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Brake and Clutch pedal boxs offroad racing
Brake and Clutch pedal boxs offroad racing
Has anyone fitted a wilwood or tilton pedal box to a gu patrol without using a vacuum booster. It’s for my comp truck as I now don’t have room under the bonnet and also don't want to run a booster if possible. I wood also like to fit remote reservoirs and twin ciruit. Any info on pedal ratio and piston size would be graet as well.
Re: Brake and Clutch pedal boxs offroad racing
As someone who races a patrol, and is sponsored by a Brake company, I run the standard master cylinder arrangement with a manual bias valve. I set the bias up in reconissance in 2wd, then leave it alone.
It's a BIG heavy car with large diameter wheels without much disc area, you NEED the boosting.
You could run a couple of inline boosters, but they have a habit of splitting diaphragms. Not reliable enough because if you lose front booster you cook your rear brakes working them too hard. not worth it and quite expensive for no benefit.
Fancy brake bias adjustment beyond what I have said above is completely and utterly useless in a 4wd, you have no centre diff. your front and rear tailshafts turn at the same speed no matter what.
You could completely disconnect the rear brakes and not notice anything except the fact the brakes will fade sooner. This is because your front wheels will brake your rears through the drivetrain. you only need enough balance so that you are not overheating either the fronts or the rears.
If you need the room in the engine bay what you can do is put your master cylinder and booster inside, use a second pedal box assembly upside down with most of the pedals cut off, then a linkage between the two pedal boxes in the right places to maintain the same pedal ratio.
It's a BIG heavy car with large diameter wheels without much disc area, you NEED the boosting.
You could run a couple of inline boosters, but they have a habit of splitting diaphragms. Not reliable enough because if you lose front booster you cook your rear brakes working them too hard. not worth it and quite expensive for no benefit.
Fancy brake bias adjustment beyond what I have said above is completely and utterly useless in a 4wd, you have no centre diff. your front and rear tailshafts turn at the same speed no matter what.
You could completely disconnect the rear brakes and not notice anything except the fact the brakes will fade sooner. This is because your front wheels will brake your rears through the drivetrain. you only need enough balance so that you are not overheating either the fronts or the rears.
If you need the room in the engine bay what you can do is put your master cylinder and booster inside, use a second pedal box assembly upside down with most of the pedals cut off, then a linkage between the two pedal boxes in the right places to maintain the same pedal ratio.
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