If so any issues? especially concerning engineering (if done
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Rear Disc brake conversion
Moderator: GUtripper
Rear Disc brake conversion
Anyone here done a rear disc brake conversion on thier Jeep?
If so any issues? especially concerning engineering (if done)
If so any issues? especially concerning engineering (if done
)Cheers [url=http://www.wooders.com.au]Wooders[/url]
sir_camel wrote:And my slotted fronts are warped too.
Any idea what brand they are? Any idea how they got warped?
I'm just about to buy a set and I'd rather not have that problem.....
As for the rear I know Snake Racing are offering a kit....But I was wondering who had done it (kit or not) and level of satification with the results.
Maybe any issues....either with conversion or engineering...
Cheers [url=http://www.wooders.com.au]Wooders[/url]
I believe they are DBA, and have been told by the people who fitted them (6 months ago, 10000km ago) that it was due to extreme cooling of them. As in i was driving down a steep hill somewhere hard on brakes (damn auto) and then did a river crossing and this screwed em. Still thought they should be a bit more resistant than that. So now everytime i brake the brake pedal pulses.
Gordo had a conversion my KAOS in ACT.
Gordo had a conversion my KAOS in ACT.
Wooders I priced the Koas kit (I assume that's the Snake Racing one)...it was $$$$$$$$$ - especially when I've seen on JU that it doesn't seem to be that heard to do.
But then I suppose they need to make sure its all engineered and working before the sell it.
But then I suppose they need to make sure its all engineered and working before the sell it.
Apparently people think I'm too patronising (that means I treat them like they’re stupid).
Hmm interesting SC.....I guess that could happen with any disc too....but always disappointing when it happens. Problem always exists with a hot rigs being dipped into cool water i guess.....
Ben, Yeah as I understand Kaos is selling the Snake Racing kit.
As for "road-worthy" I understand getting it engineered is always the owners responsibility, even if they delegate (pay) a shop to arrange it - and thus as a result is not implicedly included with the product.
Also as I understand part of the issue with getting it engineered is having a seperate handbrake system?
Ben, Yeah as I understand Kaos is selling the Snake Racing kit.
As for "road-worthy" I understand getting it engineered is always the owners responsibility, even if they delegate (pay) a shop to arrange it - and thus as a result is not implicedly included with the product.
Also as I understand part of the issue with getting it engineered is having a seperate handbrake system?
Cheers [url=http://www.wooders.com.au]Wooders[/url]
http://www.jeepsareus.com/Merchant2/mer ... =Wrangler1
This is another option. Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Dana 44 rear disc brakes.
This is another option. Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Dana 44 rear disc brakes.
I have some pics.
I will find some pics of a simple swap I did on a 00 TJ/Wrangler.
It's easy to play, but hard to learn!
Re: I have some pics.
ODD BALL wrote:I will find some pics of a simple swap I did on a 00 TJ/Wrangler.
+ details!! what did you use?! i like "simple"
Re: I have some pics.
Thor wrote:ODD BALL wrote:I will find some pics of a simple swap I did on a 00 TJ/Wrangler.
+ details!! what did you use?! i like "simple"
Ditto - But also append "inexpensive"
Cheers [url=http://www.wooders.com.au]Wooders[/url]
The ZJ/ZG has discs all the way around.
Don't - DON'T go to slotted discs on a 4by - asking for trouble with warping due to slots and un-even cooling/heating characteristics. DBA are an OK rotor, but use the smooth disk. Stopping before water crossings is always a good idea (very good idea) but driving in the rain will do a similar thing.
And the conversion done by GOJEEP is well worth while.
Don't - DON'T go to slotted discs on a 4by - asking for trouble with warping due to slots and un-even cooling/heating characteristics. DBA are an OK rotor, but use the smooth disk. Stopping before water crossings is always a good idea (very good idea) but driving in the rain will do a similar thing.
And the conversion done by GOJEEP is well worth while.
Non-funded retiree.
Had the KAOS kit on my 97 TJ for about a year now and I bloody love it !
Hadn't had a hand brake since I got 33's years ago and offroad braking in lo-range was pretty shyte too but this fixed all that.
The Kaos kit uses a combo of locally available ford brake parts which are then modified (as many local home made kits do) but also uses custom alloy bearing preload spacers and brake line extensions to polish off what is a really well put together kit.
If I sould a little bias it's coz I helped devloped their install docco
I was a little apprehensive at first about the hand brake assembly as it hangs a little low but I need not have feared. 12km of rock crawling during the OBC left it alive and well. In fact I've yet to have a problem of any sort. Even changing axle seals is still just as easy as stock.
I run 35" mtrs & 34" swampers with dba slots on the front and they work really well with the rear discs. Other bits : no proportioning valve was required. You also get a mild track increase requiring the use of longer ford studs (cheaper and easier to source than jeep too).
Haven't had my engineered so can't provide any feedback on that sorry.
AFAIK KAOS developed and fit the kit and snake manufacture the alloy bits required.
If you have q's about my TJ's performance with it's disc convo pm/email me or contact the guys direct at KAOS-www.kaos4x4.com.au
I don't blatantly plug 4x4 businesses for whatever reason unless I've had a really good experience and this is one ! Definately worth the $$.
Hadn't had a hand brake since I got 33's years ago and offroad braking in lo-range was pretty shyte too but this fixed all that.
The Kaos kit uses a combo of locally available ford brake parts which are then modified (as many local home made kits do) but also uses custom alloy bearing preload spacers and brake line extensions to polish off what is a really well put together kit.
If I sould a little bias it's coz I helped devloped their install docco
I was a little apprehensive at first about the hand brake assembly as it hangs a little low but I need not have feared. 12km of rock crawling during the OBC left it alive and well. In fact I've yet to have a problem of any sort. Even changing axle seals is still just as easy as stock.
I run 35" mtrs & 34" swampers with dba slots on the front and they work really well with the rear discs. Other bits : no proportioning valve was required. You also get a mild track increase requiring the use of longer ford studs (cheaper and easier to source than jeep too).
Haven't had my engineered so can't provide any feedback on that sorry.
AFAIK KAOS developed and fit the kit and snake manufacture the alloy bits required.
If you have q's about my TJ's performance with it's disc convo pm/email me or contact the guys direct at KAOS-www.kaos4x4.com.au
I don't blatantly plug 4x4 businesses for whatever reason unless I've had a really good experience and this is one ! Definately worth the $$.
97 TJ [i]Goatsack[/i]
Gordo, I read with intrest your most favourable report about the disk brake kit on your Jeep. Truth be known, I think you are biased, in fact grossly biased -- you think everything on your Jeep is good. You even think having dual Detroits is good. You are a deluded fool. I think Ford eleven inch drums are much better. And you are also wrong about the 12km of rockcrawling in the 2004 ARB Warn Outback Challenge, that was rockracing, not crawling! 
Rear disc conversions for a TJ. Well, there are several ways to go. Here's a couple-
Ford Explorer rotors will work with the ZJ backing plates as will the explorer calipers. That will let you use the ZJ e-brake cables which are the same length as the TJ ones, the advantage being that they now move over the top of the axle to allow more droop without being too tight.
The issue used to be that you needed a custom retainer like the one on the left, that is now stock on the 02 and up with the D-44 with rear discs, resembling the factory piece on the right.
No longer an issue and the part is quite reasonable even in OZ duckets. The reason for the retainer is to compensate for the difference in thickness betwixt the stamped steel backing plate and the much thicker cast caliper bracket off of the ZJ and now 02 and up TJ.
Here is a pic of the TJ set up from the 02 and up with rear discs-
That is a loaded backing plate straight from the dealer. Notice that all hardware is there and assembled. Also notice the stainless steel overriders on the caliper slides. That little detail lets you run the explorer pads and calipers which should be cheap and plentiful. (maybe)
What you don't want to do is run the TJ rear calipers. They are way too expensive and rare in salvage yards. The overriders stop you from using the ZJ rear calipers. I may have to double-check that by seeing if they fit with the overriders. I do know that the explorer stuff works though.
In a nutshell, what you want are the explorer discs or ZJ, TJ discs which ever is the most cost effective.
Explorer calipers and pads
ZJ e-brake cables which plug right into either the explorer backing plates or the TJ plates. The TJ plates bolt right up and all the others have to be modified by enlarging the center hole or welding up and redrilling the housing end bolt pattern(ford stuff).
and finally, the factory TJ with rear disc backing plates. When I bought them, they were less than 100 USD for each side. Note that the hardware, springs and e-brake shoes are included and are worth about 100 USD on their own if you have to buy them separate. Usually the case with salvage ZJ plates as the rust has rendered them useless.
Final note if I haven't made it clear is that the ZJ plates have to be modified to work. Minor, but of consideration. TJ with the correct retainers bolts right up with slightly longer bolts which I easily made by doing as the factory did and grinding a flat on one side of the head of a grade 8 bolt.
Ford Explorer rotors will work with the ZJ backing plates as will the explorer calipers. That will let you use the ZJ e-brake cables which are the same length as the TJ ones, the advantage being that they now move over the top of the axle to allow more droop without being too tight.
The issue used to be that you needed a custom retainer like the one on the left, that is now stock on the 02 and up with the D-44 with rear discs, resembling the factory piece on the right.
No longer an issue and the part is quite reasonable even in OZ duckets. The reason for the retainer is to compensate for the difference in thickness betwixt the stamped steel backing plate and the much thicker cast caliper bracket off of the ZJ and now 02 and up TJ.
Here is a pic of the TJ set up from the 02 and up with rear discs-
That is a loaded backing plate straight from the dealer. Notice that all hardware is there and assembled. Also notice the stainless steel overriders on the caliper slides. That little detail lets you run the explorer pads and calipers which should be cheap and plentiful. (maybe)
What you don't want to do is run the TJ rear calipers. They are way too expensive and rare in salvage yards. The overriders stop you from using the ZJ rear calipers. I may have to double-check that by seeing if they fit with the overriders. I do know that the explorer stuff works though.
In a nutshell, what you want are the explorer discs or ZJ, TJ discs which ever is the most cost effective.
Explorer calipers and pads
ZJ e-brake cables which plug right into either the explorer backing plates or the TJ plates. The TJ plates bolt right up and all the others have to be modified by enlarging the center hole or welding up and redrilling the housing end bolt pattern(ford stuff).
and finally, the factory TJ with rear disc backing plates. When I bought them, they were less than 100 USD for each side. Note that the hardware, springs and e-brake shoes are included and are worth about 100 USD on their own if you have to buy them separate. Usually the case with salvage ZJ plates as the rust has rendered them useless.
Final note if I haven't made it clear is that the ZJ plates have to be modified to work. Minor, but of consideration. TJ with the correct retainers bolts right up with slightly longer bolts which I easily made by doing as the factory did and grinding a flat on one side of the head of a grade 8 bolt.
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