Radiator

Post by **Muddy999** » Tue Jun 01, 2004 9:57 pm

Two questions:

Anyone know what a new radiator for a diesel Rocky (Aus) is worth?

Also anyone know a similar altenative hat would fit with a 'little' fiddling, ie Hilux etc?

Muddy

Website · Post by **murcod** » Wed Jun 02, 2004 8:12 am

If the radiator is anything like the Feroza's they've got big metal brackets on the side of them for mounting onto the body and holding the coolant overflow tank.

IMHO it wouldn't be worth the trouble of trying to adapt another.

Here's what the Feroza one looks like :

Post by **BundyRumandCoke** » Wed Jun 02, 2004 1:02 pm

Muddy, get it recored. One of the Hi Lux cores fits exactly. You will have to go to a decent radiator shop and ask them to cross check the cores. I had a recore done in Cloncurry Qld about 6 years ago, and it was a Hi Lux core fitted. And it must have been a fairly common one, cause he had one in stock at the time.

Post by **Muddy999** » Wed Jun 02, 2004 10:57 pm

It is a top tank issue I have at the current time, however the liquid goes in an off green colour and comes out looking like hearty beef cup-a-soup Hopefully it is just a weld and flush job, however I am preparing for the worst.

Muddy

Post by ***BESTY*** » Thu Jun 03, 2004 1:27 am

Muddy999 wrote:It is a top tank issue I have at the current time, however the liquid goes in an off green colour and comes out looking like hearty beef cup-a-soup Hopefully it is just a weld and flush job, however I am preparing for the worst.

Muddy

Hmmmmmmm............not oily soup is it ??

Sounds like you need a 'head' job :armsup:

Post by **Muddy999** » Thu Jun 03, 2004 8:34 am

Niiice...very nice, I will pay that.

Also no I have not blown a head, I have checked numerous times.

Muddy

Post by **BundyRumandCoke** » Thu Jun 03, 2004 2:40 pm

Muddy, when you flush the system, remove the block drain, at the side rear of the block under the exhaust manifold/turbo. If it is non turbo, it will just be a blanking plug, or drain rooster, if it is turboed it may be one coolant line to the oil cooler, if fitted. Get the fitting out, and have a jab with a screw driver. Every block I have done has been jammed up with gunk and crap. The last one, a turbo with cooler lines was that bad it took a hammer and screwdriver to free it up. It helps with the flush job.

Post by **Muddy999** » Thu Jun 03, 2004 2:49 pm

Thanks for the advice on that, do the guys usually do this when they pressure test and engine (ie if they find probelms?)
Heath

Post by **BundyRumandCoke** » Fri Jun 04, 2004 10:22 pm

A pressure test is just that, a test, they take the radiator cap off, and basically put a pump with a gauge on, and pump the system up, and see if it holds the pressure over a period of time. If you are going to get a flush done by a mechanic, make sure your specify a radiator and block flush. A flush normally only refers to the radiator, but you wont have to worry about that if you get a new core. If you can do it yourself, I would take out the block drain, and pull off the thermostat housing, not just the cover. This allows direct access to the water galleries in the block with a hose. You then have a greater chance of flushing out particles, rather than relying on what you can get through a radiator hose. Push as much water into the block under pressure as you can, and from both directions, the drain plug, and the thermo housing.

Post by **Muddy999** » Sat Jun 05, 2004 8:33 am

Well the radiator is coming out on Sunday evening and it is being sent to the radiator bloke on Monday. I am getting him to pressure test it and he is prtty confident that he can weld the split about the hose for me. I am looking at replacing the hoses and also thermostat whilst I am there. So all I need to do now (after flushing the other points as well) is get a thermo fan and fit it, cause the clutch in the fan has had the richard too.

Thanks for the advice people.
Heath

Website · Post by **murcod** » Sat Jun 05, 2004 10:31 am

Check out the FAQ and you'll find a thread about fitting a thermo fan to a Feroza, complete with pics.

My tip is go to a wrecker and take your old fan shroud with you- use it to find the biggest mother thermo you can. And make sure it's got a shroud on it that will cover most of the radiator. I don't know about the Rocky, but the Feroza is limited in the depth of the fan- only 85mm odd between the radiator and water pump pulley.

Post by **Muddy999** » Sat Jun 05, 2004 10:46 am

http://www.daviescraig.com.au/main/fans ... el&sys2=10

Thermo

They also do clutches, though it is listed as only the 3Y, can anyone tell me if the 3Y engine fan clutch would be compatible with a F75RV diesel Rocky one, before I tear it off and take it in.

Thanks,
Heath.

Post by **Muddy999** » Sat Jun 05, 2004 10:46 am

By the way.... PAD :armsup:

Website · Post by **murcod** » Sat Jun 05, 2004 11:10 am

Yes, I used a Davies Craig on mine initially...... Very expensive and not very efficient due to there not being a shroud around the fan.

Save yourself some money and suss out a wrecker first. I've got a Daewoo Nubira fan on now- it s**ts all the the Davies Craig for air output. Plus the Feroza doesn't overheat anymore either.

Post by **Muddy999** » Sat Jun 05, 2004 4:00 pm

Yup checked with a wrecker and got myself a fan clutch (the viscous one) in good order for mere $50 and $10 P&H. Just for the information of those with Rocky's, I rang Daihatsu for a fan clutch (yeah yeah, I know, I was expecting the heart attack at the price as well). However I was told that they had only a part number, no description and no price. This I was reliably informed by the bloke manning the counter (who I have dealt with before and found to be reliable) means that they no longer stock the part :shock:

So I guess there it is folks, even Daihatsu is not stocking parts anymore. The time to sell the Rocky doth indeed come closer. :bad-words:

Oh and 14 inch Thermo $179
The 'required' switch to run it also another $70.
(Autobarn.)

Muddy

Website · Post by **murcod** » Sat Jun 05, 2004 5:55 pm

I paid around $80 for the Nubira fan (looks like new) and $25 from another wrecker for the thermo switch of a Daihatsu Applause engine (same HD-E engine as the Feroza only FWD set up)

I think Davies Craig make a lot of viscous hubs to suit various vehicles, but they're not cheap. You can buy the silicon fluid and simply refill the hub if you can get it apart too (Toyota sell the fluid- do a search and you'll find the part number)

Post by **4runna** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 2:13 am

Definately go for the option of braising it up if the core looks good.

If you haven't already taken out the radiator then best to give the system a flush now, and a flush after. Saves all that muck flowing into your nicely cleaned radiator from your block and heater core.

Good idea just to replace the fan clutch, the davies craigs are expensive, and electric thermos generally are not as efficient. although you do get more power running them tho

(well there has to be at least 1 upside to everything! )

Rob.

Post by **BundyRumandCoke** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 3:27 am

After a recore, or a good core reaming, and a good block flush, it probably wont overheat anymore.
I did this to my Rocky, then removed the engine driven radiator fan and shroud. I fitted 2 electric fans, one between the intercooler and the radiator, and the other behind the radiator on the diagonally opposite side, and a manual switch. 90% of the time, the fans are not on. Temp gauge sits betwen 1/4 and 1/3. Admittedly, we dont suffer lengthy stop/start traffic, but there is sufficent air flow from driving to keep it cool. The only time the fans are turned on is slow or difficult 4wding, such as beachwork.

Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Radiator

Radiator

Who is online