Pajero dealer troubles

[Spartacus]

I'm currently having issues with surging coming from
My 2006 ns pajero.

The dealer is trying to tell me my battery is at 1/3 is CCA and
that is effecting my computer and not providing fault codes.
Therefore fixing my problem

It sounds super suspect given a google of pajero surge gives a
Pretty good indication of what the problem could be.

Im not a mechanic , so I can't call him on bullshit.

[SCANAS]

Get the battery tested for free and see what they say

[date]

You don't say if your Pajero is diesel or petrol. A lot of modern day electronics require at least 10 Volts in order to operate correctly, if at all. If your battery is on the way out, this could be a problem, but normally the ECU throws up all sorts of stray codes rather than none. A petrol vehicle would be more susceptible to mucking up with low voltage than a diesel.

If you can get your vehicle started, check the voltage when it is running with a voltmeter. It should be about 13.4 - 13.6 volts, maybe even higher.

[awill4x4]

Get all the info you need on the Pajero club forum.
http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/
Assuming your NS is diesel it usually has 3 possible issues.
1: inlet manifold full of crud from the EGR system, see pics below.
The only remedy is to remove the inlet manifold and physically clean all the crud out.
2: Map sensor hose from inlet manifold to Map sensor blocked and Map sensor port in inlet manifold blocked again with EGR crud.
3: Suction Control Valve on the fuel pump malfunction, remedy buy a new one and install.
Regards Andrew.

[Spartacus]

Apologies it its a 3.2 diesel.

They admitted that there is a Problem since we sent a video
To them but aren't goin to fix it because the problem is intermittent
And doesn't bring up fault codes... Hence the new battery.

I believe it is more serious than a battery running full volts and 1/2 CCA.

[Struth]

If your battery is stuffed it needs replacing anyway so give it a go first. Get the battery tested before hand though.

If the problem still persists then take it back to them.

Even with battery on 1/2 cca though the alternator should provide enough volts and amps to properly run the car once started.

[turps]

My TD5 disco was happy to run with a battery with a blown cell. Was only reading 9.6v after coming off the charger. Once jump started the ALT was keeping the system at 14v so I could get home and buy a new one.
Col Cranking Amps of a battery are really only important when it comes to starting. Once its running the only thing pulling enough amps for you to give a shit about CCA is if you are winching.

[date]

The turbo is, I believe, a variable vane thingy which controls the inlet vanes via a servomotor. If you have a lot of gunk (as shown in the photos above), this could cause issues as the load changes, there would be a large delay with the turbo finally catching up to the load demand and then overshooting - surge. A major cleanout may be in order.