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Rear tail shaft

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

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Rear tail shaft

Post by Rhett »

My rear tail shaft is binding in the yokes on the transfer end. I rotated my diff and moved it back as much as I could today and it still binds. How have other ppl got around this problem. I have seen transfer cases lowered but I think that is a step backwards. Double carden joint maybe?
Its a wheelbase thing
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Post by bigsteve »

Possibly a silly question but are the yokes lined up??

You know how both knuckles are supposed to be inline with one another.
(That may or may not make any sense)
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Post by mtzook »

That's odd that it's your rear shaft that's binding. Normally it's the front cause it's so much shorter...

Stephen did something to the t-case for a bit of adjustability, but i never did see what it was.

You must have some serious lift if it's binding like that...

BTW, if you could find a driveshaft with more "openness" around the u-joint, then maybe that would solve your binding problem. How close is it when it touches???
My tires were rubbing in the front, so I trimmed the hood, and now they're fine...
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Post by redzook »

i use a toy d/c shaft

dosent bind and is beefy aswell :D
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Post by bigsteve »

If possible can you post a pic of your tail shaft angle??
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Post by Rhett »

My didgital camera is dead at the moment. But a quick guesimation would say about 25 degrees of straight. I had a quick look at the front you can see it has been binding too. I was thinking of grinding the yokes back a bit. Or is this a big nono?
Its a wheelbase thing
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Post by bigsteve »

Rhett wrote:My didgital camera is dead at the moment. But a quick guesimation would say about 25 degrees of straight. I had a quick look at the front you can see it has been binding too. I was thinking of grinding the yokes back a bit. Or is this a big nono?


Possibly axle wrap. whats your suspension setup again??
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Post by Rhett »

It would be a little axle wrap involved but even when I finish my ladder bar it is going to be very close. I guess I will just do the ladder bar and go from there.
Its a wheelbase thing
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Post by bazooked »

just get sum hilux shafts modded to suit front and rear and all ur problems will be gone..
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Post by Rhett »

Ladder bar is on and it still binds a touch when hammering it. (doing donuts) I will have to go hilux shalfs but I will do hilux diffs at the same time I thinks. I have noticed the more you look at tires the smaller they get. I am after something a bit bigger than 33s now.
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Post by 1MadEngineer »

there is an easy cheap bullet proof solution, i wil pm u the details :finger:
55deg joint running angle :lol:
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Post by bazooked »

hey madengineer can u pm me the details to? :D
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Post by Rhett »

Thanks for the info Mad Engneer Il C if I can find some when I do My diff swap.
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Post by xtreem »

Why not post it here so we can all see???????????????????????????????
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Post by Squik »

bigsteve wrote:Possibly a silly question but are the yokes lined up??

You know how both knuckles are supposed to be inline with one another.
(That may or may not make any sense)


I'm sorting shaft dramas at the moment as well, so the knuckles points are supposed to be paralell or at 90 degrees to each other?
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Post by zookjedi »

Squik wrote:
bigsteve wrote:Possibly a silly question but are the yokes lined up??

You know how both knuckles are supposed to be inline with one another.
(That may or may not make any sense)


I'm sorting shaft dramas at the moment as well, so the knuckles points are supposed to be paralell or at 90 degrees to each other?


paralell ,
if its worth doing do it intensly , better still do it with MADPASSION

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Post by bigsteve »

stressed wrote:
Squik wrote:
bigsteve wrote:Possibly a silly question but are the yokes lined up??

You know how both knuckles are supposed to be inline with one another.
(That may or may not make any sense)


I'm sorting shaft dramas at the moment as well, so the knuckles points are supposed to be paralell or at 90 degrees to each other?


paralell ,


Yes thats what thought too

]------[
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Post by Squik »

ok...so.... (and excuse the playskool mechanics) on a sierra rear shaft, I just pull the shaft apart at the boot and just turn to align the splines to set the knuckles parallel?
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Post by greg »

Squik wrote:ok...so.... (and excuse the playskool mechanics) on a sierra rear shaft, I just pull the shaft apart at the boot and just turn to align the splines to set the knuckles parallel?


Correct. However, you should be able to see a mark on each part of the drive shaft - and you can line those two marks up to get on the exact splines you want it to be on (hope that made sense)...
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Post by redzook »

Rhett wrote:Thanks for the info Mad Engneer Il C if I can find some when I do My diff swap.


can u post up :)
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Post by bigsteve »

Rhett wrote:Ladder bar is on and it still binds a touch when hammering it. (doing donuts) I will have to go hilux shalfs but I will do hilux diffs at the same time I thinks. I have noticed the more you look at tires the smaller they get. I am after something a bit bigger than 33s now.


Attn Greg

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