Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user. If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Down the local 4x4 shop looking at a 6" suspension lift package for my LWB GQ. (Springs/shocks/castor plates/panhards/etc)
Store guy said that 6" is do-able, however it almost max's out the steering members in terms of operating angles etc.
He advised a 4" susp lift + 2" body a better way to go, w.r.t. the steering member operating angles.
Obviously 6" can be done, as lots of guys are running them, but does it really push the steering capabilities to its limits? Im guessing that running more extreme angles associated with the 6" lift will potentially wear things out quicker, and increase breakage risk (I believe this to be true for driveline components as well).
Is this true/bulls**t or somewhere inbetween?
Having said all that, Id still like to go 6" simply becuase I can
I have a 6" lift in my GQ LWB, my old man has a 6" lift in his GU LWB, we have had these installed for well over 12 months, and to this date, hav not broken any steering component, nor is there any sings of wear that may indicate replacement.
it is true that there are increased steering linkage angles, but its not, bad, ad a 5 link and look at the extra travel, that would have to add more stress to the linkages than just having the 6" springs,
in my opinion, it comes down that what you want, and will suit you best.
is because of the angle the steering an panhard bars are changed to
put simply , the panhard bar is way less affective
therefore makes the GQ wobble much worse
add a 5link , and it shows up even more
its still drivable , and each truck will b different
its just a warning they give u
just depends whether u can put up with the wobble or not
personal preference i spose
my rig had 6inch lift an 3inch body for prob 5yrs
it was only 2yrs of that it became sorta unbearable because the added affects of a 5link
THe main reason I wanted to run 6" was to get 35" (or 36") without scrubbing, AND keeping it legal. Trawling the posts here indicated I would get scrubbing with 4" and normal guards and rims.
(I was advised that at the moment I can still get a 6" lift to pass given the right enginneer and completion of swerve test here in WA).
I looked at trimming the guards, or running more offset on my rims (ie Toyota or custom jobbies) but was trying to keep it simple (and cheaper) for now. Also running wider track on std axles is another engineering/leaglity hassle altogether.
Given your feedback, Im off to investigate getting a 4" susp, 2" body lift legal here in WA.
THe main reason I wanted to run 6" was to get 35" (or 36") without scrubbing, AND keeping it legal. Trawling the posts here indicated I would get scrubbing with 4" and normal guards and rims
I get scrubbing with 33's and a 6inch lift. 35's worse.
bazzle wrote:i have standard springs and 39"s and the fawking front tyres are rubbing on the radiator at full flex
Dont worry the water will lube the rubber
Bazzle
that is what i was hoping for.
back to the original question, 6" is getting kinda nasty on a few items. the difference in the operating angle of the draglink and panhard starts to get pretty bad, if you have a reasonable amount of down travel left, the ball joints on the drag link get close to being maxed out, and if they are already a bit sloppy, they will get real loose real quick. same with panhard and radius arm bushes.
you can run the tyres you want with less lift with a bit of small wheelbase adjustment.
I know at the front you can run radius arm spacer bushes to move the axle fwd an inch or so, and center it better in the wheel well (think I saw Mannel sell em') but to the best of my knowledge they are not street legal.
Im not aware of another method of front axle relocation short of a re-welding mounts which starts to get complicated quickly.
As for the rear??? Offset bushes in trailing arms? Other suggestions?
I know I could engineer and rego the car and then put the spacer bushes in but I want to keep it all above board if I can.
I speak from the experience of having had a couple of kits in my GU coil cab:
* First setup = 4" King springs and 2" body lift, Koni shocks. I ran 35's (Cooper STs on road) with this and had little to no rubbing. I had Q78's off-road and this was probably the best set up the car's had.
* Setup now = 6" Dobinson spring, 2" body lift, heaps of front guard trimming, castor plates, custom trailing arms. I can now run 42's but the thing doesn't have anywhere near the stability that I used to.
I run 37" Xterrains on road and generally use 38.5 Boggers off-road. IMO my ute sits too high and if the ski season hadn't come around so quickly (I work up here while the rest of you guys play!) I would have dropped the 4" springs and koni shocks back in.
If you are going to do any sort of road miles, I would look to something other than a Rancho - just my opinion but I don't think that they are the shock for lots of high speed 'twisty' driving . . . they just don't cope with the weight of a Patrol.
I've attached a photo of my rig on 37's on . . . 37's don't look huge and 35's look like cheese cutters.
I'm not very good looking, so I guess I better be useful . . .
Butt Craic wrote:I speak from the experience of having had a couple of kits in my GU coil cab:
* First setup = 4" King springs and 2" body lift, Koni shocks. I ran 35's (Cooper STs on road) with this and had little to no rubbing. I had Q78's off-road and this was probably the best set up the car's had.
* Setup now = 6" Dobinson spring, 2" body lift, heaps of front guard trimming, castor plates, custom trailing arms. I can now run 42's but the thing doesn't have anywhere near the stability that I used to.
I run 37" Xterrains on road and generally use 38.5 Boggers off-road. IMO my ute sits too high and if the ski season hadn't come around so quickly (I work up here while the rest of you guys play!) I would have dropped the 4" springs and koni shocks back in.
If you are going to do any sort of road miles, I would look to something other than a Rancho - just my opinion but I don't think that they are the shock for lots of high speed 'twisty' driving . . . they just don't cope with the weight of a Patrol.
I've attached a photo of my rig on 37's on . . . 37's don't look huge and 35's look like cheese cutters.
Nice Rig how bout postin up some action shots in members
mmmmmmmmmmmm GU TRAY if i only had enough $$$$$$$$$$
the GU has a much bigger wheel arch than a GQ , so u cant compare it so much......for tyre size / rubbing etc
and
the rancho's most use....9012's etc.......altho we run them in a single setup on the nissans.......if u talk to the guys at rancho , u will b informed they were actually designed to b run in a twin setup
therefore not designed to carry as much load
saying that
u get used to the height an the way the car drives
an can still throw it thru winding corners while the door handles r almost scraping.........ONCE U KNOW HOW IT HANDLES......not before
A1MAV wrote:Nice Rig how bout postin up some action shots in members
mmmmmmmmmmmm GU TRAY if i only had enough $$$$$$$$$$
Will hunt through my photos and see if there are any worth putting together for a thread in the members section. I mainly wheel with only 1 other guy on his private property these days so I don't have a heap of good action photos.
Start saving . . . . mine is/was kind of for sale. I advertised around Easter time and had a couple of guys from Brisvegas interested but ended up having to go O/S with work and the ski season snuck up on me way too quickly.
I'm not very good looking, so I guess I better be useful . . .
Im in WA so if you want you can have a look at my set up im running 4 inch kings with Rancho 9000s have moved my shock mounts to get more travel as they were limiting wheel travel put in longer bump stops trimmed the front and rear guards run a 3 1/4 body lift running 35 BFG Muds on road and now 38 TSLs for play also running 5 link front with heavy duty panhards adjustable and heavy duty adjustable control arms put taperd tubes in the top of the rear coil munts so when they drop out at max articulation the springs will go back in to the correct position i now get no rubbing at full artic opposite front and rear coils are completly compressed very happy just got to do something about the drag link angle as at full droop im sure it binds the ball joint up
