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Here is what happens. I am on a steep incline and I have to stop for some reason. Over a short period of time my brake pedal eventually 'fades' to the firewall leaving me without brakes Not too bad on small stuff, but scary on the steep stuff
Even during normal braking the pedal is initially soft. A pump or 2 and it is fine
I have bled the brakes - not much difference
Pads are OK.
What am I looking at ? Brake booster, master cylinder, bleed brakes ???
What options do I have in a 40 to 'upgrade' the system ? What will fit with minimal fuss ?
Seals are prolly going on the master or the booster, used to have the same prob with my clutch would sit with the clutch in at the lights and it would slowy engage with the pedal still in
Simple thing first man, get a kit put through the master cylinder. Take it to Weldon Brake and Clutch, cnr of The Boulevarde and Kareena Rd at Taren Point see Peter and he'll have it back to you the next day.
Cheers Chris
Outers & Arms up stickers coming soon you hungry bitches!
If your not leaking fluid from any wheel cylinder, check to see if there is any fluid running down the fire wall or inside the cab where the pedel goes through the fire wall, if so the master cylinder is stuffed bad. The master cylinder (the usual suspect) can also be leaking pressure internally between seals causing the pedal to drop. I would bet money on the master cylinder.
roc70y wrote:Simple thing first man, get a kit put through the master cylinder. Take it to Weldon Brake and Clutch, cnr of The Boulevarde and Kareena Rd at Taren Point see Peter and he'll have it back to you the next day.
Cheers Chris
what $$? it's usually much cheaper to just replace the Master Cylinder
roc70y wrote:Simple thing first man, get a kit put through the master cylinder. Take it to Weldon Brake and Clutch, cnr of The Boulevarde and Kareena Rd at Taren Point see Peter and he'll have it back to you the next day.
Cheers Chris
what $$? it's usually much cheaper to just replace the Master Cylinder
Yeah I had the same problem with the clutch master and it worked out a lot cheaper to just get a new one from repco than to get it rebuilt. Spose it could be different with the brake master though.
the master cylinders toyota uses, especially from this age, are exactly the same as what most brake places sell, the only difference is one has toyota genuine on it and is double the price. When the master on my 60 went i went to toyota, they told me to go to slacks creek brake and clutch, The one they sold me had same brand(will check brand today) and was physically esactly the same as the one i pulled out...
it sounds like it is your master cylinder mate. if there is no fluid being lost anywhere, (fluid level going down?) then its your master, they normally only last about 150k - 200k in normal driving conditions, we did our 60 at 190k and its on its way out again now at 370k.
the rebuild kit is usually about $10-$15 cheaper, but its not worth all the extra work and hassle, just get a brand new one.
I had my master cylinder replaced about a week and a half ago because of the pedal slowly going to the floor....now everything is ok again.....cost of cylinder was $130 plus fitting.
Theres a way to test if the diaphram in the booster has a hole or leak in it. If you are idling and you press down on the brake does the engine idle change? If so id blame the booster for lack of braking. If not then yeah...what everyone else has said. Probably master cylinder.
-Ahab
"I can picture in my mind a world without war, a world without hate. And I can picture us attacking that world, because they'd never expect it." - Jack Handy
in my younger days i got charged 900 bucks for a mech to do the master cylinder (didn't know better) on my 45, and the brakes didn't improve. turned out the slaves were leaking on my drums... another thought, and an experience i learnt from... after taking it back and saying it still don't work, the guy refunded the money, but took back the new master... learnt to do it myself then and there, and fixed it for under 200 (excluding brake fluid)