Hello all
Just purchased the above as std ie no mods. I'd like to buy some steel rims and offroad tyres. Don't really want to spend buckets, but want a vehicle capable of reasonable offroad performance. Currently running 235/60 R16's on alloys on nice looking road tyres. Would be useless on anything other than bitumen.
Want to be able to go camping in the high country and some day trips with other sane people ie nothing gung ho. Suggestions? Interested in doing things in stages ie tyres, suspension, traction aids.
The info I've received suggests 225/70 R16 will only fit with a lift. Like to hear from anyone with a similar vehicle who's considered or performed this/these.
How do these critters go without an LSD or diff lock?
Thanks
Mike
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2000 Grand Vitara V6 4 door modifications
There's a couple of guys I go out 4bying with later V6's and GV's.
There's a 2003 model GV who's not frightened of panel damage and he's running 215/80/16 MT's from memory - about 29" worth of muddy, at least until his Calmini 3" suspension lift gets here.
With a bit of lift 30"s and 31"s are possible without major mutation, but probably overkill for your requirements.
On that sort of vehicle it's worth paying for an ARB airlocker for the back too.
There's a 2003 model GV who's not frightened of panel damage and he's running 215/80/16 MT's from memory - about 29" worth of muddy, at least until his Calmini 3" suspension lift gets here.
With a bit of lift 30"s and 31"s are possible without major mutation, but probably overkill for your requirements.
On that sort of vehicle it's worth paying for an ARB airlocker for the back too.
Yeah as Viagra says, 30's are possible without major mods. Tyres make a a huge difference.. Lockers make a BIGGER one ! Me mate with the 03 GV has just blown his front Diff (no lockers.. yet) but he drives it hard and well ! He drove mine with lockers and reckons I have cost him a lot of money... He's off buying lockers now !! (eh Jeff !!) way to go..
Then there is suspension.. lots of stuff you can do there, especially the rear .. and that make a very big difference..
I havent gone bigger than 225/75 yet and have got thru most stuff, although I will probably get some bigger mud tyres ones day..
Then there is suspension.. lots of stuff you can do there, especially the rear .. and that make a very big difference..
I havent gone bigger than 225/75 yet and have got thru most stuff, although I will probably get some bigger mud tyres ones day..
05 Patrol GU ST Ute
3" lift, 3" exhaust, custom Garrett BB Turbo and top mount.. and electric mirrors !
3" lift, 3" exhaust, custom Garrett BB Turbo and top mount.. and electric mirrors !
we have a few gv's and vits modded in our club, may be worth asking on our group, too. also thrown in some other useful info..
Suzuki 4WD Club of Victoria
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Suzuki 4WD Club of Victoria
OUR FORUM
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Suzuki_4WD_Club/
OUR WEB SITE
http://www.suzuki-4wd-club.rockcrawler.com/
OTHER USEFUL FORUMS WE USE
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USEFUL MELBOURNE PHONE NUMBERS
Susuki Carbusters 9318 9400
Suzi Auto Recyclers 9543 1688
Suziworld 9459 8703
Suzukiparts Recyclers 9274 4477
Suzy City 9580 0262
4play 9761 4694
eastland suzuki 9876 0775
total 4wd epping 9401 4875
OUR MEETINGS
AMRA hall, Wills St Glen Iris, opposite railway station. 2nd Wednesday of each month, except January. 7:30pm. All welcome.
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Mike,
If I were you, I'd go suspension before tyres. It will not only lift the GV up (and they are way too low), it will also make it ride/handle a heap nicer on road, and flex up better off. Suspension was the first mod I did on my GV, and while it rides a bit stiffer, it handles markedly better, and at crawling speeds is much less rough.
I put tyres on after suspension, and while I could have fitted 30s, I ended up sticking with 235/75r15s (just over 29"). 30s will require a bodylift to stop scrubbing, and also a minor bit of guard trimming, plus you'll prob have to move the front bumper forward a bit (or trim if you wish). You simply won't fit 31s without some big chopping. The 235s went on to my 5.5" standard steelies no probs. The other thing is that with 30s, your turning circle will be reduced a bit as they'll foul on the chassis on full lock (unless you mod the stops). The 235s still foul a touch at full lock, but I can live with it.
I put LWB springs on my SWB, so all up I got 65mm lift. Add another inch with the bigger tyres, and the chassis now sits 3.5" higher. That gives me more clearance than a standard Prado/Pajero (and more under the diffs too!). Plus because we're so short, rampover rocks!
I don't want to stop modding my little Vit yet tho. Unfortunately all the bullbars out there are useless, so I'd love to get a tube front (anyone out there skillful with a bender?) and of course lockers would be nice too.
Lots of "hardcore" wheelers don't think much of IFS rigs, and while they are limited compared with their solid cousins, I still get as much of a buzz (maybe moreso) getting up some fairly tough trails in my IFS Vit as I do getting up some really tough trails in my old mans locked 80 series. It makes you feel more skillful as a driver 
Oh, one other thing - the recovery points on the GVs look a bit suss to me.
Get a towbar. And I haven't figured out what to do about the front - maybe get a tube bar 
If I were you, I'd go suspension before tyres. It will not only lift the GV up (and they are way too low), it will also make it ride/handle a heap nicer on road, and flex up better off. Suspension was the first mod I did on my GV, and while it rides a bit stiffer, it handles markedly better, and at crawling speeds is much less rough.
I put tyres on after suspension, and while I could have fitted 30s, I ended up sticking with 235/75r15s (just over 29"). 30s will require a bodylift to stop scrubbing, and also a minor bit of guard trimming, plus you'll prob have to move the front bumper forward a bit (or trim if you wish). You simply won't fit 31s without some big chopping. The 235s went on to my 5.5" standard steelies no probs. The other thing is that with 30s, your turning circle will be reduced a bit as they'll foul on the chassis on full lock (unless you mod the stops). The 235s still foul a touch at full lock, but I can live with it.
I put LWB springs on my SWB, so all up I got 65mm lift. Add another inch with the bigger tyres, and the chassis now sits 3.5" higher. That gives me more clearance than a standard Prado/Pajero (and more under the diffs too!). Plus because we're so short, rampover rocks!
I don't want to stop modding my little Vit yet tho. Unfortunately all the bullbars out there are useless, so I'd love to get a tube front (anyone out there skillful with a bender?) and of course lockers would be nice too.
Lots of "hardcore" wheelers don't think much of IFS rigs, and while they are limited compared with their solid cousins, I still get as much of a buzz (maybe moreso) getting up some fairly tough trails in my IFS Vit as I do getting up some really tough trails in my old mans locked 80 series. It makes you feel more skillful as a driver
Oh, one other thing - the recovery points on the GVs look a bit suss to me.
Get a towbar. And I haven't figured out what to do about the front - maybe get a tube bar 
After trying different things on my GV I ending up with the following; King Springs allround, 15mm spring spacer front, 30mm spring spacer rear, OME Struts, Rancho 9000x (9117) Shocks, Sliverstone MT-117 EX 215/75R16 Tyres, front diff bash plate.
Very happy with the results, Make sure that if you do lift the front only use OME stuts these are the only struts that are 40mm longer. I killed the stock struts in about a week, and some Dobson stuts (about 5mm longer) in 2 weeks, the OME have been going strong for a few months now.
If you do go to a bigger and better tyre say goodbye to any waranty on your front diff. I just stuffed mine, because the tyres don't slip as much as the stock tyres the load ends up on the shift-on-the-fly setup which starts to slip. I was told that in the 2003 model the front diff was improved to help stop this, didn't work so i'm going to lockers now
Yes, don't use the rear tow point to pull out a SWB patrol from a mud hole. Its started to come away.
Jeff
Very happy with the results, Make sure that if you do lift the front only use OME stuts these are the only struts that are 40mm longer. I killed the stock struts in about a week, and some Dobson stuts (about 5mm longer) in 2 weeks, the OME have been going strong for a few months now.
If you do go to a bigger and better tyre say goodbye to any waranty on your front diff. I just stuffed mine, because the tyres don't slip as much as the stock tyres the load ends up on the shift-on-the-fly setup which starts to slip. I was told that in the 2003 model the front diff was improved to help stop this, didn't work so i'm going to lockers now
Yes, don't use the rear tow point to pull out a SWB patrol from a mud hole. Its started to come away.
Jeff
'03 GV
Thanks everyone for your responses. I have been reviewing the Vicroads info on modifications. Appears the mere thought of doing any changes requires an Engineer approval to ensure Insurance coverage. Any ideas what the cost of this privilege is? One of these requirements is that no part of the car can foul any other part, such as tyres on bodywork. Appears this may be a hard ask withour raising the body. Also tyres can't be more than 15mm taller than the largest tyre on that series of car? Again, even a small increase from the 235/60 16 to 215/70 would surpass this.
Nahh... depends on how wide and what rim offset etc. Try some sierra offset style rims.
You should be able to clear the 29"s with no great dramas and get them certified in victoria.... it's just us QLD people who have the really stupid rules on bigger tyres - you'll get 31"s engineered easy down there.
You should be able to clear the 29"s with no great dramas and get them certified in victoria.... it's just us QLD people who have the really stupid rules on bigger tyres - you'll get 31"s engineered easy down there.
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