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I had always thought to myself that I'd go that way if I had to do it again. I sat both links above the diff centre (hilux with diff in centre of housing) and couldn't keep the heim joints up to it.
The other way that I was going to try was just a single link mounted above the diff centre with heim joints either end terminating at a custom crossmember above the front leaf spring hangers. Built so that the vertical separation was the same at the diff as the chassis which should give acceptable antisquat values and not too much bind. It looked like it would all fit on mine.
N*A*M wrote:single link setup rely on the front proportion of the leaves for triangulation/prevention of pivoting.
And
Sure it may not be as rigid as most triangulated setups but I feel that this could also be a bonus. It basically raises the axis that the axle has to pivot around which means that more force is needed before the springs wrap. I don't think the lack of harshness would be too bigger issue.
Although I haven't used this - so I'm only guessing.
NB Also assumes that your front half of the spring sits fairly flat and straight otherwise the change in length as it flatterns (if it alrealy has a steep arc) will possibly cause too much pinion rotation.
i had the single link setup on my hilux, and for a leaf sprung rear, it climbed like a freak. the dude that owns it now had it changed to the ladder and shackel setup and reckons it was a lot better before.
it had a poly bush at the crossmember (the horseshoe one) and a heim at the axle. the bolt centre was about 100mm off the top of the pumpkin.
:armsup: The Offical Founder of ARMS UP
Jimmy James Beam the III from babinda and mt isa and other places u don't wanna know about :armsup:
www.blackriver4wd.com
as far as I know is a range rover arm which came with the car when I bought it but before it was attached underneath to the standard diff...now it is on top for clearance purposes and its on a 60 series diff...the pic shows the tailshaft disconnected as I have moved the axle back 6 inches to increase wheelbase to 101" from standard 89" also moved front axle forward and at the time of the photo the tailshaft hadnt been lengthened yet....The tailshaft is now 6 inches longer with a slip joint spline measuring nearly300mm long thanks to the guys at "drivetrain".
The front mount is a cut down swinging shackle with a nylon bush which allows both back and forth swing as well as rotational movement...the whole thing cost nothing as didnt want to go to the trouble of fabbing a bar out of tube....
Old Yella wrote:from all the pic's everyones ladder bars would work differently.
what works better mounted in the centre or offset to one side.
would an offset one bind more on one side than the other
yeah in the centree is better and yes if it off set it will bind wen the truck flexys one way more than the other..
BTW i got the sinlge link on my junk workin a treat, it dont squat ir jack up wen climbin and i got no wrap.... very happy , will just have 2 c how long the springs hold up
Mi Lil Lux, how do you find yours works?? With only the single attachment point onto the diff, what is stopping the diff roating around until the shakle has moved all the way forward??
I honestly tthought you would have needed 2 points of attachemnt to make it work, but if yours works then I would be most interested in hearing about it.
I was thinking about doing the same, but as I have a cruiser with the offset diff, using 2 points of attachemnt is not a problem. Anyone got some photos of a cruiser track bar??
I think Lil Lux has used a front control arm, giving two points one infront of the other. Good use of what guys with big lifts get rid of, probably pretty cheap.
Very Cheap, arms of Dumbdunce FREE, have one spare if anyone wants one, no bushes, but I grabbed an old set from TJM that had been pressed out to put castor correction bushes in.
Haven't wheeled it yet, so can't say how well it works, but have seen this setup on my mates 73 Middy with a rangie arm, works well, he's running 39's with a 5L V8 behind the go pedal, and no wrap, is better to use a rangie arm, but as the cruiser one was cheap I used it, and allowed enough room to make a tray to hold batteries and compressor, which are still to be moved there.
Try not to let your mind wander...It is too
small and fragile to be out by itself.
if it isn't stiff enough you could replace it with an 80 series arm, they are the same dimensions but thicker. looks like it might bind a bit on articulation though - no joint to allow rotational freedom?
Yep thats what I'm worried about, which is why the shackle mount will be changed later, just had to get the car to wheel out of the house as was time to move, Maybe will use a mog joint to get around this problem.
Try not to let your mind wander...It is too
small and fragile to be out by itself.
Saem setup as drag cars - where theres a hanger below the U-bolts on the diff that connects to another hanger below the spring eye... the bar runs the same direction as the driveshaft.
Looking into one of these soon - looks like it wont affect articulation (my leaves run flat as) and is stronger than welding the diff, as you're using both the perches for the pivot point. The hangers also fit within a 15" rim too, so its legal, and cos it runs right alongside the rim you dont lose ground clearance.
Reddo wrote:How do the Commodore rods stand up, OK?
Tried a similar set up on the 40 series and the rods bent fairly easily...much better when the triangle was filled in with plate though!
Been alright so far. I found that the threaded section i put in the front of it has to be left loose otherwise it binds up pretty bad
I since changed the rear setup again but havent had a chance to try it with the new setup
Shifted springs in 150mm added 2 more leaves made the front mounts pivot [/img]
Looks a bit rough but the whole thing has only cost $450 an provides hors of entertainment so who cares
HYPOFAB 
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