LOADS of upgrades available, they also offer great ground clearance. but if going bigger than 35"s with hard use is planned than a swap to a D60 size diff would be a better plan.
The AX5 (which we didn't get here) was far more likely to kill 5th, the AX-15 isn't a bad box, and parts are fairly readily available. The NV3550 is rated to higher torque - but too be honest we probably get asked for bit to suit them compared to the AX15. he later 6spd I don't rate personally.
Stock only the front tailshaft has a double cardan joint, the rear simply has single unis and a stupid slip yoke on the back of the transfer case. If it
is modded or planned I would strongly suggest investing in a SYE.
Technically they don't have hubs, but unit bearings, so the front is always engaged - However I do NOT recommend fitting a kit to swap to freewheeling hubs. Any decent brand of uni bearings should last 100-200k. The hub kits offer no increase in strength, and would take forever for the cost to redeem itself.

OP didn't specify what year, but IMHO the TJ would be a good choice and will probably be what my daughter will eventually get (in many years from now).

[flyinwall]

However I do NOT recommend fitting a kit to swap to freewheeling hubs. Any decent brand of uni bearings should last 100-200k. The hub kits offer no increase in strength, and would take forever for the cost to redeem itself.

the savings in fuel cost would be worth it wouldn't it (i know it was in my hilux surf)

[Wooders]

Spending 1200-1500 to gain a saving 1-2mpg ??
It will take a while to recoup that.
Sorry I stand solidly behind my opinion that they are simply not worth the money.

[GUtripper]

Would also save wear and tear on front axle uni's, tailshaft unis and cardan joint.
That was my thinking rather than milage. If you want to save fuel costs, but a prius

[CRUZAAMAD]

mates daughter had one.
not to flash on fuel, high 15's.

had the rear diff rebuilt cost a HEAP, as their realy a weird set up of sorts.

the engine, damn, her dad has this massive steep driveway, incline would have to be at least 30'deg.
most trucks cant get up the driveway its thats steep, talking of the medium MR and 3axle hr.
in my cruiser i have to use 1st.
the jeep does it easy in 2nd, not even revving it, love the torque!! its awesome.
sold it for around 6grand... or soo from memory.
motor is unreal.
wagons should be cheap as or near on par with the short version.

[GUtripper]

Rear Dana 44 is common as old poop..... Used in f trucks, chryslers, ramblers, even some Honda's in the US.
Nothing difficult or odd about it, maybe the diff guy saw you coming?

They aren't the most fuel efficient thing, 13's are about the best you'll get out of it. They are a bit like pushing a block of flats though with a big front area and near vertical screen. And turning both diffs all the time.

Yeah, xj's have the same engine, but normally about 10kw more. Except for the diesels, which are quite good WHEN they go. And suitable for the tip when they stop.
They are cheap as chips, and can make very capable 4wds, but have their own common faults, none of which are really that bad or difficult to correct.

[pleashy]

If its lifted check the suspension has had the correct supporting mods, have a look at all the bushes. If they've put carpet in them selves pull it up just a little to see how much beach work its had and if they have been cleaning it properly.

[Max_09]

Nice post!