URGENT: Need help with 2.85 install in Gen I with 5-spd

[MontyMcV]

G'day down under:

I have a set of gears going into my [US] 87 (86 for you) SWB. I got things apart readily. Well, I should have know something this bold was going too smooth at the onset. Major obstacle tonight...

For the standard disassembly of the t-case, the whole output shaft assembly pulls out of the case together with the front output shaft, and with the chain still on between them. I am having a problem now with the putting it back together in that once on the output shaft, the new low gear will not fit through the hole (a bearing raceway) that the old gear came out through. This is a great problem.

It may be possible for me to feed the output shaft in with the low gear and the hi/lo clutch hub on the other side of the hole. Actually, I know I can do that. It's getting the snap ring on that holds the clutch hub that is a challenge. There really isn't enough room to get the snap ring pliers in between the clutch hub and the input gear to get the ring on. I have a couple of ideas that may make the difference.

I'm not sure this will ultimately work though as the two output shafts seem to have to go back in together with the chain between them. The chain has side plates that keep it from sliding off its gears. And there is certainly not enough slack in it to get those side plates over the gears. So there is no way I can see to put the chain on with one shaft in first.

Does anyone know much about the differences between the M/T t-case and the A/T t-case? I'm wondering if there is any chance that the front large bearing for the output shaft is larger and if I got the wrong gears. Otherwise, I don't know what the hell to try?

I suppose I could try what I was thinking about above, feeding the shaft in with the gear on the other side, only doing it with the front shaft and chain in place at the same time.

My motor should be done Friday and I wanted to get the drivetrain in this weekend. Damn this sucks. It was all looking so great!

Who of you has done it?


Thanks,
Bill

[-Scott-]

Look here: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=14445

There is a post from wolfe about half way down, dated May 6, with what appears to be the same problem. Frank had a suggestion, and wolfe found a different solution.

Good luck,

Scott

[Bitsamissin]

Bill the solution is to grind back a set of snap ring pliers so it will fit in the 2-3mm gap, we had to do this on Lloyd's & Patrick's cases.
Once you do it once it's very easy.
Unfortunately some Gen 1 cases have a smaller centre bearing so the new (bigger) low gear won't fit through you have to assemble it the way you are but just machine down the snap ring pliers so they can get to the snap ring to lock it down.
Wolf ended up having the low gear machined to fit through the bearing hole = DO NOT DO THIS PLEASE as you will take off the case hardening.
Also remember once the case is assembled you have to grind about 5mm off the high/low selector fork so it will clear the larger low gear when in low range.
Let me know if you need anymore help.

Frank.

[MontyMcV]

Frank:

Thanks a ton. The plier grinding is pretty much what I was thinking about. That and maybe bevel the edge of the case hole so the gear can slide back just a bit to give more room. The bearing has a rounded edge to its outer ring and a slight bevel would not even reach it I don't think.

Where on the fork should I gind? Will it be obvious once it is together? I'm guessing so as it won't make the H/L shift. Any preference on what to grind with. Die grinder?

Thanks

[Bitsamissin]

Bill the snap ring pliers are the way to go it's even easier if you have a second person just holding the hub up to keep the maximum gap once you get a grip on that snap ring you will be fine.
I'm not 100% sure about a Gen 1 5sp but certainly the Gen 1 auto needs the selector fork machined back about 5mm to clear the new low gear. The selector fork moves a synchro ring over the hub gear to engage low range in this position the fork is touching the low gear in the auto. Again a Gen 2 5sp clears it just fine but I'm not sure about a Gen 1.
You will see what I mean when you put insert the selector fork when you do just select low range and spin the centre shaft and check the clearance.

[MontyMcV]

It looks to me like I will be able to get the snap ring onto the shaft and almost to its groove. From there a nudge with a narrow screwdriver would move into place. My concern then is that if I have to get to it again to take it off. That, as much as anything, where I was coming from on the bevel the hole idea.

Yes, four hands will definitely be better than two for this one!

I think I get you on the fork. It isn't the fork itself in terms of the [clutch ring], but some outer edge/part of the fork may now bump up against the bigger gear. I'll do a full test fit without the snap ring to check.

Thanks again.

[wolfe]

Hi MontyMcV

to machine the fork I used a normal handgrinder (diameter 100-125mm so its allmost the ideal form for the outputgear wich needs more space) it is only a round with a deep of 3mm you have to work out . I look at my spares. I think I have a machined fork from a standard Montero Gen I 5speed. The fork didn´t fit to my delica gear cause the delica fork is sligtly different. So I had to do another one. If I find it I´ll send you a pic.

Wolf

[MontyMcV]

Wolfe:

Thanks. I worked on it the night before last and I think I'm in good shape. I fitted the output shaft, gears, and all, just without that bugger of a snap ring. Got the fork all set it looks. I can spin the gear and no rubbing.

I'm hoping to put the t-case together this weekend. This would be good as I picked up my rebuilt turbo Starion motor yesterday.

[DougH]

Frank,

When is the next run of these gears happening?

[MontyMcV]

Success! The shaved down snap ring pliers and a second set of hands did the trick. Thanks to Frank and all for the input.

Now on to the motor...

[Bitsamissin]

Great Bill let us know how they go.
You can do ma write up for Phil (Trail Talk) if you want

Dougie, there are still 2 auto sets available and a few 5sp left.
The 3.5 V6 gears are the priority now.

[J Top]

Hi Frank
Whats the KIWI trade discount on a manual set.?
Whats the price before the kiwi $ drops any further against yours.
J Top

[Bitsamissin]

$1100 Aus.................