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diff locks......again!!

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

Moderators: lay80n, sierrajim

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Location: Brisbane

Post by antt »

here's a diagram of the lockright, tho some of them don't have the 'couplers' (like mine) and just use the side gears instead

Image

and the spiel->

Power is transferred to the wheels through intermeshing teeth in such a way that one wheel cannot be powered ahead of the other. When entering a turn, where the outside wheel needs to travel faster than the inside wheel, the teeth driving the outside wheel disengage. The LOCK-RIGHT Locker is quieter than competing locking differentials, but nonetheless, as the vehicle continues through the turn, the teeth repeatedly engage and disengage producing a ratcheting sound.

The figure on the bottom of the diagram (See Detail) demonstrates the operation of the LOCK-RIGHT Locker. When powering straight ahead, the cross-shaft engages the saddles in the drivers at an angle such that, in addition to rotating the drivers, forces the teeth of the drivers into engagement with the teeth of the respective couplers. The harder the driving torque, the stronger the tooth engagement. When entering a turn, the driver on the outside of the turn advances ahead of the cross shaft so there is no torque or outward force imposed on this driver. The opposing driver remains fully engaged delivering engine power. After about 1° of rotation, the pins in the driver bottom out in the holes of the opposing driver, so it is now restrained from further rotation. Because the coupler is splined to the axle, it continues to rotate ahead of the driver. The positive angle on the coupler and driver teeth then enables the driver to disengage from the coupler with 1/2° of additional rotation. As the vehicle continues through the turn, the driver repeatedly engages and disengages from the coupler, making the aforementioned ratcheting sound. The springs between the two drivers ensure that the driver will reengage with the coupler when the vehicle exits the turn. The cross-shaft contacting the saddles provides the final engagement force, not the springs. In summary, the LOCK-RIGHT Locker offers full wheel differentiation combined with maximum traction.
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Post by purefmx »

I run a Lock-rite rear and i have no dramas with it..... However would much prefer an air locker.
ON/OFF....beautiful
1985 LWB Suzuki Sierra, Lock-Rite Rear, SPOA, 2" Body Lift, Climax shackles, Rancho's,
Series 1 Rockhoppers, 31x11.5 MT'S, "To return from the dead very sooooon!"
[url]http://www.cyberdesigns.tk[/url]
[url]http://www.purefmx.tk[/url]
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Post by -Mandy- »

I have a Ezi-Locker in the rear,Air locker in the front.
You learn to drive carefully while cornering etc or you could easily take out the car in the next lane,and if it's raining I take my other zook!I wouldn't even bother trying to keep the locker under control it in the wet if you need to get somewhere in a hurry.
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Post by zookjedi »

82ZUK wrote:I have a Ezi-Locker in the rear,Air locker in the front.
You learn to drive carefully while cornering etc or you could easily take out the car in the next lane,and if it's raining I take my other zook!I wouldn't even bother trying to keep the locker under control it in the wet if you need to get somewhere in a hurry.


why so many driving problems in the wet with the ez locker? i don't even notice mine except for car parks etc , its not the careful driving that matters its how you drive it, just keep the power on around corners , not much but enough to keep it from unlocking and she'll be all good.
if its worth doing do it intensly , better still do it with MADPASSION

set your limits way beyond your abilities
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