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Isuzu diesel questions??
Moderator: Micka
Isuzu diesel questions??
I know the 4BD1 was used in various rover products over the years. What I am curious about is...
What transmissions were they used with?
How were they adapted to these transmissions?
How were the frames different than the frames for other engines?
How difficult would it be to modify a frame set up for a 2.25L to accept a 4BD1?
If I had the correct transmission and adapter, could I bolt up a 4BD1T from a later model Isuzu truck?
Thanks... trying to figure out how to spend my money on this drivetrain swap!
What transmissions were they used with?
How were they adapted to these transmissions?
How were the frames different than the frames for other engines?
How difficult would it be to modify a frame set up for a 2.25L to accept a 4BD1?
If I had the correct transmission and adapter, could I bolt up a 4BD1T from a later model Isuzu truck?
Thanks... trying to figure out how to spend my money on this drivetrain swap!
Adam
1964 Land Rover 88", modifications in progress
1964 Land Rover 88", modifications in progress
In Australia, they attached it to the LT95 and LT85 on 110s. I also believe that the Series 3s (Stage 1s) used the LT95, but my memory could be failing me. The bellhousings, etc.. were custom made for the application.... And no longer available. A friend in Gladstone converted his 110 V8/LT95 to a 4BD1. The engine he found at a good price. He spent a large amount of effort tracking down all the bits to modify the gearbox. This was a couple of years back. Anywho, others on here surely know more than me, so I'll be quiet now.
You might want to read this:
http://www.collegeinternetsolutions.com/cisautoweb/dtlc/4bd.html
"Isuzu makes an adapter that allows SAE #3 bell housings to be used therefore you can use GM trannies. However, the Isuzu part is now discontinued (as is the 4BD1T, it's now been replaced with the 4BD2T engine (which has higher output & is electronically controlled). Otherwise, the bellhousing pattern of the Isuzu 4BD is a Sae #3 (same as a Chevy 350), but with the bolt holes rotated about 15-20 degrees."
You might want to read this:
http://www.collegeinternetsolutions.com/cisautoweb/dtlc/4bd.html
"Isuzu makes an adapter that allows SAE #3 bell housings to be used therefore you can use GM trannies. However, the Isuzu part is now discontinued (as is the 4BD1T, it's now been replaced with the 4BD2T engine (which has higher output & is electronically controlled). Otherwise, the bellhousing pattern of the Isuzu 4BD is a Sae #3 (same as a Chevy 350), but with the bolt holes rotated about 15-20 degrees."
Yep you are correct John,
The SIII Stage1 had a 4BD1 (85bhp) with an LT95 from 1982-1984
The 110 had a 4BD1 (99bhp) with an LT95 from 1984-1986 and an LT85 5-speed (which I have) from 1986-1989 (when they stopped making them).
The 6x6 (military and civillian (not many) had the 4BD1T and LT95. The military 4x4 Land Rovers had a 4BD1 and LT95 (they all had the 85bhp version the same as the trucks).
From my post in this thread http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=21248
The 4BD1T has alfin pistons and an oil spray bar to spray oil on the bottom of the pistons for cooling. Turboing a NA 4BD1 isn't hard because in a Land Rover they don't work nearly as hard as in a truck. The one I mentioned before has been fitted with an aftermarket turbo and has been going for years with no problems. I will turboing mine when I get back to Australia.
The only problem with the truck motor is the sump, flywheel and oil filter are different to the landrover version. And the starter and alternator will probably be 24V.
So - as well as getting a bellhousing made you need to:
Buy an upwards facing oil filter (downward facing interferes with the propshaft). Possibly modiy the sump (not sure) and the Land Rover sump holds an extra litre of oil (extends out on LHS of engine). Fit a 12V alternator and buy a 12V starter $$$ or fit a voltage converter for starting with the 24V starter.
There was a company in Bundaberg (near brisbane) selling 2nd hand LR 4BD1 flywheels and 4BD1-LT95 bellhousings for installing a truck engine in a Land Rover - but I don't know if they still are.
Maybe the best thing to do would be to get a 4BD1 and the ISUZU 6-speed behind it, and get an adaptor made for the LT230 T-case.
The SIII Stage1 had a 4BD1 (85bhp) with an LT95 from 1982-1984
The 110 had a 4BD1 (99bhp) with an LT95 from 1984-1986 and an LT85 5-speed (which I have) from 1986-1989 (when they stopped making them).
The 6x6 (military and civillian (not many) had the 4BD1T and LT95. The military 4x4 Land Rovers had a 4BD1 and LT95 (they all had the 85bhp version the same as the trucks).
From my post in this thread http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=21248
The 4BD1T has alfin pistons and an oil spray bar to spray oil on the bottom of the pistons for cooling. Turboing a NA 4BD1 isn't hard because in a Land Rover they don't work nearly as hard as in a truck. The one I mentioned before has been fitted with an aftermarket turbo and has been going for years with no problems. I will turboing mine when I get back to Australia.
The only problem with the truck motor is the sump, flywheel and oil filter are different to the landrover version. And the starter and alternator will probably be 24V.
So - as well as getting a bellhousing made you need to:
Buy an upwards facing oil filter (downward facing interferes with the propshaft). Possibly modiy the sump (not sure) and the Land Rover sump holds an extra litre of oil (extends out on LHS of engine). Fit a 12V alternator and buy a 12V starter $$$ or fit a voltage converter for starting with the 24V starter.
There was a company in Bundaberg (near brisbane) selling 2nd hand LR 4BD1 flywheels and 4BD1-LT95 bellhousings for installing a truck engine in a Land Rover - but I don't know if they still are.
Maybe the best thing to do would be to get a 4BD1 and the ISUZU 6-speed behind it, and get an adaptor made for the LT230 T-case.
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
modman wrote:andersons landrover spares in qld advertise isuzu bellhousings
don't know if they still have them available
david
Yep, that was the place I was thinking of, thanks David. I almost bought one from them to do a conversion, then I bought a whole 110 with a 4BD1 instead!!!
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Ben
I have an '85 County with an Isuzu 4BE1 (not D) retrofitted in place of the V8. LT95 trans with 0.996 hi ratio gearset. I have two questions:
* I have a downward facing oil filter and have the clearance problem with the propshaft. Can you point me to somewhere in Bris that can supply an upward facing filter ?
* I'm interested in a turbo as I frequently tow a trailer. The 4BE1 has 74kW@3500rpm and 242Nm@2000rpm. What brand turbo are u running, what sort of boost and can you recommend anyone in Brisbane to do the job ?
Thanks, Rod
I have an '85 County with an Isuzu 4BE1 (not D) retrofitted in place of the V8. LT95 trans with 0.996 hi ratio gearset. I have two questions:
* I have a downward facing oil filter and have the clearance problem with the propshaft. Can you point me to somewhere in Bris that can supply an upward facing filter ?
* I'm interested in a turbo as I frequently tow a trailer. The 4BE1 has 74kW@3500rpm and 242Nm@2000rpm. What brand turbo are u running, what sort of boost and can you recommend anyone in Brisbane to do the job ?
Thanks, Rod
isuzu110 wrote:Ben
I have an '85 County with an Isuzu 4BE1 (not D) retrofitted in place of the V8. LT95 trans with 0.996 hi ratio gearset. I have two questions:
* I have a downward facing oil filter and have the clearance problem with the propshaft. Can you point me to somewhere in Bris that can supply an upward facing filter ?
* I'm interested in a turbo as I frequently tow a trailer. The 4BE1 has 74kW@3500rpm and 242Nm@2000rpm. What brand turbo are u running, what sort of boost and can you recommend anyone in Brisbane to do the job ?
Thanks, Rod
I thought the upward facing filter was fited to the 4BE1 - but maybe only some models. Just call around the truck wreckers and ask for an upward facing oil filter assembly that will fit a 4BE1.
I haven't turbo'd mine yet, but know a few people who have. A wrx turbo works well and 5psi of boost was factory for the 4BDIT, but you should be able to go to about 10 safely on a LR. If you need to pay someone to do the conversion it will be $$$. Maybe see if they made a 4BE1T and hunt around the weckers until you can buy a turbo and manifolds for that model (would be cheaper than paying for a conversion).
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
I wasn't aware of the 14bhp (99-85) difference between 4BD1's in LR's either side of the 1984 divide. What accounted for the difference and can it be rectified if you have an older one.
Also are they easily (read cheaply) overhauled if tired? Can any improvements be made at this stage (eg. pistons, injectors, pump etc.)?
Thanks in advance, Nigel
Also are they easily (read cheaply) overhauled if tired? Can any improvements be made at this stage (eg. pistons, injectors, pump etc.)?
Thanks in advance, Nigel
1988 Rangie 4.4l p76 with MD fr. & rr. diff locks on 33"x12.5x15 Cooper muddies, etc. etc.
"For the amazing views, smell of a freshly caught fish cooking on my campfire and the feel of a waterfall shower!"
"For the amazing views, smell of a freshly caught fish cooking on my campfire and the feel of a waterfall shower!"
The difference is due to the pump. The std pump for the truck engine has 85bhp, so all SIII Stage 1's had that output. The military 4x4's also had that output. There are some modifications to the pump required to increase the power to the county spec 99Bhp. Someone I know with a military 110 was quoted $500 by an injector place to do the mod, but you could probably have it done for free while the pump was rebuilt.
The full rebuild kit for the engine is quite cheap (appro $1500). There is about another 3000-4000 in labour costs if you need to pay someone to do the work. The late model motors and turbocharged motors were fitted with alfin-pistons but these should come in a rebuild kit. That is probably the only serious upgrade you cold do - apart from tweaking the pump (but fitting a turbo is the best mod to get more power).
You can increase the fuelling on the pump slightly yourself. It makes a reasonable difference to the performance.
The full rebuild kit for the engine is quite cheap (appro $1500). There is about another 3000-4000 in labour costs if you need to pay someone to do the work. The late model motors and turbocharged motors were fitted with alfin-pistons but these should come in a rebuild kit. That is probably the only serious upgrade you cold do - apart from tweaking the pump (but fitting a turbo is the best mod to get more power).
You can increase the fuelling on the pump slightly yourself. It makes a reasonable difference to the performance.
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
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