Advice on TJ mods

[91Mav]

G'day Jeepers,

I'm new to Jeeps and have searched so please don't flame.

I'm looking at getting a TJ in the next couple of weeks. I'm looking to go a 2" spring lift with longer shocks, a 1" BL, some flat fender flares and 33's.
A few questions:
-Should I re-position the shocks on the chassis or axle to get a longer shock in? If so, where? I only want to go a small spring lift to keep the short arms on decent angles. I plan on relocated the panhard rod (or track bar in Jeep talk?) to get it flat.
-Can you make high steer arms on the standard swivel hubs or is a dropped pitman arm the way to go to get a flat tie rod?
-Are chromoly axles ok with only 33's? I know people might say run Patrol or Cruiser axles - they are being considered. I do like the idea of the better ground clearance of a D30 with upgraded unis/axles, C-gussets, Grizzly locker and 4.1's if it will hold up to some mild abuse.
-Does the rear D44 come with an LSD standard? If so, are they any good? Any advice on streetable traction aids for the rear?
-I'm told Yellow-Stuff pads or Black Magic pads are alright for 33's???

Appreciate any help or other advice along the way.

Cheers fellas

[GUtripper]

There will be no need to re-position shocks with a 2" SL.
I would definitely fit sway bar disconnects though, as the front sway bar, if connected, will severely limit your flex/travel.
Wooders Garage in Hornsby NSW is a good source of bits and knowledge. that said, their are a number of Jeep specialist places about. Careful of just bolting in any old set of springs and shocks though.

If not already done, you will most likely need a SYE (slip yoke eliminator) kit due to the short rear tailshaft and the likelihood of vibration due to the increased angle after the lift is fitted.

Yes, the rear diff has a LSD, and no, its not the best out there, but adjusted correctly and serviced (ie oil changes etc) its not too bad. Combined with a front locker it will perform very well offroad. Add in the lift and increased flex, plus the fact that a TJ is a good ton lighter than most 4wd wagons means it will surprise you where it goes. If upgrading, air lockers are really the best on a street driven TJ.

With 33's, your diffs will do OK. The front D30 will need regular checking, particularly the open knuckle unis which are a weak point, but don't drive it like a clown (ie front wheels in the air and land with full throttle)and they'll last OK.

I wouldnt bother with GQ diffs, for the expense and loss of ground clearance and weight they aren't worth it unless going bigger that 35's.

BTW, you dont mention if its auto or manual- either way with 33's your gearing will suffer, although Auto's are a bit shorter in ratios standard so will cope a touch better. Oops just re-read your post, 4.1's should do the trick.

Cro-mo axles are an improvement, but I would wait till you pop a stock one.
For hi-steer, you would need to replace the outer C's with Reid Racing or similar hi-steer items. But that said, for most offroad work its not required.
http://www.reidracing.biz/off-road-prod ... p-knuckles" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I would definitely invest in a set of diff covers, ie ARB
http://www.arb.com.au/products/arb-air- ... ff-covers/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

BTW, get on http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com.au" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

cheers

[91Mav]

Thanks for the advice mate.

Any advice on the 2" lift? OME seems to have a good reputation, they quoted me $1,370 for coils, shocks and steering dampener - not bad if they're that good. I can have King or Dobbinson springs and Bilsteins for less than a grand though? The 2" lifted shocks only have about 8" travel. Wouldnt 10" shocks relocated be better or is 8" really enough?

Thanks again!

[GUtripper]

I've known a few with the ome 2" kit.
Think of it like a 2" pootrol or cruiser kit. Will probably ride better than stock, flex better, and allow bigger rubber. It won't turn it into a race truck or had core crawler though.
It could be further benefitted by front sway bar disconnects, which will dramatically improve front axle articulation. The rear, don't bother.
You MAY find, even with a 2" lift you may need a SYE ( short shaft/slip yoke eliminator) due to the already short rear tailshaft and the resulting tailshaft angle. As I said in previous post above.