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Cutting Alloy profiles

General Tech Talk

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Cutting Alloy profiles

Post by bru21 »

Hi All,

I need to ACCURATELY cut Powdercoated alloy profiles for our campers.

The extrusion guys recommended a compound miter saw with plenty of teeth - but I would rather something quieter, with better clamping.
I have a Milwaukee 12" slide here I can use should I get desperate. I can make a steel jig to hold / clamp the profile during cutting.

The extrusion is 76 x76mm made up of multiple webs and edges, and is all 3mm throughout.

All cuts will be miters at different angles and this needs to be repeatable and accurate (length of profile and angle).

What is used in the industry? Brobo with higher speed?

Something like this?
http://www.lunamachinery.com.au/index.p ... -mitre-saw" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cheers bru
ADHD Racing would like to thank
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Re: Cutting Alloy profiles

Post by brando4x4 »

At work we use just a 2 speed brobo for all our steel and alloy it seems to cut both pretty good
we just put it on the higher speed for alloy
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Re: Cutting Alloy profiles

Post by Ice »

and a blade for non ferrous :)
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Re: Cutting Alloy profiles

Post by MARKx4 »

This style at a minimum for good amount of work. There are better quality saws on this page but this style Is the minimum
http://www.machines4u.com.au/view/adver ... rope/1362/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: Cutting Alloy profiles

Post by AFeral »

I've always used a timber style drop saw with an aluminum blade works fine for me.
Surpose if you wanted to go real flash you could water jet cut it there is a place on the coast.
Anything is possible, it just comes down to time and money.
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Re: Cutting Alloy profiles

Post by bru21 »

MARKx4 wrote:This style at a minimum for good amount of work. There are better quality saws on this page but this style Is the minimum
http://www.machines4u.com.au/view/adver ... rope/1362/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Sweet that is the same saw I had in mind. I called Luna Yesterday and they have stock in Bris - I'll have a look when I'm down next.

Cheers bru
ADHD Racing would like to thank
Mrs Bru @ Sunshine Coast Developmental Physiotherapy - www.scdphysio.com.au , Ryano @ Fourbys www.generaltire.com.au Blitzkrieg Motorsport
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Re: Cutting Alloy profiles

Post by Shadow »

I've cut alot of alloy extrusings on a normal drop saw, just make sure blade is high tooth count (finishing or fixout blade) and go slow.

Cladding extrusings have many shapes etc and ive never really had a problem.

very accurate and only grabs if you try to cut too fast.

You can get the specific metal blades for it too but ive never had a problem using a fixout blade.
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Re: Cutting Alloy profiles

Post by MARKx4 »

Shadow wrote:I've cut alot of alloy extrusings on a normal drop saw, just make sure blade is high tooth count (finishing or fixout blade) and go slow.

Cladding extrusings have many shapes etc and ive never really had a problem.

very accurate and only grabs if you try to cut too fast.

You can get the specific metal blades for it too but ive never had a problem using a fixout blade.
Too cut extrusion clean constantly for a professional selling quality finish which i imagine Bru is looking for you will require more then a drop saw with a metal blade with a lot of teeth. I used to cut profiles and do aluminium high profile joinery for 8 years and have used some of the best saws in the industry and the saw i linked too is the minimum i would go, not necessarily talking about the brand but the type of saw.

Mark.
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Re: Cutting Alloy profiles

Post by 80's_delirious »

As a chippy, I've used a ordinary drop saw with a high quality non-ferrous blade to cut all sorts if extrusions. To cut anything over 2mm thick they start to struggle, the blade will wander a bit, you have to cut through slowly to avoid grabbing on fins of its a complex extrusion and finish of the cut is ok, not excellent
Also, if cutting mitres, a radial arm (sliding) type mitre saw will flex and wander as the blade tries to cut through fins in the extrusion. Just like a 4x4 will crawl sideways as you attempt to drive up an angled rock ledge

If you have a drop saw already, do a couple of test cuts to satisfy yourself.
If it has a timber cutting blade, cut through very slowly. A timber blade will wander more, but will give a good indication.
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Re: Cutting Alloy profiles

Post by slosh »

Probably not in your league of accuracy, but for small jobs I have used a jig saw or angle grinder, and wipe candle wax over the blade every few cms.
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Re: Cutting Alloy profiles

Post by bru21 »

Is there anything wrong with a higher speed Brobo? The alu cutting ones?

There is one getting around cheap.
I could add my own coolant mist and pneumatic clamps,

http://www.shawmachinery.com.au/aluminiumsaws.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

There is also this omga for similar money to the luna one
http://www.shawmachinery.com.au/aluminiumsaws.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

cheers bru
ADHD Racing would like to thank
Mrs Bru @ Sunshine Coast Developmental Physiotherapy - www.scdphysio.com.au , Ryano @ Fourbys www.generaltire.com.au Blitzkrieg Motorsport
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Re: Cutting Alloy profiles

Post by MARKx4 »

I have never used the high speed Brobo so i cant comment. As for the Omega there is no problem with it, anything Italian made when it comes to this type of machinery is the best. As i have said earlier the style most commonly used for profile cutting is similar to the Omega you posted (many of brands i have used but all Italian made). I would imagine the high speed saw would be for solid profiles and industrial work by the look of the build.

Keep a eye out for window manufactures equipment at liquidation sales as the use these saws all the time and normally have more then one.

Choice of saw comes down to amount of use you want in the long run, quality of cut and the finish on the metal you are using.

Mark.
Its not cool, unless it's got boost :)
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