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Transfer case leaking again
Moderator: -Scott-
Transfer case leaking again
After all my hard work last time i fixed it with tightened seals and smothing it off and cleaning everything up, it once again is pissing out almost. I give up. Do i have to buy the new yoke? Whats going on am i missing somthing cause it really is a pain in the arse. I have had it all apart at least 10 times now and really can't be bothered getting under there again to fix it. Pleease help a man who has given up all tcase hope :( :(
"If it ain't broken, smash it harder, then make it stronger!"
Yes Mike you will have to buy a new yoke (about $120).
They have a welch plug stamped into them that can corrode through.
I had the same issues a while back, mucked around with aftermarket seals, increasing tension ra ra ra.
Put a new yoke in it and it stopped immediately, I haven't bothered to clean up the old yoke for inspection but you could see the oil was leaking out internally from the yoke.
They have a welch plug stamped into them that can corrode through.
I had the same issues a while back, mucked around with aftermarket seals, increasing tension ra ra ra.
Put a new yoke in it and it stopped immediately, I haven't bothered to clean up the old yoke for inspection but you could see the oil was leaking out internally from the yoke.
Hmmmmmm I forgive you.
Lets talk about air operated articulators cause that excites me. I love the comfort factor of a disconnect swaybar but as soon as it flattens out i like the body roll minimised for some drifting. Its just too much of a pain getting out all the time to connect/disconnect and i would like a switch next to my locker switch.
Lets talk about air operated articulators cause that excites me. I love the comfort factor of a disconnect swaybar but as soon as it flattens out i like the body roll minimised for some drifting. Its just too much of a pain getting out all the time to connect/disconnect and i would like a switch next to my locker switch.
"If it ain't broken, smash it harder, then make it stronger!"
If you are talking about leak from center cap in the yoke I had the same issue couple years ago. Instead of buying new one I cleaned it up throughly and then covered it with JBWeld. So far so goo. It survived two years, trip to Colorado with hundreds of mile of trails. Does not leak so far.
92 Montero SR, 285/75R16(33-11.50/R16) Yokohama MT on 16X8 Eagle 149 alloys, brush guard, Rear ARB, GAST air compressor, AirLift 1000, OME. MileMarker 10500
2002 GL, 285/75R16 SuperSwamper TruXus MT
2002 GL, 285/75R16 SuperSwamper TruXus MT
Alex thats a good idea, I think I'll do that to my old one and keep it as a spare 
Mike the auto disconnect is operated via a pnuematic ram (you need a compressor to run it). Barry has just found a local pnuematic supply business that can build the rams to our specs, he should get the first ram next week and then it goes on my Paj.
The base units from now on will have a flat surface machined in so the ram can be retrofitted at a later date if required.
There are also proximity switches on the the cylinder which can tell you the pin position eg- locked/unlocked. There will be a dash operated switch to lock/unlock the pin with say red/green LED indicators (next to the switch) to indicate pin position.
I'll take some pics when it is assembled and after it goes on my truck.
Mike the auto disconnect is operated via a pnuematic ram (you need a compressor to run it). Barry has just found a local pnuematic supply business that can build the rams to our specs, he should get the first ram next week and then it goes on my Paj.
The base units from now on will have a flat surface machined in so the ram can be retrofitted at a later date if required.
There are also proximity switches on the the cylinder which can tell you the pin position eg- locked/unlocked. There will be a dash operated switch to lock/unlock the pin with say red/green LED indicators (next to the switch) to indicate pin position.
I'll take some pics when it is assembled and after it goes on my truck.
That sounds awesome frank. My brothers next door neighbor gets a big discount at ARB so he is gonna get me a compressor cheap hopefully this week maybe. I think I mght have a crack at patching up the yoke like alex did with his so i can save some money. Is it hard to take apart the uni joint, like do i need any special tools etc.
"If it ain't broken, smash it harder, then make it stronger!"
You will have to disassemble u-joint anyway for new one or patched one.
I used c-clamp to press out u-joint. You need relatively large one, 150 mm or more. Make sure pressing head fits inside u-joint hole. You may have to remove some metal from it.
Remove the snap ring. Pick a socket large enough to accommodate u-joint cap. Place socket on that side then press u-joint out from opposite. Repeat steps for second part.
I used c-clamp to press out u-joint. You need relatively large one, 150 mm or more. Make sure pressing head fits inside u-joint hole. You may have to remove some metal from it.
Remove the snap ring. Pick a socket large enough to accommodate u-joint cap. Place socket on that side then press u-joint out from opposite. Repeat steps for second part.
92 Montero SR, 285/75R16(33-11.50/R16) Yokohama MT on 16X8 Eagle 149 alloys, brush guard, Rear ARB, GAST air compressor, AirLift 1000, OME. MileMarker 10500
2002 GL, 285/75R16 SuperSwamper TruXus MT
2002 GL, 285/75R16 SuperSwamper TruXus MT
Well i think i may have fixed the leak by patching it up like alex. I went down to bunnings to try and find somthing like the JBWeld but they didn't have sh1t so i found some stuff at supercheap auto called QuickSteel which seemd to be the same stuff and was $12.95. Anyway to cut a long story short i put took apart the uni, cleaned it, mixed the goo, put it on, let it dry and stuck it all back together. Then it took me 3 hours to undo the transfer case filler plug cause it had seized a bit and it is one of those half bolt head bloody things. Why do they make them anyway cause as soon as it gets tight you stuff em trying to get it undone. Had to wait for a mate to bring around a 24mm socket.
Other weekend activites included a 3" lift on a Isuzu MU incl. new leafs, 4 shocks and a balljoint flip. Doing the balljoint flip on an isuzu takes about 5 mintes per side and needs no spacers plates(optional) or modifications. One thing that differs is the length of the driveshafts, they are really short and the cv's are at pretty tight angles to start with.
Also cut down several large trees with a chainsaw. First time with a weapon of such destruction and i love it
mike.
Other weekend activites included a 3" lift on a Isuzu MU incl. new leafs, 4 shocks and a balljoint flip. Doing the balljoint flip on an isuzu takes about 5 mintes per side and needs no spacers plates(optional) or modifications. One thing that differs is the length of the driveshafts, they are really short and the cv's are at pretty tight angles to start with.
Also cut down several large trees with a chainsaw. First time with a weapon of such destruction and i love it
mike.
Last edited by redrocket on Mon Feb 10, 2003 9:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"If it ain't broken, smash it harder, then make it stronger!"
Allrighty fellers...
First off: What's a Welsh plug? Somone from the UK who is missing a few cards?
How can I be sure this is the trouble? My entire underside (truck Frank!) is completely pickled with the smelly gear oil. I have gone through 5 front output seals, and it still leaks like the proverbial basket! Driving me crazy!
PHIL
First off: What's a Welsh plug? Somone from the UK who is missing a few cards?
How can I be sure this is the trouble? My entire underside (truck Frank!) is completely pickled with the smelly gear oil. I have gone through 5 front output seals, and it still leaks like the proverbial basket! Driving me crazy!
PHIL
Phil.
The welch plug is the cap pressed into the part, to fill the hole/s left by the casting process. I forget what you call them over there, but on the engine they are the caps on the block/heads that leak coolant (usually one of the rear ones, just so you get to pull the engine tranny out to replace it!)
Neil
The welch plug is the cap pressed into the part, to fill the hole/s left by the casting process. I forget what you call them over there, but on the engine they are the caps on the block/heads that leak coolant (usually one of the rear ones, just so you get to pull the engine tranny out to replace it!)
Neil
It's time for my pill!
Neilj wrote:Phil.
The welch plug is the cap pressed into the part, to fill the hole/s left by the casting process. I forget what you call them over there, but on the engine they are the caps on the block/heads that leak coolant (usually one of the rear ones, just so you get to pull the engine tranny out to replace it!)
Neil
We call em frost plugs. That's where our block heater screws in, to keep the coolant warm during the c.c..c..c.c..o...o..o..o..l..l..d..d. season.
Thanks guys,
PHIL
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