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GU Specifications

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

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GU Specifications

Post by 5upaMav »

Peoples . . . I am after some detailed specs on early model GUs as it is time to upgrade. Has anyone got any good web sites bookmarked or spec sheets that they would like to share with me?
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Post by big red »

what do ya need to know?
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Re: GU Specifications

Post by bogged »

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Re: GU Specifications

Post by Phill »

bogged wrote:www.holeinthepistons.com


The page cannot be displayed :roll:
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Re: GU Specifications

Post by turps »

Phill wrote:
bogged wrote:www.holeinthepistons.com


The page cannot be displayed :roll:


Thats cos it dont exist. What he is trying to say is that the early 3lt has had issues with killing motors. Nissan have now fittited a bigger sump and/or adjustedthe dipstick so as it holds more oil, so as to cool the pistons better.
Then he will go onto to say the 2.8td is to small a 6cyl to go into such a big truck (but can be brought cheap- so enigine conversion they maybe good for)(can I have the 4.6 diffs if you dont want them).
The 4.5lt petrol was not a real bad motor, works well on LPG (more cost effective if you buy already converted), but has been known to have a drinking problem.
Then it will be passsed on that the TD42(or TD42T-turbo'd) will be the way togo. Strong motor, good for lots of KM's (my TD42 GQ has 450 000km). But he will complain that Nissan want sell him one with an auto.

Overall they are a bit stronger in the drivetrain than the gq's. The outer diemensions are abit bit bigger than a GQ but on the inside about the same size.
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Post by Singo17 »

Turps you forgot the 5th gear probs on the G/B on GU 3.0TDI's and 4.2TD's up too prolly 2003.

Can't tell you when nissan put in the modded output shaft but if it goes Nissan will replace it out of warranty. I should say when it goes.

I think I remember reading somewhere this was an issue on later GQ's as the GB change occured around the last couple of runs of the Model.

Bazzle could prolly tell ya.
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Post by turps »

Thanks Singo forgot about 5th gear. Not a biggy as Nissan are replacing them with little problems.

But overal they are a pretty strong car, may not be as quite as a LC100 but then again my GQ rattles like a bastard so hard to tell.
Have read recentlly that some of the latter models are having problems with the paint on the dashes etc that is starting to rub off (which is very poor).

If I had the coin I would buy one as a family car (already got a swb GQ for play)

And my previous post was meant to have some smily's so here they are but forgot to put them in. :D :D :) :lol: :cool: ;) :roll:
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Post by Singo17 »

turps wrote:Thanks Singo forgot about 5th gear. Not a biggy as Nissan are replacing them with little problems.

But overal they are a pretty strong car, may not be as quite as a LC100 but then again my GQ rattles like a bastard so hard to tell.
Have read recentlly that some of the latter models are having problems with the paint on the dashes etc that is starting to rub off (which is very poor).

If I had the coin I would buy one as a family car (already got a swb GQ for play)

And my previous post was meant to have some smily's so here they are but forgot to put them in. :D :D :) :lol: :cool: ;) :roll:




For the money I would go a GU over LC100 anyday. I would get an 80 series before I bought a Hundgy. The price variation to get into something good in the Hundgy is too great.

You could buy a 2nd hand GU 3.0TDI put in a 6.5l chev, lockers, gears, winch,bar,drawers,tryes, basically the whole shiz and still prolly have some change compared to the new price of a IFS TD hundgy.

The only thing I like about the hundgy's are there Low Range gearing and I prefer the GXL seats. Oh and the Barn doors on the back open wider but only on a DX so it is all vinyl and wind your own fuggin windows, not that this is a biggy for me but if your spending around 40k on a tourer then you would expect to have this shyt.

If I was looking around maybe get myself into a 97' 80 series GXL TD
but these can be hexy still.

If you've got enough money to splurge on a GXL hundgy go a 4.2TDI Patrol though I am would still need alot of convincing why 10,000 extra justify's a better low rev performance but poorer fuel economy over a 3.0TDI.

On the road unmodifyed the 3.0TDI eats the 4.2TD, but the 4.2TD has more head room for performance gains. Towing wise 3.0TDI has more torque so I can't see the argument that just because the 4.2TD has more capacity in litres it therefore would tow better, doesn't make sense and is just dinosoar syndrome much the same as when turboed diesels hit the market nay sayers said they would never take off, same thing with Direct injection TD's.

The 3.0TDi's early history has earned it a bad rep in some circles but they are by far the most popular model. You know why they are cheaper than the 4.2 by a fair margin and when you test drive the both of em on the road the 3.0TDI feels more car like in the drive train and has a bit more poke.

I can't comment alot about the 4.5l Petrol they can be had very cheap 2nd hand for what you get and have huge headroom for making em boogy if that is your thing but the drink alot of juice. Exact figures hard to say, not many people actually own up to real world figures but I have seen 20l per hundge Kay being bandied around. Nice power etc.

Now you might want to get youself into a 4.8l P but they drink even more than a 4.5l but makes lots of mumbo.

For actual technical specs just ask some specific questions you want answered as I think the only web you will find any is at the Nissan site and that is pretty lean on info.
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Post by 5upaMav »

What I was after was some info on the different spec levels, etc. I've only ever owned an MK and then my Mav, so I don't know much about the differences between DXs, STs and TIs. Since I'm looking at models around the 2000 mark, finding relevent details other than the crap posted in the ads in the trading post was a little difficult.

But since I did this post, I did find a helpful PDF on another forum that was dated 22 June 1999 . . . "Nissan launches 4.2 litre Turbo-Diesel Patrol Wagon". Also the CarPoint web site had some useful information and let me do some comparos.

So I guess my question has been asked and answered . . . by myself. I am now eyeing off someting like a 2000 model ST Turbo diesel.
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Post by 5upaMav »

Singo17 wrote:Towing wise 3.0TDI has more torque so I can't see the argument that just because the 4.2TD has more capacity in litres it therefore would tow better, doesn't make sense and is just dinosoar syndrome much the same as when turboed diesels hit the market nay sayers said they would never take off, same thing with Direct injection TD's.


Have you compared the torque curves betweent the 3l and 4.2l? The 3l has a big peak in it and the 4.2 turbos is lovely and flat with max torque available from about 1500rpm. I don't generally tow, but wouldn't that be more useable?? :armsup:
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Post by Singo17 »

5upaMav wrote:
Singo17 wrote:Towing wise 3.0TDI has more torque so I can't see the argument that just because the 4.2TD has more capacity in litres it therefore would tow better, doesn't make sense and is just dinosoar syndrome much the same as when turboed diesels hit the market nay sayers said they would never take off, same thing with Direct injection TD's.


Have you compared the torque curves betweent the 3l and 4.2l? The 3l has a big peak in it and the 4.2 turbos is lovely and flat with max torque available from about 1500rpm. I don't generally tow, but wouldn't that be more useable?? :armsup:


Where can the two curves be found?

I can find the site where it states max performance of the two engines at exactly the same revs.

But I have found this GU 3.0TDI stock and DTRONIC comparo. see below

The stock specs see it making 325nm at 1500rpm of its maximum 354nm.

Now the 4.2Td not the new intercooled model made 330nm peak at 2000rpm.

For 1500 dollars or 1/4 of the additional cost of a 4.2TD you can fit a DTRONIC and have more torque at 1200 rpm than the 4.2TD's peak. At 1500rpm it makes 390nm which is 30nm more than the current 4.2TDI.

I accept the difference in the 800-1000 rpm performance ratings as I have acutally driven both and the 4.2TD feels stronger in this range. Don't forget that the 4.3 ratios to 3.9 on the 4.2TD keeps you in the optimal range once your rolling anyway in the 3.0lTDI.

I have one fitted and can only say in honesty that it keeps pace with the rest of the crowd with a wieght on the back. I was cruising up an incline where I knew it would hold revs and speed to the top of a hill the other week with around 2.0t of additional wieght and a stock 4.2d GQ was in the process of overtaking me at the start of the incline in stock config. he got a car length ahead ran out of steam and ended up 2 car lenghts behind by the time I crested. I never speed up or slowed down just kept it on the ton. So they go just fine towing and in the right rev range hold on really well.

Everyone can say yeah thats just bias, but in reality the only people bitchin about em don't own one (the Rolly brothers never bitched about theirs they just told their story Bruce so before you quote mates of mates)

They have had there problems. I do not like them in low range purely for the fact they have a crap low ratio anyway and the off the mark build up of power and torque doesn't work well enough for my mind. For the most part it is absolutely fine in normal offroad situations but I wouldn't reccommend it for hard core rock hopping. In fact I would'nt go any large wagon for that matter but the 3.0TDI would be second last on my list in front of the 2.8TD.

Don't get me wrong they are still very drivable offroad especially after a Dtronic is fitted but I like being able to feather a diesel to find grip something I luved on the toyota drive and aspirated diesel combo's.

Anyway as I have stated if he is looking in that area what I would choose at the price between 30-40k and that would be a GXL 80 series TD.
Last edited by Singo17 on Mon May 24, 2004 5:31 pm, edited 5 times in total.
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Post by 5upaMav »

Singo17 wrote:Where can the two curves be found?


I actually saw it on some sales brochures that my BIL had b4 he bought his hundred series (silly bugger). Haven't seen it in electronic form since.
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Post by Singo17 »

Sorry dude I edited my post I actually put it up before I intended read above.


The pics dont work but you can see what I am talking about here.


I know I am shaking the apple cart but fark em.

http://www.safari4x4.com.au/dtronic/nissan/sd16.htm
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Post by 5upaMav »

Singo17 wrote:Sorry dude I edited my post I actually put it up before I intended read above.


No probs.


Singo17 wrote:The pics dont work but you can see what I am talking about here.

I know I am shaking the apple cart but fark em.

http://www.safari4x4.com.au/dtronic/nissan/sd16.htm


I don't mind. Everyone has an opionion. Personally I'd rather a Cruiser with one of those luverly DOHC turbo diesels . . . rev like a petrol motor and about 150kw. But sheesh are they expensive.
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Post by Singo17 »

5upaMav wrote:What I was after was some info on the different spec levels, etc. I've only ever owned an MK and then my Mav, so I don't know much about the differences between DXs, STs and TIs. Since I'm looking at models around the 2000 mark, finding relevent details other than the crap posted in the ads in the trading post was a little difficult.

But since I did this post, I did find a helpful PDF on another forum that was dated 22 June 1999 . . . "Nissan launches 4.2 litre Turbo-Diesel Patrol Wagon". Also the CarPoint web site had some useful information and let me do some comparos.

So I guess my question has been asked and answered . . . by myself. I am now eyeing off someting like a 2000 model ST Turbo diesel.



If your looking at around the 2000 mark then I would choose either a 4.2TD or the petrol 4.5. in the ST range. If your keen on a 3.0TDI get one post Nov build 2000 as this is when I believe they fixed the engine probs on the line.

Still keep the 5 speed prob in the back of your mind and check with the owner if buying private or the books I guess at the dealer. I suppose they would be reluctant to admit it depending on how you asked the Q but approached the right way they might cough up.

If all the dealers use a common sealant on the tranny, then having looked at mine there was a red coloured residue around the rear of the case where the sealant was replaced.

Hope this helps
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Post by turps »

Just on the on 5th gear problem, singo can you confrim that when it does go the car is still drivable in the other gears or does it bugger the lot. I realise that there will be a bit of metal crap in the bottom of the csae though.
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Post by Singo17 »

turps wrote:Just on the on 5th gear problem, singo can you confrim that when it does go the car is still drivable in the other gears or does it bugger the lot. I realise that there will be a bit of metal crap in the bottom of the csae though.
.

Yeah still drivable, I drove mine approximately 600kays all up before I could get it fixed on my way over (with a dealers blessing). Where the Gear is located on the output shaft is what goes not the gear itself. You get some funny rotational noise but that I am pretty shure is the gear free wheeling on the shaft. When you went to engage fifth you just get a mild sound of rotational slip the gear it engaged but it just spinning on the output shaft.

I was just popping up through the gears coming out of a town and she just went, no bang just engagement and WHIZ no drive. Not a good feeling when your mid move.

I continually checked the temp of the box by hand not that is was accurate by any means but I thought that if there was any additional friction going on in there then I would be able to notice the diff. But it stayed pretty constant. Nissan were very good about it though the chimp they used to fix it stuffed my 3rd gear syncro and had to go back to get that done as well.
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Post by turps »

AAh the 1st week apprentice strikes again :x
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Post by Singo17 »

turps wrote:AAh the 1st week apprentice strikes again :x


Yeah basically they misaligned it when they stuck the output shaft back in so I am guessing they mashed it into the syncro drum on 3rd and its popped one of those spring thingys that helps mesh the hub and gear or the those other flat bits the springs push out on (names allude a mechanic I aint)

So when I was changing from first second there was a constant pressure on third to engage when in the neutral gate. Bloody thing did it pulling away from the lights changing first to second and it must selectes third at the same time. Bit of a mechanical lock up and huge chirpy at the lights scared this piss outta the bloke behind me and to say the least I was a littel pissed off at that stage but again Nissan were cool about and fixed it.


Sorry don't want to hijack the thread

So what is the decsion. 2000 GU ST but which one?
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Post by 5upaMav »

Singo17 wrote:So what is the decsion. 2000 GU ST but which one?


Prolly the 4.2 turbo oilburner. Prices seem to be right given what the Redbook says and what I have seen in the trading post, etc. Not a heap of them around, tho. Heaps of bloody utes, but wifey doesn't want that. If I can get the right one at the right price, then I'll be able to afford the mods that I want done (lift, exhaust, 33s, winch, airlocker, snorkle initially).

Thanks for your comments on this Singo. Any and all information appreciated. :)
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Post by Singo17 »

5upaMav wrote:
Singo17 wrote:So what is the decsion. 2000 GU ST but which one?


Prolly the 4.2 turbo oilburner. Prices seem to be right given what the Redbook says and what I have seen in the trading post, etc. Not a heap of them around, tho. Heaps of bloody utes, but wifey doesn't want that. If I can get the right one at the right price, then I'll be able to afford the mods that I want done (lift, exhaust, 33s, winch, airlocker, snorkle initially).

Thanks for your comments on this Singo. Any and all information appreciated. :)


They are rare in 2000 as they didn't sell many, I have seen more 1999 and 2002-3 models in the 4.2.

I was looking for one myself when I bought the one I have now but back then you couldn't get into one under 47k-55k second hand. Saw one a while back for 37k had a few kays on it and it was a 99 model. Kays not a prob though.

If your not into frills the DX is easy to make look like an ST on the outside and the right after market turbo + intercooler, engine tune would be better than any of the factory offerings. But I do like the little things on a ST that make it a comfortable tourer. I am a larger bloke and I find the seats not too flash so keep that in mind for after market gear. Some here reckon they are quite comfy but I think they lack side support.
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Post by 5upaMav »

Singo17 wrote:They are rare in 2000 as they didn't sell many, I have seen more 1999 and 2002-3 models in the 4.2.


Yeah, I have found that they are a bit like rockin' horse shit, too. I'd take a 99 model no probs. A mate just bought a 99 ST turbo diesel with a bunch of goodies (33-inch AT, snorkle, dual batteries, glind hot water, lift, winch) for about $42k and 140-odd ks on the clock. Might have to look at 99 models. Shouldn't be a big difference I guess.

There is one for sale somewhere in NSW (saw it in the trading post) for 25-grand. Must be something up with it . . . Im in QLD any way so its a moot point.

Singo17 wrote: If your not into frills the DX is easy to make look like an ST on the outside and the right after market turbo + intercooler, engine tune would be better than any of the factory offerings.


I had actually thought about that . . . but I would really like the airbag that comes with the ST. That is why I started the thread so that I could find out the differences in the specs between models. I'm basically getting rid of two cars and going down to one, so my wife will be in the GU as much as I will. End result . . . ST spec level got the nod.
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Post by roly »

buy my GU , just run in :D


new motor, tcase and gbox
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Post by 5upaMav »

roly wrote:buy my GU , just run in :D
new motor, tcase and gbox

There must be some history here, John. I'm not after a 3-litre, and you prolly said that tongue-in-cheek . . . so I'll just smile and nod. :lol:

Wanna point me to the thread where you discuss just why you had to put a new motor, tcase and gbox in your 00 GU? Did you have the engine melt-down that was not so subtly suggested by Bruce?
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Post by roly »

yes holed a piston at 80,000kms, new engine from nissan

also nuked 5th gear so box was rebuilt by nissan at 60,000kms

tcase - was fully rebuilt at 75,000kms when i put the rockhopper gear set in
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Post by Singo17 »

roly wrote:yes holed a piston at 80,000kms, new engine from nissan

also nuked 5th gear so box was rebuilt by nissan at 60,000kms

tcase - was fully rebuilt at 75,000kms when i put the rockhopper gear set in


Wanna do a T-Case swap? :D
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Post by Grungle »

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Post by roly »

Singo17 wrote:
roly wrote:yes holed a piston at 80,000kms, new engine from nissan

also nuked 5th gear so box was rebuilt by nissan at 60,000kms

tcase - was fully rebuilt at 75,000kms when i put the rockhopper gear set in


Wanna do a T-Case swap? :D


where are you nowadays?
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Post by Singo17 »

roly wrote:
Singo17 wrote:
roly wrote:yes holed a piston at 80,000kms, new engine from nissan

also nuked 5th gear so box was rebuilt by nissan at 60,000kms

tcase - was fully rebuilt at 75,000kms when i put the rockhopper gear set in


Wanna do a T-Case swap? :D


where are you nowadays?



Perth, WA
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Post by Singo17 »

Grungle wrote:I have the full GU specs at:

http://members.optusnet.com.au/~grungle ... tions.html


Have you wieghed your GU with all the kit you have on it by any chance.

So were you happy with the engine enhancements? and the dyno report starts at 1600 +/- 100 rpm was there a second one done?
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