2" body vs 4" suspension

[GURU]

G'day all,

I really need to lift my RR another 2" (currently has a 2" coil lift). what would be better, 2" body and lift the front and rear barwork up 2" or do a 4" spring lift. I can make new rear traling arms etc to get geometry back to stock.

what do you guys recon? I'm mainly concerned about clerance over terrains, not fitting big tyres

[lowbox]

I'm mainly concerned about clerance over terrains, not fitting big tyres

Fitting bigger tyres give you clearance over terrain, otherwise your diffs are the same low, scaping on every rock, getting stuck height they used to be before you lifted the truck.

Don't waste your money, fit bigger tyres, then a 2" bodylift.

[GRIMACE]

If you want better clearance alround do the 2" body lift and get 4" larger diameter tyres.

This will basically lift all the underneath 2" higher and the body will be sitting 4" higher than it is right now


EDIT: sorry forgot to mention - just remember when fitting larger rubber you might break more shit, hang on did i say might, i mean you will break more shit and your gearing will go all out of whack

anthony

[Aquarangie]

2 inch body lift is the better and much cheaper option. Lifting your driverline can incur all soetrs of unwanted behavoiur, especially on-road!!

Persoanlly, I would never lift a Rangie more than 30-35mm ioin the springs. I can see why most people lift there Rangies thigher to fir laergger tyres (say 35's and the like), but since I never will be fitting these size tyres, I'll stick with what I have.

I just find that anyhting over 2 inches is too much pissing about with driveline and steering components and I don't have the patience to be doing this full stop!!!

Don't let me deter you though. Good luck if you decide to go the 4 inch lift.

Trav

[GURU]

Okay guys

RR has 255/85 R 16's (approx 33.5" x 9.5"), also have a set of 35's sitting here to go on possible. Gearing is fixed with 4.1's and looking to lockers and maxi axles at the moment. currently has a 2" spring lift, castor is at - 0 degrees and 22 mintues, so I will be slotting the front swivels to correct that.

So I want more rear overhang clerance and side sill clearance.

[GRIMACE]

sell the 33 and 35" rubber
Buy some 36" simex centipedes and a two inch body lift


Or just do a two inch body lift and fit the 35s when offroad drive carfully.................very carefully

[RaginRover]

Make sure your shocks have adequate travel to accommodate the new ride hight, check you bump stops to make sure you won't have the tyre rubbing on the bottom of the wheel wells.

I spent some time pulling bits of a rolled 97 disco the other day which
had brand new 32" MTRs on it, and a 2" coil lift while running stock shocks. The shocks were practically bottomed out at normal ride hight, this had ultimately caused the roll.

Be careful out there, you should probably look at fitting 80 series shocks now and gain the benefit of the extra travel.

Tom

[derangedrover]

How the hell are you running 255's without any bodylift? They must rub big time in the rear wheel wells!

You could always bob it, tub it, add some sliders and the 35's and go nuts?

After lifting my rangie for 35's, 2" bl, 3+" sus and revised bumpstops, i'd say leave it as low as possible and find other solutions for rubber and rock clearance.

Cheers
Daryl

[GRIMACE]

I am running 255/85s on my rr with the standard rims and no body lift, no rubbing on the wheel wells............ alittle on the spring perch and front shock turret....... but not much.

EDIT: but i forgot to mention i have lost about 2" of uptravel, as I rather gain the extra down travel and no scrub over having wheels lift of the ground and major scrubbing........ so far its worked quiet wheel for me... probably abit to much spring lift but hey it works all i need now is to sort out the strength issues in the driveline