body blocks..

Post by **robbie** » Mon Jun 07, 2004 11:11 pm

what do you guys prefer, steel or nylon? what would be better for my gq swb & why? never really done a body lift so all feedback/comments welcome

Post by **-Scott-** » Tue Jun 08, 2004 12:01 am

In Queensland the regs mandate metal. I bought aluminium because (they were available and) it's lighter than steel. HDPE appears to be up to the job, and would be lighter again.

Cheers,

Scott

Post by **De-lux** » Tue Jun 08, 2004 4:41 am

my understanding was that it was the opposite of this in qld... it could only be polyutheruaine (piss weak spelling). maybe i fucked up

Post by **HeathGQ** » Tue Jun 08, 2004 7:00 am

Yeah you f***** up. Steel only. Must have approval to do body lift. We just had a club member get done for BL, 35's, no front sway bar, rear seats removed and no mod plate (WTF?????).

Post by **maty** » Tue Jun 08, 2004 9:06 am

not sure about regulation...

steel is good because it will not corrode the body of the vehicle
aluminium and steel together will corrode badly if water or salt get between them - (different E potentials)
HDPE - quite sturdy but it suffers from material creep (the materials sags)
nylon - is firmer than HDPE cheaper and doesnt sag.

also with poly type blocks the car is quieter due to the vibrations being absorbed by the material.

mat

Post by **bundytunna** » Tue Jun 08, 2004 10:19 am

go the nylon blocks
u dont have to run anymore rubber on the top of em like u do with steel and it is heaps easier to make
go to cheezy he can get u a bl kit everything incl for 150 bucks
its easy as to install

Post by **dumbdunce** » Tue Jun 08, 2004 12:21 pm

sort out your suspension and you won't need a body lift, GQ's can go up forever. sure body lifts are cheap and easy but then getting all your barwork fixx0red to match is neither. get a 5 or 6" suspension kit and bolt it on.

Post by **Daisy** » Tue Jun 08, 2004 12:26 pm

dumbdunce wrote:sort out your suspension and you won't need a body lift, GQ's can go up forever. sure body lifts are cheap and easy but then getting all your barwork fixx0red to match is neither. get a 5 or 6" suspension kit and bolt it on.

Theres something about a 4 inch susp lifted and 2 inch body lifted GQ flexing bit more than a 6 inch one - not sure.. read that on another thread somewhere in here.. about springs compressing to the bump stops... anyone correct me - know a bit more info there???

TOM

Post by **dumbdunce** » Tue Jun 08, 2004 12:33 pm

GQ wrote:Theres something about a 4 inch susp lifted and 2 inch body lifted GQ flexing bit more than a 6 inch one - not sure.. read that on another thread somewhere in here.. about springs compressing to the bump stops... anyone correct me - know a bit more info there???

TOM

the rear would go about the same, but the less lift the better for front flex on coil patrols. robbie's only interested in the look of it when he's cruising the main street of Dingley Village though, so it doesn't really matter :finger:

Post by **sw1** » Tue Jun 08, 2004 1:02 pm

unless regs specify (sp??) it go nylon - quiter and smoother

aust 4wd specialists do them for $10 a block - 2 or 3"

Post by **bazzle** » Tue Jun 08, 2004 2:48 pm

When I had mine engineered in Vic he said metal only. Ive used ally on two vehicles. Coat of paint and never had a corrosion problem.
Use HT bolts and nyloc nuts.

bazzle

Post by **Bartso** » Tue Jun 08, 2004 3:49 pm

i have used nylon blocks or what eva they are made of i did the lift my self it was preety easy

Post by **phippsy** » Tue Jun 08, 2004 4:04 pm

Knowing QLD need metal blocks, I wonder if a quick coat of matt black would do??!!

Post by **greenhilux** » Tue Jun 08, 2004 4:19 pm

YOUR ALL WRONG

in qld you can use steel or polyutheruaine(sp?) however, you need a metal sleeve around the bolt when using polyutheruaine.

When having it checking by DOT you mut prove you have the metal sleeve in. hence, taking a block out and showing them, therefore not really worth the effort.

Post by **high n mighty** » Tue Jun 08, 2004 6:18 pm

meh, it seems to all be up in the air. You will never get a firm answer from any two engineers either, just do it what ever way you think will be better for you and if an engineer fails it, move to the next guy

Post by **robbie** » Tue Jun 08, 2004 6:48 pm

greenhilux wrote:YOUR ALL WRONG

in qld you can use steel or polyutheruaine(sp?) however, you need a metal sleeve around the bolt when using polyutheruaine.

who cares, im in VIC.. :roll:

Post by **roverrat** » Tue Jun 08, 2004 7:07 pm

Tell me a copper or insurance assessor is really going to know the diff between painted alloy/steel nylon(straight block) anyways .... :twisted:

Post by **N*A*M** » Tue Jun 08, 2004 7:23 pm

excuse my ignorance, but don't gqs have a risk of the body cracking due to body lifts?

Post by **muddyperils** » Tue Jun 08, 2004 7:51 pm

I was not keen on body lifts either, but, I am sold with them now after working on my transfer case , being able to remove the top cover, stick my head in, and remove that ****** locking shim from the main (PTO) shaft.

Have had the POLY 2.5" lift for four years with no sag, they are choice.

Post by **robbie** » Tue Jun 08, 2004 11:23 pm

N*A*M wrote:excuse my ignorance, but don't gqs have a risk of the body cracking due to body lifts?

didnt you tell me that body lifts are the way to go a while ago?

Post by **moose** » Wed Jun 09, 2004 8:09 am

in regards to N*A*M , yes !!!
early GQ,s only had a single floor skin , later 1,s have a large washer(best term) around the body mount holes !!

they only really cracked around the mounts in the front footwells !!!
& in the LWB , around the rear mounts as well !!

if they do crack , easy fix !!

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