ok, i am going to the bank tomorrow to get the money out for my dualcase, do i get a cash advance on my credit card and get a 4.7 reduction at the same time, i want to, but for some reason i am having trouble justifying it.
NICK
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tell me i need low range
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tell me i need low range
TECH SCREW GURU
I was just saying to Sam today i was seriously thinking of crawler gears in my second case, but i can not justify that expence at the moment.
I have heard(under line HEARD) marks adaptors have reduced there price down to $995.00.
Thats pretty darn good.
I keep thinking about it and come up with the same conclusion every time.
Crawler gears are cheap compared to an engine swap.
The other thing is to, more reduction, means more torque,means most likely more snapped axles.
I will probarbly wait until i get a set of custom heavy duty axles maybe from macnamara before i go any more reduction.
I have heard(under line HEARD) marks adaptors have reduced there price down to $995.00.
Thats pretty darn good.
I keep thinking about it and come up with the same conclusion every time.
Crawler gears are cheap compared to an engine swap.
The other thing is to, more reduction, means more torque,means most likely more snapped axles.
I will probarbly wait until i get a set of custom heavy duty axles maybe from macnamara before i go any more reduction.
RUFF wrote:NICK wrote:ruff, if you want one, i can get them cheaper if i buy more, now that i think about it, what about adrian?
i think i will get it, even if i dont use it i can always sell it on again.
NICK
I could prob do you a deal on a Winch
mmmmmmmmmm i could use a himount in the rear of the runner now that i think about it.
NICK
TECH SCREW GURU
POS wrote:4.0 or 4.7 would probarbly not even notice the difference on the trail.
.
i think you would, with 4.88 gears
dualcase is 100:1
dual and 4.0 is 175:1
and duals and 4.7 is 206:1
so there is another reduction of 26%, but with the 5.29 that i have, if i go this setup i will be 223:1
NICK
TECH SCREW GURU
RUFF wrote:Nick at that price you defianatly need lower gears i would buy a set myself but have too many other things on the go at the moment.
i am now seriously thinking of getting 2, thats a lower range of 459.1 for all you pipe smokers that think your 100.1 is shit hot
:wink:
NICK
TECH SCREW GURU
Cheezy4x4 wrote:650 to1 you will DNF B4 your rear wheels pass the start line He He.
My new set up will have 170 to 1 with an auto with the option to go to 336 to 1 but I think that is to deep with an auto.
you want to shed some light, what tcase box etc?
i hear you are going portals?
NICK
TECH SCREW GURU
Cheezy 170:1 in an auto won't that overcome the brakes ?
There was a big topic on Trail Talk about this very issue, low range reduction in an auto (the lowest you could go).
One guy said he had a Jeep (can't remember what model) and it had 4:1 low range reduction (about 120:1 or so) he said he couldn't stop it in 1st low and had to reef it into nuetral for the brakes to work. It was so bad he changed it back over.
There was a big topic on Trail Talk about this very issue, low range reduction in an auto (the lowest you could go).
One guy said he had a Jeep (can't remember what model) and it had 4:1 low range reduction (about 120:1 or so) he said he couldn't stop it in 1st low and had to reef it into nuetral for the brakes to work. It was so bad he changed it back over.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Bitsamissin wrote:Cheezy 170:1 in an auto won't that overcome the brakes ?
There was a big topic on Trail Talk about this very issue, low range reduction in an auto (the lowest you could go).
One guy said he had a Jeep (can't remember what model) and it had 4:1 low range reduction (about 120:1 or so) he said he couldn't stop it in 1st low and had to reef it into nuetral for the brakes to work. It was so bad he changed it back over.
same as a manual, lucky there is a thrid peddle eh.
I think you would be right if you had a transbrake and a huge stall
NICK
TECH SCREW GURU
I have been talking to my auto builder (who is a wheeler) and mate of mine Jason Duncan who ownes Dominator converters (who is doing my converter) about the same thing just this morning.
Both told me the same thing, its all in the converter, most converter builders make the converter to tight or low stall speed for crawling eg: 1000 rpm, trying to get instant throttle response. Once you put in lower or crawler gears the same converter stalls even lower eg: 600rpm being almost like a locked converter and unable to stop. My stall speed will, or should be 2200 rpm in low low, but will be 3000 in Hi, good for my 2WD drag racing.
My stall speed is for my vehicle only and may not suit all 4X4's as a converter varies with motor capacity, torque rating, cfm, head flow rates, cam specs, extractors and exhaust, gearing and tyre sizes, I take everyones advice into account but on this one I think I may go with Jason at Dominator converters.
Both told me the same thing, its all in the converter, most converter builders make the converter to tight or low stall speed for crawling eg: 1000 rpm, trying to get instant throttle response. Once you put in lower or crawler gears the same converter stalls even lower eg: 600rpm being almost like a locked converter and unable to stop. My stall speed will, or should be 2200 rpm in low low, but will be 3000 in Hi, good for my 2WD drag racing.
My stall speed is for my vehicle only and may not suit all 4X4's as a converter varies with motor capacity, torque rating, cfm, head flow rates, cam specs, extractors and exhaust, gearing and tyre sizes, I take everyones advice into account but on this one I think I may go with Jason at Dominator converters.
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