I have autron guages that I'm pretty sure has a switch wire that comes on when your preset max egts are reached.
My question. Could you use that wire to control a two stage boost controller to limit boost pressure to the boost compensator? In turn reducing fuel and egts?
If this is possible, could there be any downsides? Damage to anaroid? restriction of airfol on the high boost setting?
I just want to make it foolproof so I can focus on the road more than the egt guage on a hot day, towing and passing a road train.
Egts have no real sign of peaking at 550-575deg post turbo.
Gu td42
Dc swaffie 12mm pump
Ufi 18g @ 24psi
Not dynoed coz I live a bit remote.
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bleeding off boost to anaroid.
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bleeding off boost to anaroid.
GU td42 ute with go fast bits and go futher bits
Re: bleeding off boost to anaroid.
You can buy electronic boost controllers that do all that for ya.
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Re: bleeding off boost to anaroid.
huh?
Electronic boost controllers that register EGT's are getting high and ramp fuel down via the boost compensator?
Electronic boost controllers that register EGT's are getting high and ramp fuel down via the boost compensator?
GU td42 ute with go fast bits and go futher bits
Re: bleeding off boost to anaroid.
Yes,
Yes,
No apart from a sudden loss of power feeling if you overdo the low-pressure setting and perhaps if you rely on it you may still cook the engine in the time it takes to register the high EGT if you hit it repeatedly,
no,
no there is no flow it's just pressure applying force to a diaphragm so you should place your control valve close to the aneroid to minimise the "lag" from the volume of air it has to push through the restrictor/bleed.
The most entirely foolproof way is to put a big red light on it, and each time the light comes on you back the fuelling off slightly until it doesn't come on any more.
Yes,
No apart from a sudden loss of power feeling if you overdo the low-pressure setting and perhaps if you rely on it you may still cook the engine in the time it takes to register the high EGT if you hit it repeatedly,
no,
no there is no flow it's just pressure applying force to a diaphragm so you should place your control valve close to the aneroid to minimise the "lag" from the volume of air it has to push through the restrictor/bleed.
The most entirely foolproof way is to put a big red light on it, and each time the light comes on you back the fuelling off slightly until it doesn't come on any more.
Re: bleeding off boost to anaroid.
Thanks for that. Tips like placing the bleed close to the compensator was what I was after.
My gauge turns red and starts beeping when it gets to 500 deg. I just want the extra safety barrier of starving the aneriod at the same point or about 25 deg earlier.
The pressure it cuts to would have to be played with to find the desired effect of course.
I realize each pump builder is different but in general, how much of the fuel is the aneroid responsible for at WOT, full wastegate?
Is there any problems that could arise from taking the hose off the aneroid and going for a drive to see?
My gauge turns red and starts beeping when it gets to 500 deg. I just want the extra safety barrier of starving the aneriod at the same point or about 25 deg earlier.
The pressure it cuts to would have to be played with to find the desired effect of course.
I realize each pump builder is different but in general, how much of the fuel is the aneroid responsible for at WOT, full wastegate?
Is there any problems that could arise from taking the hose off the aneroid and going for a drive to see?
GU td42 ute with go fast bits and go futher bits
Re: bleeding off boost to anaroid.
No harm taking the hose off, but it will be very gutless. It'll run lean and cold.
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