Rear locker for 3.5l NJ Pajero

Post by **Adomw** » Wed May 12, 2004 12:16 pm

Can anyone help with a lead on a Rear Diff locker for my 3.5lV6 NJ Pajero Please..,

Also whats the story with Lower T/Case gears for the same (5 Speed Manual)

Thanks in advance

Ado
(Sunny Geraldton WA)

Post by **Grantw** » Wed May 12, 2004 1:27 pm

Ado,

This was the link i was looking for... Shane may still have his up for grabs.. Its a 4.9 ratio, meaning you will need to source a 4.9 ratio diff for the front.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... ear+locker

Post by **Adomw** » Wed May 12, 2004 1:38 pm

Thanks Grant, I've left a message on Shanes Mobile

I should be able to change the Crown Wheel and Pinion from my LSD - no?

Do you know who to contact re - lower T'Case gears

Ado

Post by **Adomw** » Wed May 12, 2004 1:41 pm

Thanks Grant, I've left a message on Shanes Mobile

I should be able to change the Crown Wheel and Pinion from my LSD - no?

Do you know who to contact re - lower T'Case gears

Ado

Post by **Ian Sharpe** » Wed May 12, 2004 1:44 pm

BTW the crownwheel & pinion from your NJ will go into the diesel (4.90) diff centre, so you dont have to source a 4.90 front unless you want to.

I upgraded my 4.636 diffs to 4.90 but dont really recommend it as a cost effective exercise.

cheers

Post by **Adomw** » Wed May 12, 2004 2:01 pm

Ian

Thanks very much - Not to question your integrity but do you know this for sure? before I blow some big bucks :lol:

Ado

Post by **Bitsamissin** » Wed May 12, 2004 6:28 pm

Yes Ado it has been triple checked and confirmed anywhere a 4.636 has been a 4.90 will fit.
I'm not 100% sure if Shane wants to part with it but you can only ask see how you go and I may have another source for you.
The 3.5 V6 factory rear lockers are as rare as hens teeth be absolutely sure that wreckers don't confuse it with the 3.0 V6 version which is smaller and are more readily available.

As for 3.5 V6 t/case gears I have sourced a auto t/case (just got to have it delivered) to develop the low gears for these cases.
It will probably be in 3-4 months before anything is available though.
The 2.85 gears already available will fit all 2.6 & 3.0 V6 t/cases but the 3.5/2.8TDI cases are physically bigger and run a slightly different idler gear.
I read your email so the above should answer your question.

Frank.

Post by **Ian Sharpe** » Wed May 12, 2004 8:08 pm

Ado,

as Frank says, absolutely 110% sure about this I had mine done by a diff place since I needed new bearings . Straight swap in.

also I am wondering how you wired up your solenoids as per post in the Pajero Club forum, cheers

Post by **wpurchas** » Wed May 12, 2004 9:41 pm

Frank, How much will a diff like this go for in OZ?

I could lay my hands on some, mostly from wrecked late model Pajero's

98- models. Diesel, petrol,LWb and SWB.

I saw various ratios available

At the time I was looking, I could get one for my vehicle, complete with the compressor and CPU.

If it looks that it could be a business prop to ship, I can investigate shipping costs etc.

Willie

Post by **Bitsamissin** » Wed May 12, 2004 9:59 pm

Yeah the diff centre complete with ECU, compressor and wiring sell for between $1000-$1500 Aus.
If you can price up the kit + shipping and we can go from there.
There are only 2 ratio's available 4.636 (3.5 V6) and 4.90 (2.8 TDI) in the 10" rear diff (the 3.0 V6 is 9").
Grant and Ian used the lsd axles ok (ones a little shorter but ok to use) and the locker diff centre bolts straight into the lsd axle housing.

Frank.

Post by **wpurchas** » Wed May 12, 2004 10:10 pm

Frank,

Should I look at only shipping the centre unit, compressor and wiring to reduce shipping weight or complete unit?

Looking at what it can sell for in OZ it might be touch and go to make it a proposition.

Willie

Post by **Bitsamissin** » Wed May 12, 2004 10:48 pm

Yeah I would look at just the diff centre, switch, ECU & compressor and possibly the axles thats all you would need. The axle housing is not necesary.

Post by **wpurchas** » Wed May 12, 2004 11:41 pm

Have just spoken to my source. He has 4 complete diffs available for 3.5V6 . with all pumps etc.

Can most probably get a unit for the 2.8D if I want one now and he recons I can work on 1 per month there-after becoming available. ( depends on how many are scrapped by the insurers)

I will have to estimate the mass and volume and get a quote from the shippers.

I am going to work on sending 4 at a time????

Any idea on the weight. He recons I must take the complete diff. which includes the brake discs. He says the housings for the shafts of the LSD and difflock units are different

Willie

Post by **Ian Sharpe** » Thu May 13, 2004 6:41 am

Just an update on the axles, originally I stated that the axles were compatible as I had merely swapped my old ones in.

Anyway Grant found that the left axle is about 7mm longer & wont fit. I rechecked this & then realised that I mixed up the axles , so in reality they are different.

BUT as Grant did , you can shorten the left hand side axle of the non locked diff to make it go into the centre of the locked diff.

Maybe best to get axles though.

But you definately DONT need the housing. & really dont need the ECU either & if you want to use the original console locker switch then you have to use a latch relay with it, otherwise just get some of ARB nice blue locker switches.

cheers

Post by **Grantw** » Thu May 13, 2004 8:54 am

I got the axels out of the locked rear end for mine... I wasnt happy with cutting down the Lsd axel... When you buy the locker, if they tell you its a kit, well it should include axels as well... If not buy em...

Post by **Adomw** » Thu May 13, 2004 12:06 pm

Frank & Ian,

Thanks very much for your input/ Data, I think that I have the confidence now to pay for and swap in the diff that you helped me find.

Ian, with regard to the front diff solinoid wiring - I can tell you exactly how to do it for an NJ. I can't imagine that they (Mitsu) changed the way they did the super select untill the new full IFS IRS model (maybe)

So here I go.

In the NJ the solinoids in question are underneath the Power steer fluid reservior.

One of them is connected to the vacuum reservoir on the Diff (by vacuum hose) this vac solinoid had two wires, one has 12v on it all the time ( when the engine is running) the other has 12v on it in all of the 4WD modes and is grounded ( may read a couple of volts ) in 2WD mode - this is the wire that you need to splice into to run a wire up to your dash and then to ground.

The wire that you run only needs to be small like any other relay control wire - the vac solinoid only draws a fraction of an amp.

When you throw the new switch it will ground the wire that the ECU normally grounds in 2WD allowing you to disconnect front drive ant time you want.

Hope this helps - I could supply pics if you like.

Ado
trust me, I work for the government.

Post by **Ian Sharpe** » Thu May 13, 2004 1:39 pm

thanks Ado,

do you remember what colour this wire is??

cheers

Post by **Adomw** » Thu May 13, 2004 1:47 pm

Ian

Can't remember the wire colour, but i'll have a look at home tonight and post the answer

Sorry my necktop computer has b*gger all memory

Ado

Post by **Ian Sharpe** » Thu May 13, 2004 1:56 pm

thanksmate,

that would be good.

so let me get this right.

we are not talking about switching this wire as one would normally switch a circuit are we since that would mean that if the switch was off then the grounding wont be made in 2WD.

I sense here that you are saying we need to run another ground to the wire & switch that. is this correct.

& also when you do this do the front wheels light up on the dash indicator.

I guess one could use a relay to turn off the signal to the dash light if the grounding swtich is active.

cheers

Post by **wpurchas** » Thu May 13, 2004 9:27 pm

Frank,

I have looked into total cost of getting the 4 complete units (4.636) sent from here via airfreight to Melbourne Airport.

It seems that the cost will work out to about 1500Au$. each. (don't know about your taxes/duties)

I could not make it a proposition for myself, but if you would be interested, I can put you in contact with my source to deal direct.

Willie

Post by **Adomw** » Fri May 14, 2004 12:18 pm

Ian Sharpe wrote:thanksmate,

that would be good.

so let me get this right.

we are not talking about switching this wire as one would normally switch a circuit are we since that would mean that if the switch was off then the grounding wont be made in 2WD.

I sense here that you are saying we need to run another ground to the wire & switch that. is this correct.

& also when you do this do the front wheels light up on the dash indicator.

I guess one could use a relay to turn off the signal to the dash light if the grounding swtich is active.

cheers

Ian

Yes you are right, you do need to run a new wire to be switched to ground.I ran mine from the vac solinoid in the engine bay to the new switch in the dash and then to a ground point near the drivers kick panel.

With regard to the lights on the dash - since they are driven by a switch in the diff assy they will continue to reflect the state of the diff. So even if you are in 4L the lights for the front wheels will go on and off in sympathy with the new switch - pretty cool huh!

Remember that I said that the vac solinoids are under the power steering reservoir? - well they are actually on the inner guard under the brake master near the front brake line junction box - a bit of a pain to get to.

The wire in question is yellow with a blue/green trace in my NJ. I just bared back the wire a bit and wrapped and soldered the new wire to it.

A word of warning - manufacturers have been known to change wire colours in different production runs. so do what I did and bare back both wires (don't unplug anything for the test) and identify which wire goes to ground when you switch to 2WD from 4wd . Both wires will show 12v in 4wd and only one will drop when you go to 2wd. do all this with engine running. this test should work using a test light , a multimeter is better.

Feel free to call me, my number is in my profile.

Ado

Post by **Ian Sharpe** » Fri May 14, 2004 2:22 pm

Thanks Ado,

I'll have a go at this on the weekend, also the dealer said that the solenoids in the NK are on the passenger side under the bonnet, a bit easier to access I think

cheers

Post by **Grantw** » Thu Jun 03, 2004 8:25 pm

Ado,

Did you end up getting a rear locker tracked down?

Post by **Adomw** » Fri Jun 04, 2004 10:52 am

Grant

Sadly no rear locker in sight - but on the good news side

ARB have released the 8" front locker RD 110 wooohooo

I ordered one yesterday

but I still would love to find a factory rear

Ado

Post by **Grantw** » Fri Jun 04, 2004 11:23 am

Ahhhh..... front locker with no rear..... beware....

I may have a rear locker for you in the near future....

Post by **Adomw** » Mon Jun 07, 2004 9:10 pm

Grant

Outstanding!!!

Don't hesitate to email me on adekleer@fesa.wa.gov.au if you get a lead

thanks heaps in advance

and what do I need to be aware of with only a locker in the front apart from gross understeer??

Ado

( still jazzed about the front locker)

Post by **Grantw** » Tue Jun 08, 2004 7:42 am

No worries ado... It may be a few weeks before I know as I am looking to trade up to a new gu coil cab ute. I will try to sell it privately first, (no advertising that it has a rear locker though

), but if no takers I will strip all my gear of it and trade it in.

Then, I will let you know of the locker situation.....

Post by **Adomw** » Mon Jun 14, 2004 7:00 pm

Grant,

Sorry to here you going over to the dark side (Nissan) - hope you'll still visit us here in the Jabber forum.

For your sake I hope you sell the Paj all in one bit but if you end up with a locker for sale - consider me a customer

Ado

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