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Replace one of the main weaknesses of driveline strength with Volvos and you have a might fine machine.
This belongs to Paavo from Finland and is very motivational to me.
Looks good on the Q78s and not much trimming is required at stock rim offset. It looks just right and not overdone. After seeing these pics and how "factory" it all looks, I'm not going to bother with engineering.
my 37s measure about 35.5" unmounted. that will change but i doubt it would be a full 37" anyway. but it's not the height that makes the difference but the width, in this case. i know the fronts will foul on the radius arms at full lock but that can be limited. if i want to run bead lock rings, i will need to offset the rims, and then the tyres won't tuck as well and will probably foul much more. not sure what to do about the rear doors if i need to trim a lot. maybe just leave them shut.
N*A*M wrote:my 37s measure about 35.5" unmounted. that will change but i doubt it would be a full 37" anyway. but it's not the height that makes the difference but the width, in this case. i know the fronts will foul on the radius arms at full lock but that can be limited. if i want to run bead lock rings, i will need to offset the rims, and then the tyres won't tuck as well and will probably foul much more. not sure what to do about the rear doors if i need to trim a lot. maybe just leave them shut.
yeah that is what i meant no probs there with diff clearance
..............and just leave the rear doors shut....cut away and weld up
Gday Nam Its Bill.I have just returned from a couple of months in Vietnam.There are stacks of interesting fourbyes over there for headcases like me. This is a really interesting website. i wish I had tried it before..by the time you read this posting I would probably have already rang you. How is the axle conversion going? There seems to be a lot of interest in portals on this site, Volvos in particular. I would like to point out to anyone considering this conversion to a range rover or any coilsprung landrover that when I did the conversion to young Tims 110 I set the front axle at 3 degrees positive caster but the front propshaft vibrations were intolerable because the front diff pinion was parrallel to the road and a standard Rangerover,Landrover pinion is tilted up 12 to 15 degrees, depending on suspension height. That is why I had to redrill the front housing on young Tims, yours and Tim Hoods axles, to restore the correct driveline angle. I cannot see how anyone could successfully fit Volvo's to coily Rovers without doing this modification. A propshaft with double cardens both ends works but is very heavy and has a short life.
Remember volvo's are not fully floaters, so you cannot fit free wheel hubs for road work, so the driveline angles must be correct or you will render the vehicle virtually unusable for anything but low speed off road work.
Anyway I have almost run out of time on my prepaid internet account, so I am unable tonight to address the other issues I wanted to regarding three link front suspensions, and my low range crawler box design that was mentioned on other threads. Maybe in a day or two, once I have settled back in. Regards.
'bout time you signed up bill, i'm sick of pimping your ideas i don't know of anyone else that drives a vehicle with 3 link, parabolics,drop shackles,portals, lockers, crawler box and sometimes duel wheels. (mostly all homemade )
.
i still have a pile of parts, mostly dwarfed by the 101 diffs.
anyway, welcome to outerlimits
david
daddylonglegs wrote:Gday Nam Its Bill.I have just returned from a couple of months in Vietnam.There are stacks of interesting fourbyes over there for headcases like me. This is a really interesting website. i wish I had tried it before..by the time you read this posting I would probably have already rang you. How is the axle conversion going? There seems to be a lot of interest in portals on this site, Volvos in particular. I would like to point out to anyone considering this conversion to a range rover or any coilsprung landrover that when I did the conversion to young Tims 110 I set the front axle at 3 degrees positive caster but the front propshaft vibrations were intolerable because the front diff pinion was parrallel to the road and a standard Rangerover,Landrover pinion is tilted up 12 to 15 degrees, depending on suspension height. That is why I had to redrill the front housing on young Tims, yours and Tim Hoods axles, to restore the correct driveline angle. I cannot see how anyone could successfully fit Volvo's to coily Rovers without doing this modification. A propshaft with double cardens both ends works but is very heavy and has a short life. Remember volvo's are not fully floaters, so you cannot fit free wheel hubs for road work, so the driveline angles must be correct or you will render the vehicle virtually unusable for anything but low speed off road work. Anyway I have almost run out of time on my prepaid internet account, so I am unable tonight to address the other issues I wanted to regarding three link front suspensions, and my low range crawler box design that was mentioned on other threads. Maybe in a day or two, once I have settled back in. Regards.
Hi Bill, good to have you on the board. I am very interested in the crawler box.
Any pics of your LR's?
How can the volvo be not a full floater? surely the inners must be fully floating, just the stub shafts in the portals that aren't??? how hard would a full float conversion be?
Last edited by ISUZUROVER on Fri May 14, 2004 1:49 am, edited 2 times in total.
Hello gents. Thanks for the warm welcome. I have topped up my account and I will now attempt to answer the questions relevant to this thread, and in due course I will post replies pertaining to crawler box etc in some of the other threads.
First to modman. Thanks for the rap. i hope your 101 axle conversion is going well. You do realise that you will need to cut and turn the swivel balls on your front end about 15 degrees or your vehicle will suffer severe vibration problems as with the Volvo axle conversion. or you could fit Warn free wheel hubs and a part time 4wd conversion to you transfercase.
Isuzurover. Yes and no. the inner axle shafts on the Volvo are full floating, but the bottom stub shafts support the vehicles weight and also transmit drive, so are non floating. Because the axles use the same brake backing plates as Land Rovers I did look at fitting Landy hubs and spindles to the Volvo drop boxes but there were issues relating to greatly reduced axle diameters etc. Incidently, to those that say the Volvo is a "dead axle" because it is no longer in production, I would say that is not really a serious problem. all bearings and oil seals, with the exception of the stub shaft seals are common and readily available in OZ. I made adaptors for the stub shafts to fit a commonly available seal also.
The diff centres are probably 50 % stronger than a Rangerover anyway and that does not take into consideration the positive effect that hub reduction has on diff strength. In the unlikely event that CV joints are ever needed ,early Rangey ones can be used by making a short stub shaft. The drop box gears are very strong and should last forever in Landy size vehicles, provided you keep the oil levels topped up. Anyway they are simple straight cut spur gears and can be quite cheaply made in
OZ if you get desperate. The same with the upper axle shafts. The bottom stub shafts are huge with a 46mm diameter drive spline, so no worries there either. The brakes are Landy. The eight stud brake drums can be made from Landy brake drums. The stupid single acting spring loaded difflock servo's can be replaced with modified double acting Landy centre difflock servo's. etc etc. The only potential problem I see is getting replacement tie rod ends for the steering track rod. I will be looking at adapting 110 pitman arm ball joint rebuild kits to the volvo track rod soon.
I think I do have photos of my Landy and young Tims 110 on Volvos stored in the bowels of my computer. If I can retreive them I will try to forward them on, but I warn you that I am a complete dunce with computers so it might take a while.
Dave S3, Look forward to seeing you again, but i am no longer at Off Road Rover. We folded up the business just prior to my going to Vietnam.
Well thats about all for this afternoon. talk to you all again soon.
regards Bill.
may i suggest you join http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Volvo303/ as there is a lot of good knowledge in that group and plenty of people that need your knowledge too.
Info on Brake Parts:
At "http://www.hotchallenge.se/tips.html" there is some info of obtaining brake parts for the C3-series from England (Land Rover parts) at a greately reduced price compared to Volvo. A Land Rover Series2 109 Station Wagon with a 2,6 litre gasoline engine from 1971 has the same brake shoes and wheel cylinders as the C3-series.
C3-series vs Land Rover Part #
Brake shoe front = RTC3424
Brake shoe rear = STC2797
Wheel cylinder rear right = 243296
Wheel cylinder rear left = 243297
Wow... that is some great tech....welcome to the board Bill...
i'm sure you have lots more valuable information to share with us...
did young Gamblin every get his truck engineered ?
Yes we got the 110 engineered quite some time ago. it passed the braking test without problems( 15stops from 60kmh and 1 stop from 100kmh without time to cool off). This also vindicated my choice of the three link front suspension. I originally set the rear end up minus the antiroll bar but the engineer thought it oversteered too much, so I quickly welded the mounts on to the volvo axle and after a quick road test he was satisfied. Unfortunately Tim hadn't shown much interest in the vehicle up to the time I left, so it has probably only covered a couple of hundred kilometres all up.
At "http://www.hotchallenge.se/tips.html" there is some info of obtaining brake parts for the C3-series from England (Land Rover parts) at a greately reduced price compared to Volvo.
daddylonglegs wrote:I would like to point out to anyone considering this conversion to a range rover or any coilsprung landrover that when I did the conversion to young Tims 110 I set the front axle at 3 degrees positive caster but the front propshaft vibrations were intolerable because the front diff pinion was parrallel to the road and a standard Rangerover,Landrover pinion is tilted up 12 to 15 degrees, depending on suspension height.
Bill,
How much lift was there to get the vibration?
Did you put the u-joints in phase when the pinion was level?
Is the pinion a lot longer on the Volvo axles versus the Rover?
It seems strange that you would "need" to pivot the pinion. Just looked at the 90 and the rear pinion is flat, front pointing at the t.case. Both propshafts are about the same length. Angles don't look like too much to have a problems with normal parallel shafts.
John B. yes I tried rephasing the UJ's in every possible position, to no avail. There was no suspension lift. You do not need to lift the suspension when you have portals because the whole vehicle with the exception of the wheels and hubs is lifted four and a half inches.
Take another look at the front diff on a Rangerover, Landrover 110 or 90 and you will note that the pinion is tilted up markedly(12 degrees or so) and the UJ's are out of phase. This is what I had to duplicate on the Volvo axle, but you cant just simply rotate the axle assembly or you would end up with about 9degrees of negative caster. that is why I redrilled the swivel housing mounting flanges. to restore caster. Because I had three front ends to modifiy I made up a drill jig with hardened pilot guides and a concentric swivel mounting for a magnetic base drill. If I had to drill all those half inch holes freehand it would probably have killed me.
the Volvo pinion length is so close to the Rovers that the same propeller shaft bolts straight up without modification. Bear in mind that I prepared these axles to be installed on registered, roadworthy street driven vehicles that are expected to cruise at highway speeds as well as serious off road use. regards, Bill.
Landyman. In answer to your private message.Yes that is my block of land, and you are welcome.
Can anyone advise how I may forward some photos from an email in my inbox to this thread, and how I can delete some unwanted text before I do so? These photos show in reasonable detail the 110 on Volvo portals and my series 2a on home made portals. Regards Bill.
you can forward them to me...
have sent pm with email address
or if you want to give posting pics a shot......
click on the pics in the email...click save attachments...
take note of where the files are being saved...
then come here...and post a meesage as normal...down the bottom of the post reply window you will see a little section - add attachment...click the browse button and find the location of the pic....click away and press submit...
)
I WANT PORTALS 
