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my drive shaft angle scares me! i want 2 fix it with out lowering crossmember 2 much. do i only need to roll the pinion upwards(longer top arms) or do i need a double cardan joint at the transfer end? people have told me that double cardan joints wrap them self up, but they have never had one. or is there any thing else i can do to kill the vibrations and noise? GQ shorty 5" springs, rancho rs9005's (12") shocks
PM me or give me a buzz in the Morning 0397618111 we do them all the time and there are some tricks you can use. Standard shaft is all you need, and lowering the crossmember is the very last thing you should do.
NOW ABLE TOO SAY WHAT I WANT WITHOUT FEAR OF LOOSING SALES.
The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person doing it.
Im pretty sure that cheezys way has nuthin todo with high pinion centres..........
More so like engine lifts .....raised transfer cross member but lower actual tranny mountin..............and gettin the unis to be bout 5 deg opposing each other ......................
I run 4" tray back springs in the rear and 5"s in the front of my shorty rear originally had lengthen upper arms to rotate pinion up to the bottom joint on My double cardin ........... i actually blew one dc in my trucks first real voyage (only ) still unsure of y it really let go but i now have another ( and another tail shaft has my old one was cactus).................
I know a few people that have wheeled the shite out of there rigs with the same DC with no probs ....but after my initial experience i got worried bout future breakages and decided to find a alternative of which i got pointed in the right direction by TSL off the board .....................im still accessing info on this product but its American metal the new joint is the Cornay joint by bigelow ................the only draw backs is the price but if i had gon this route in the beginnin i would be far less outta pocket considerin im already ova the 1100 dollar mark with my first two shafts, some may well say fuk it but i would rather know that slowly i can stregthen the weekest parts of my rig too the point where i know i can atleast go out wheelin down south to an awesome property and still wheele hard and drive home .......well hopefully
A1MAV wrote:Im pretty sure that cheezys way has nuthin todo with high pinion centres..........
More so like engine lifts .....raised transfer cross member but lower actual tranny mountin..............and gettin the unis to be bout 5 deg opposing each other ......................
I run 4" tray back springs in the rear and 5"s in the front of my shorty rear originally had lengthen upper arms to rotate pinion up to the bottom joint on My double cardin ........... i actually blew one dc in my trucks first real voyage (only ) still unsure of y it really let go but i now have another ( and another tail shaft has my old one was cactus).................
I know a few people that have wheeled the shite out of there rigs with the same DC with no probs ....but after my initial experience i got worried bout future breakages and decided to find a alternative of which i got pointed in the right direction by TSL off the board .....................im still accessing info on this product but its American metal the new joint is the Cornay joint by bigelow ................the only draw backs is the price but if i had gon this route in the beginnin i would be far less outta pocket considerin im already ova the 1100 dollar mark with my first two shafts, some may well say fuk it but i would rather know that slowly i can stregthen the weekest parts of my rig too the point where i know i can atleast go out wheelin down south to an awesome property and still wheele hard and drive home .......well hopefully
Did some SWB Nissan's actually come standard with a double cardin? If not what type do most people use? I exploded a Dana Spicer double cardin on my last trip and was trying to work out the best type of DC to replace it with...
As soon as it was made idiot proof, someone went and designed a better idiot.
John H wrote:Did some SWB Nissan's actually come standard with a double cardin? If not what type do most people use? I exploded a Dana Spicer double cardin on my last trip and was trying to work out the best type of DC to replace it with...
my old mq swb 2.8 petrol had a double cardin joint. think the swb is the only one that had them
2001 pathfinder tjm(nissan ) alloy b/bar hella 160 d/lights ARB h/light loom , ipf d/light loom GME TX3400 UHF , 2 power outlets in back
John H wrote:Did some SWB Nissan's actually come standard with a double cardin? If not what type do most people use? I exploded a Dana Spicer double cardin on my last trip and was trying to work out the best type of DC to replace it with...
my old mq swb 2.8 petrol had a double cardin joint. think the swb is the only one that had them
Utes where the only GQ's to get std DC in the front shaft. The rest just had std uni's
The MK model came with dc joint in the front tail shaft
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Thanks guys, Ive found that some Utes and MQ's come with a DC on the front. Not much use to me as the rear output on the T-case is a lot bigger than the front one. My rig is kinda heavy (2,300kg) with 35's so it needs to be pretty solid. Looks like I'll just get the Spicer DC repaired — will cost $600 but may be the strongest option.
As soon as it was made idiot proof, someone went and designed a better idiot.
John H wrote:Did some SWB Nissan's actually come standard with a double cardin? If not what type do most people use? I exploded a Dana Spicer double cardin on my last trip and was trying to work out the best type of DC to replace it with...
my old mq swb 2.8 petrol had a double cardin joint. think the swb is the only one that had them
My LWB had a front DC standard, but it had the L28, 4 speed & divorced t/case.
Speaking with two owners of other Victorian 4wd workshops this week and neither of them have ever seen a Hi Pinion = BANG.
Both these workshops have built quite a few and i have personally seen and given them a flogging and never known of any to = BANG.
And for whats its worth, dual cardons are not real good on a flexy car. Mine used to bind up on flex and make all sorts of lovely noises, but could've potentially snapped the shaft.
Speaking with two owners of other Victorian 4wd workshops this week and neither of them have ever seen a Hi Pinion = BANG!!!
Both these workshops have built quite a few and i have personally seen and given them a flogging and never known of any to = BANG.
And for whats its worth, dual cardons are not real good on a flexy car. Mine used to bind up on flex and make all sorts of lovely noises, but could've potentially snapped the shaft.
i am running a cardin joint on a home-made, unbalanced shaft, on a car that i am quite sure has alot more wheel travel than your old one, and it is smooth as. fark, my seats are practically welded to the gearbox crossmember, if the shaft was binding and grinding i would know about it
there is good and bad examples of everything.
a badly set up cardin shaft will be just as bad as a badly set up high pinion rear.
Last edited by Wendle on Mon Jun 28, 2004 7:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
Wendle wrote:i am running a cardin joint on a home-made, unbalanced shaft, on a car that i am quite sure has alot more wheel travel than your old one, and it is smooth as. fark, my seats are practically welded to the gearbox crossmember, if the shaft was binding and grinding i would know about it
there is good and bad examples of everything.
a badly set up cardin shaft will be just as bad as a badly set up high pinion rear.
Yeah i do hear what your saying, the cardin joint that i had in mine just seemed physically two big to allow enough movement...... I probably should have said i didn't like MY dual cardin.
getdirty wrote: A double cardon does not have as much physical movement as a single uni....... look at one, try it, you'll see.
Now a CV Driveshaft, thats the stuff you want...... if you can get one strong enough...
Unless you get one of them super fancy DC shafts from the US that allow up to 80 degree's or some crazy shiat of missalignment
Or Cornay Joints ...
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
I run a 5 inch lift with adj top and bottom trailing arms also wit a double card however I had more chances of losing the vib/nosies when I ran the stock tailshaft......however if your lazy the dc is a little easier to get almost vib free...
I put in alot of R and D into my products and most say alitle too much, I put a front into a rear in my mav around 3 years ago and yes it broke. If anyone can prove that a crownwheel and pinion running backwards (throwing oil away from vital parts and running on the back of gears) is strong please show me.
NOW ABLE TOO SAY WHAT I WANT WITHOUT FEAR OF LOOSING SALES.
The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person doing it.
battle wagon, did you end up giving cheezy a call RE your original question? he is one of the most helpful people in the world over the phone, and will sort you out. (use a landline, he hates a chat!)
my drive shaft angle scares me! i want 2 fix it with out lowering crossmember 2 much. do i only need to roll the pinion upwards(longer top arms) or do i need a double cardan joint at the transfer end? people have told me that double cardan joints wrap them self up, but they have never had one. or is there any thing else i can do to kill the vibrations and noise? GQ shorty 5" springs, rancho rs9005's (12") shocks 
) still unsure of y it really let go but i now have another ( and another tail shaft has my old one was cactus).................
