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P38a - Upgrade axle's or cross fingers?

Tech Talk for Rover owners.

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P38a - Upgrade axle's or cross fingers?

Post by Hardy »

Hi all,

I'm about to fit 4.1 R&P's into my '99 RR, so I can run 33's.

I've decided to go the rear locker afterall, while all is pulled apart.
ARB may be the go as I can't really afford* the Maxi Drives (P38a is $2440 inc)
I realise MD include axles as part of the deal.
(*R&P's,Tyres,Locker,Installation - buy all at once, adds up pretty quick!)

For what offroading I do I think the ARB centre will be fine, but my concern is the axles.
Should I upgrade to Maxi axles on the rear or take it easy and hope for the best?
Should I upgrade front axles too? (no locker)

Again, I'm not a redneck hoon offroad but I don't think I could cope with a broken axle out in the scrub.

Any advice appreciated.

Regards,
Hardy

PS - I imported 2 sets of P38 GBR 4.1 R&P's from the US.
One for me, one for whoever's got $1700
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Post by RaginRover »

24 splines on the p38 should be ok if you only use the locker when you get stuck and try to avoid bouncing the car and shock loading the axles.

PM DiscoDino, I think he is running 35s and 24 splines with a locker maybe he can give you advice

Regards
Tom
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Post by HSV Rangie »

Fit the ARB with stock axles upgrade when you can to maxi axles.

Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
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Post by Hardy »

Thanks fellas, I think I've heard what I wanted to hear.

My biggest concern was not snapping axle in the bush, but being able to remove it and still have a rolling hub. Apparently this can be done (I'll will look into this) and will obviously be the cue to upgrade.

Thanks again,
Hardy
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Location: Tumut NSW

Post by DFND90 »

From what i understand, to isolate the broken axle you remove the axle flange from the wheel and then remove the front or rear prop shaft(depending on which axle you broke) to isolate the differential. You should be able to limp home like this.

This reduces further damage by isolating the broken axle completely.
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Post by Hardy »

Yep, taht was my understanding too. I thought it was to do with having fully or semi floating axles - whatever. But yip, I'm told it can be done.

I'll make a point of having my mechanic show me how to do this while he's fiddling with the other bits.
Sort out what tools required too, be all prepared for something I hope doesn't happen....

Hardy
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Post by DiscoDino »

Hardy,
Tom is right, I'm on 24 stockers in the rear for the past 9 months on 35s (previously on 32s)...did the 24 swap when I got the rear ARB.
Have already broken 1 rear (short). Given the hell I let go on the truck, and with the modest 3.5 V8i, I think that is a great record (key is my truck's ass is light...).
If you are concerned with breaking, it WILL occur (32s never with me), if you are concerned with fixing/mending in the bush, real easy:
take both axles out (rear), get a magnet from the broken hend, and a 4mm 1.2m rod from the other and poke the broken part of the axle with it (a small blow with a hammer will do) then reinstall "good" axle with your spare.
LR Disco truggy:
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
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Post by Hardy »

Cool Dino, thanks.

So you say you've done allright on 35's?
Do you still have std axles?
What were you doing when you broke axle?
What do you mean by 'light ass' ?
(Extra springy or not much cargo?)

Regards,
Hardy
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Location: Sydney

Post by GURU »

well I think i have heard what I wanted to here too...I will fit an ARB to the rear and run stock axles till I can afford maxi's

One question though, people say ARB's aren't as strong as maxi drives, but ARB's are apparently the strongest locking diff used around the world, I haven't heard of people breaking them....so whats the go ??
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Post by Hardy »

Ohhh, I think they're strong enough, just maybe not as strong as Maxi's.
But how stong do they have to be?

I was talking to my local ARB proprietor - in one breath he said:
"On no, oversize tyres and competition work will void warranty, but we may turn a blind eye to that"
Next breath was:
"Chucking line-lockies in my 400ci Shorty all the time, no worries"
I assumed he was talking about leaving licorice on bitumen....
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Post by DiscoDino »

Answers

So you say you've done allright on 35's?
Yes, for a steady driver and a small budget, its good enough

Do you still have std axles?
Now yes. I'm going Jac Mac with 1.31" axles and Toy centers in a month or so.

What were you doing when you broke axle?
Was trying to cross a 1.5m ditch and had ALL the weight on that one tire. Front Unlocked which does NOT help in this situation.

What do you mean by 'light ass' ? (Extra springy or not much cargo?)
No rear seats, no padding, LOTS of cutting, all spares/cargo low in rear footwells...should be at 2T loaded.
LR Disco truggy:
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
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