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Hub seals....any thing else??
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Hub seals....any thing else??
Ok, me inear hub seals are leakin.... time to replace.....just guna get a kit from repco(or one of them shops) but wot else is there that may pop up on me, or anythin else that should be done at the same time?
repack all bearings or get new ones?
any tricks or tips to help...ive never done it before!!
repack all bearings or get new ones?
any tricks or tips to help...ive never done it before!!
Cheers, Hayden!
________________
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btw does any1 know an easy way to get out the seal out that is in the actuall housing? it took me like 15 minutes to get that seal out just ended up breakin it to get it out
Team UNDERDOG #233
WERock Australia thanks to
[url]http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com[/url]
[url]http://www.rockbuggysupply.com[/url]
WERock Australia thanks to
[url]http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com[/url]
[url]http://www.rockbuggysupply.com[/url]
NICK wrote:redzook wrote:btw does any1 know an easy way to get out the seal out that is in the actuall housing? it took me like 15 minutes to get that seal out just ended up breakin it to get it out
cut it, and pull it out.
i would put in new wheel bearings at the same time.
NICK
cut it with what?
Team UNDERDOG #233
WERock Australia thanks to
[url]http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com[/url]
[url]http://www.rockbuggysupply.com[/url]
WERock Australia thanks to
[url]http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com[/url]
[url]http://www.rockbuggysupply.com[/url]
redzook wrote:NICK wrote:redzook wrote:btw does any1 know an easy way to get out the seal out that is in the actuall housing? it took me like 15 minutes to get that seal out just ended up breakin it to get it out
cut it, and pull it out.
i would put in new wheel bearings at the same time.
NICK
cut it with what?
dont cut it use me slide hammer
DRIVE IT!!!!!
redzook wrote:NICK wrote:redzook wrote:btw does any1 know an easy way to get out the seal out that is in the actuall housing? it took me like 15 minutes to get that seal out just ended up breakin it to get it out
cut it, and pull it out.
i would put in new wheel bearings at the same time.
NICK
cut it with what?
hacksaw blade to break the little metal ring in them.
NICK
TECH SCREW GURU
yld04b wrote:redzook wrote:NICK wrote:redzook wrote:btw does any1 know an easy way to get out the seal out that is in the actuall housing? it took me like 15 minutes to get that seal out just ended up breakin it to get it out
cut it, and pull it out.
i would put in new wheel bearings at the same time.
NICK
cut it with what?
dont cut it use me slide hammer
if in doubt get the grinder out
TECH SCREW GURU
There is such a thing as a "Seal Puller". Works a treat - you won't want to go back to those other ameteurish methods
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Or the multigrip method also works well
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doing swivel hub bearings, seals felts etc and i'm stumped
i knocked out the bottom bearing race before noticing that they are both worn unevenly, like it was wearing on one side of the race making it elliptical. or they are meant to be like this? my question relates the replacement bearing in the kit, the races aren't elliptical so do i just put them in and hope, or add shims?? any help welcome
oh, i can't stress enough how easy it can be with the proper tools. after spending ages trying to get ball joints off the steering arm, bought a separator from repco. both off in less than 5 mins. then spent at least 2 hours trying to get axle seal out before making a booty fab seal puller from a scrap piece of steel and a chain style oil filter wrench
Cheers
i knocked out the bottom bearing race before noticing that they are both worn unevenly, like it was wearing on one side of the race making it elliptical. or they are meant to be like this? my question relates the replacement bearing in the kit, the races aren't elliptical so do i just put them in and hope, or add shims?? any help welcome
oh, i can't stress enough how easy it can be with the proper tools. after spending ages trying to get ball joints off the steering arm, bought a separator from repco. both off in less than 5 mins. then spent at least 2 hours trying to get axle seal out before making a booty fab seal puller from a scrap piece of steel and a chain style oil filter wrench
Cheers
Might also pay attention to the bush that the cv runs in it's inside the spindle don't know if the kits come with them a Gq i done at work a while ago came witht them so don't see why they wouldn't come in the toyota ones, But by the looks of the ebay ones they don't if this is worn the axle will move around to much and let oil bypass the seal only a matter of time till it leaks out again
plenty of parts on the bench
Yeah thats the one prob throw some new ones in mine next time front end pulled down CBF at the moment it hasn't had castor correcting kingpin bearings i'm sure i read something on here about them or someone asking how to fit them. Are the oval or round but of centre i wouldn't add any shims put back in what came out of the same place as it can play with the height the axle runs at
plenty of parts on the bench
I've found the main reason the wiper seals leak is because the inner seal has failed, diff oil gets into the hubs and since the felt wiper seals are only meant for grease - they leak. The inner seal can be replaced without distrubing the swivel bearings at all. If they're not notchy or exhibit play in any direction - leave them alone. The wiper seals can be replaced without removing the swivel housing, you cut them at an angle and slide them over the axle with the split at the top.
Setting up swivel housings properly can be fairly involved, checking preload and measuring shims to centre the housing to ensure the axle runs true.
Setting up swivel housings properly can be fairly involved, checking preload and measuring shims to centre the housing to ensure the axle runs true.
hope setting the preload isnt to critical, i was just planning of putting original shims back in. was only one shim on top, toyota and thickness etched into it. do i:
1 put them back in how i found them, or
2 replace with new shims of same thickness, or
3 some combination of above and set the preload. how?
everything is cleaned down to the trunion (i think it is called) because my kit wasn't right. wrong size wiper seals anyway, cleaned everything, all bearing and cv's greased and ready to go back in. tomorrow buy new kit and seal puller tool, fit wiper seals and begin bolting all together.
thanks for help so far guys
1 put them back in how i found them, or
2 replace with new shims of same thickness, or
3 some combination of above and set the preload. how?
everything is cleaned down to the trunion (i think it is called) because my kit wasn't right. wrong size wiper seals anyway, cleaned everything, all bearing and cv's greased and ready to go back in. tomorrow buy new kit and seal puller tool, fit wiper seals and begin bolting all together.
thanks for help so far guys
use the same shims as beforeBluey wrote:hope setting the preload isnt to critical, i was just planning of putting original shims back in. was only one shim on top, toyota and thickness etched into it. do i:
1 put them back in how i found them, or
2 replace with new shims of same thickness, or
3 some combination of above and set the preload. how?
everything is cleaned down to the trunion (i think it is called) because my kit wasn't right. wrong size wiper seals anyway, cleaned everything, all bearing and cv's greased and ready to go back in. tomorrow buy new kit and seal puller tool, fit wiper seals and begin bolting all together.
thanks for help so far guys
dont mix them up etc.
the shims arent for preload, they are to line the axle up dead centre with the axle tube, since the axle tube is a casting or welded etc, no 2 are exactly the same.
New bearings have no impact on the shims required to keep the swivle hub (and thus axle) centred with the axle tube.
Don't stress over the shims too much. Any toyota solid axle front is going to be at least 10 years old and if it's been offroad then it will almost certainly be bent slightly (or at least different from when it left the factory). Put them back in as they came out but if they're mixed up, just concentrate on the preload. Whether the axle is sitting 1mm higher or lower won't worry the seal that much.Shadow wrote:use the same shims as beforeBluey wrote:hope setting the preload isnt to critical, i was just planning of putting original shims back in. was only one shim on top, toyota and thickness etched into it. do i:
1 put them back in how i found them, or
2 replace with new shims of same thickness, or
3 some combination of above and set the preload. how?
everything is cleaned down to the trunion (i think it is called) because my kit wasn't right. wrong size wiper seals anyway, cleaned everything, all bearing and cv's greased and ready to go back in. tomorrow buy new kit and seal puller tool, fit wiper seals and begin bolting all together.
thanks for help so far guys
dont mix them up etc.
the shims arent for preload, they are to line the axle up dead centre with the axle tube, since the axle tube is a casting or welded etc, no 2 are exactly the same.
New bearings have no impact on the shims required to keep the swivle hub (and thus axle) centred with the axle tube.
TEAM DGR WEBSITE
TEAM DGR ON FACEBOOK
Sponsors:
SUPERIOR ENGINEERING
LOCKTUP 4X4
UNIVERSAL DRIVESHAFTS QUEENSLAND
MASSOJET UNDER BODY BUDDY
DIRTCOMP
4WD TV
TEAM DGR ON FACEBOOK
Sponsors:
SUPERIOR ENGINEERING
LOCKTUP 4X4
UNIVERSAL DRIVESHAFTS QUEENSLAND
MASSOJET UNDER BODY BUDDY
DIRTCOMP
4WD TV
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