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Spotlight Switch question
Moderator: -Scott-
Spotlight Switch question
Ok, I am having troubles with the switches I am using to wire up my spotties. They are the ones that light up one colour for off and another for on, (only when the highbeam is on).
Anyway, Their are four pins on the switch, 2 are for your standard spotlight set up, one wire to the highbeam wire on the loom and the other to the relay. Now where do I wire up the other two too? If I switch the wires for the spotlight to the other two pins I get the switch to light up and change colour, but not the spotlights. I tried splicing each wire to go to each side but it didnt work.
Whats the correct way to do it?
Anyway, Their are four pins on the switch, 2 are for your standard spotlight set up, one wire to the highbeam wire on the loom and the other to the relay. Now where do I wire up the other two too? If I switch the wires for the spotlight to the other two pins I get the switch to light up and change colour, but not the spotlights. I tried splicing each wire to go to each side but it didnt work.
Whats the correct way to do it?
MY JEEP BUILD
v840 wrote: [Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
Sorry Tonka, spent a few minutes thinking about it and I can't work out why the switch needs four contacts - I would've thought it could be done with three.
Have you tried checking conductivities with your multimeter? Are the lights bulbs or LEDs? Do you know how to check diodes with your multimeter (sorry if I'm teaching you how to suck eggs...)
In the setup where the spotlights work but not the coloured lights, have you tried reversing the two pin connections?
I'm about to go out to drink more beer
Good luck!
Scott
Have you tried checking conductivities with your multimeter? Are the lights bulbs or LEDs? Do you know how to check diodes with your multimeter (sorry if I'm teaching you how to suck eggs...)
In the setup where the spotlights work but not the coloured lights, have you tried reversing the two pin connections?
I'm about to go out to drink more beer
Good luck!
Scott
so this is a two position sawitch (on/off) or three (on/off/on)?
if second option then would have input to switch (from high beam) two outputs (or "ons" like for two different sets of lights (fog or spots)) and lastly ground (for little lights in switch)
should be able to work out terminals with multimeter, common to "on" terminal continuity (almost 0 ohms) and about 1 ohm for light.
does this make sense
if second option then would have input to switch (from high beam) two outputs (or "ons" like for two different sets of lights (fog or spots)) and lastly ground (for little lights in switch)
should be able to work out terminals with multimeter, common to "on" terminal continuity (almost 0 ohms) and about 1 ohm for light.
does this make sense
Its an on/off switch.
Looking at my diagram, I am thinking I run highbeam wire to both top top terminals on right hand side of pic (to give power for the lights within the switch and perhaps an earth on the second green terminal....
Looking at my diagram, I am thinking I run highbeam wire to both top top terminals on right hand side of pic (to give power for the lights within the switch and perhaps an earth on the second green terminal....
MY JEEP BUILD
v840 wrote: [Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
As for my level of electrics.. I know kinda how it all works and how a multimeter works, but not sure what should be giving what reading. I know the switch works, as it operates the spotlights and also when wired the other way, operates the lights within the switch.
Just want em both to work, thinking my above suggestion with the earth may work?
Just want em both to work, thinking my above suggestion with the earth may work?
MY JEEP BUILD
v840 wrote: [Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
got any good pics of switch? and other sides if any other writing
thinks it says:
on (red) off (green?)
part no i guess
12v 30a and what looks like diagram for internal light
so, i think wire switch to purple connectors, then earth/12v to green connectors
select continuity (or lowest ohm setting) put one lead to top left terminal. next lead to top right terminal (two purples). turn switch on and off. should get continuity when on and nothing when off (this if is right set of terminals which seems likely). then measure from top left to each bottom terminal, then from top left to each bottom terminal. thinking this is two lamps so should give small ohm reading
thinks it says:
on (red) off (green?)
part no i guess
12v 30a and what looks like diagram for internal light
so, i think wire switch to purple connectors, then earth/12v to green connectors
As for my level of electrics.. I know kinda how it all works and how a multimeter works, but not sure what should be giving what reading.
select continuity (or lowest ohm setting) put one lead to top left terminal. next lead to top right terminal (two purples). turn switch on and off. should get continuity when on and nothing when off (this if is right set of terminals which seems likely). then measure from top left to each bottom terminal, then from top left to each bottom terminal. thinking this is two lamps so should give small ohm reading
My Switch........
Have to cut and paste this into browser:
http://www.sci.com.tw/htm/AUTO%20ACCESSORIES/(R13)%20Car%20Switch/(R13)%20TOGGLE/R13-403.htm
Nothing else written on it.
Have to cut and paste this into browser:
http://www.sci.com.tw/htm/AUTO%20ACCESSORIES/(R13)%20Car%20Switch/(R13)%20TOGGLE/R13-403.htm
Nothing else written on it.
MY JEEP BUILD
v840 wrote: [Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
diagram
From the way you say the switch works, i.e. illuminate in different colors under load and off load, the internal wiring diagram should be something like this, depending on whether the manufacturer uses LED-technology or simple lightbulbs. This is the LED-version.
The point here is that terminal A should be connected to the main power-source for the accessory in question. Terminal B should provide power for the accessory itself. Terminal C Shgould be connected to ground and terminal D should be connected to switched power to illuminate in off-position.
Which one of the terminals on your switch compares to the terminals in the diagram, is impossible for me to say unless seing the manufacturers diagram or terminal specifications.
But you've obviously found the two terminals compared to terminal A and B, and the two remaining should compare to C and D.
Connect the two red (in your picture) terminals, switch the spots on, and measure the voltage from each of the two other terminals to ground. If only one of them has positive voltage, this should be the ground connector. If both of them has positive voltage, this could be a lightbulb version, and then you have to test with a piece of wire from each terminal to ground, and the one giving the brightest light, is the ground connection.
Unfortunately this test-and -find-out method could cause damage to the switch, so the best way would be to have the original wiring specs or terminal specs.
The point here is that terminal A should be connected to the main power-source for the accessory in question. Terminal B should provide power for the accessory itself. Terminal C Shgould be connected to ground and terminal D should be connected to switched power to illuminate in off-position.
Which one of the terminals on your switch compares to the terminals in the diagram, is impossible for me to say unless seing the manufacturers diagram or terminal specifications.
But you've obviously found the two terminals compared to terminal A and B, and the two remaining should compare to C and D.
Connect the two red (in your picture) terminals, switch the spots on, and measure the voltage from each of the two other terminals to ground. If only one of them has positive voltage, this should be the ground connector. If both of them has positive voltage, this could be a lightbulb version, and then you have to test with a piece of wire from each terminal to ground, and the one giving the brightest light, is the ground connection.
Unfortunately this test-and -find-out method could cause damage to the switch, so the best way would be to have the original wiring specs or terminal specs.
totto
Got it all sorted!
Run HighBeam wire to top two points.
Run purple point back to relay, run green point to earth.
Run HighBeam wire to top two points.
Run purple point back to relay, run green point to earth.
MY JEEP BUILD
v840 wrote: [Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
MY JEEP BUILD
v840 wrote: [Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
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