Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.

FJ40 P/Steer & Disc Brakes Conversion

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX

Post Reply
Resident Terrorist
Posts: 4278
Joined: Fri May 21, 2004 9:37 am
Location: Driving Barnsey's mum to bingo

FJ40 P/Steer & Disc Brakes Conversion

Post by RAY185 »

Hey guys, I know this has probably been done to death but here goes.

I want to upgrade the front drum brakes on my 1975 FJ40 to discs and wouldnt mind fitting power steering while I'm at it.

I have a mate wrecking a HJ60 so I can get everything I need off this rig....at a price obviously.

So what exactly do I need off the HJ60 and is there anything else I need to pick up to do the conversion?

Thanks in advance for the help.
Posts: 510
Joined: Fri Mar 26, 2004 7:58 pm
Location: vic

Post by mudtoy »

Ok, depending on how much your mate will charge you...maybe look at toyota crown or cresida power steering. Mine was $120 from a wrecker and came with box, pump, all lines and cooler, cheap! You will need to match up/modify the idler arm and make up mounts for the front inside right chassis rail. You will also need a FJ55 steering column and shaft with unis. The steering arm will swap straight in and the shaft will need to be lengthened (this can be done with the rod from the 40 steering column).
The disc brake swap is far more straight forward but keep in mind that the tierod ends on 60 steering are larger than on a 40.
I am currently half way through a rear disc conversion which incorporates widening the wheel track by 3 inches...40s rock.
www.4wdtv.com.au
SPOA FJ40, 400hp stroker, ARB locked x2, Silverstones, Superwinch, Narva lights, EFS springs, 1284 RTI...
Posts: 5179
Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2003 8:15 pm
Location: Brisbane Australia

Post by Shadow »

mudtoy wrote:Ok, depending on how much your mate will charge you...maybe look at toyota crown or cresida power steering. Mine was $120 from a wrecker and came with box, pump, all lines and cooler, cheap! You will need to match up/modify the idler arm and make up mounts for the front inside right chassis rail. You will also need a FJ55 steering column and shaft with unis. The steering arm will swap straight in and the shaft will need to be lengthened (this can be done with the rod from the 40 steering column).
The disc brake swap is far more straight forward but keep in mind that the tierod ends on 60 steering are larger than on a 40.
I am currently half way through a rear disc conversion which incorporates widening the wheel track by 3 inches...40s rock.


what dif are you using for rear discs? or are you modifying the hubs?
Posts: 510
Joined: Fri Mar 26, 2004 7:58 pm
Location: vic

Post by mudtoy »

I run 60 series diffs with the SPOA. Rear disc conversion...80 series hubs for 1.5 inch offset each side, 70 series rear ventilated discs (sits straight over hub for easy removal) and possibly 60 series calipers. Would prefer to go XF rear calipers with handbrake but have to match up rotor width.
www.4wdtv.com.au
SPOA FJ40, 400hp stroker, ARB locked x2, Silverstones, Superwinch, Narva lights, EFS springs, 1284 RTI...
Posts: 65
Joined: Tue May 18, 2004 10:27 pm
Location: Riverland S.A.

Post by Frostyboy »

Hey Mudtoy,
What year was was the Crown/Cressida that you got the P/S bits from?This sounds interesting.
Mark
Posts: 510
Joined: Fri Mar 26, 2004 7:58 pm
Location: vic

Post by mudtoy »

What year? Crown, Cressida...what ever you can get...from memory I used crown as it is slightly bigger than the cressida...but just get to a wrecking yard and check it out.

If you don't have a body lift (I don't) you will also need to cut a circle out of the bottom of the front panel (under the head light) so that the steering shaft can pass out above the chassis rail and meet with the box.

To mount the box I used a 10mm piece of plate, drilled and tapped three holes to match the box and then welded the plate to the inside chassis rail.

I have had this setup for over a year now and it is awesome. Recently won the mud racing season down here, drive it most days and when it's not in shows, it's being hammered on tracks.

You can see a pic of it at www.nie.edu.au/MTR.htm
www.4wdtv.com.au
SPOA FJ40, 400hp stroker, ARB locked x2, Silverstones, Superwinch, Narva lights, EFS springs, 1284 RTI...
Resident Terrorist
Posts: 4278
Joined: Fri May 21, 2004 9:37 am
Location: Driving Barnsey's mum to bingo

Post by RAY185 »

Thanks for the reply Mudtoy. So given that everything is available to me at the right price off the 60 series, can I use the 60 series box, pump, steering column, hoses etc? I'm told that the linkages will have to be 75 series for width.
Posts: 15549
Joined: Tue Oct 22, 2002 9:23 am
Location: Your Mummas House!

Post by bj on roids »

RAY185 wrote:Thanks for the reply Mudtoy. So given that everything is available to me at the right price off the 60 series, can I use the 60 series box, pump, steering column, hoses etc? I'm told that the linkages will have to be 75 series for width.


dude it is fairly simple, ive done it three or four times now, there is a number of wys to go about it. Get all the steering off the 60 series, from the steering wheel to the arms that bolt to the top of the diff. this will make your conversion easier and cheaper.
hands and mums dont count!!!
Resident Terrorist
Posts: 4278
Joined: Fri May 21, 2004 9:37 am
Location: Driving Barnsey's mum to bingo

Post by RAY185 »

Thanks bj. Let me know when u are free to give me a hand mate. :lol:

Any tips on the brakes?
Posts: 1513
Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2003 8:06 pm
Location: North East Melbourne

Post by ORSM45 »

yeah use all the 60 series bits.

get 75series tie rod and arms. (or just put the 60 series axles in, extra 3 inches track, disc brakes already)

will have to move the shock tower rearward a few inches. (to the other side of the shock.) and grind a bit off the back of it.

then mount box. i found mounting the box after the shock tower easier as you can sit the box on and see where the unis and shocker sit.

drill 4 holes. put crush tubes if your going through both sides of the chassis rail or brace the chassis if you only go through 1 side

do a search for the disc brake conversion. there was a thread not long ago on it.

MaccA
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests