I'm no mechanic, so any advice will be extremely helpful. I want to change the oil on my NL, as it has been over 12 mths since my last service, but Paj has only travelled about 7000ks. Checked oil last week & it is starting to look a bit too dark/dirty for my liking. I'm planing to use Shell Helix Plus (semi synthetic). 2 Questions; anyone have comments, good/bad, about this oil & 2, more importantly, I understand you have to remove the bash plate to change oil/filter. I had a quick look underneath & thought I could drain oil without removing plate, but I cannot see filter. Is removing the plate a hard/time consuming job or pretty straightforward? Remember I'm no mechanic.
Any advice, greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Allan Mac
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Oil Change
Moderator: -Scott-
Allan, removing the 2 bashplates under the front diff is necesary to access the oil filter and diff fill and drain plugs.
There are 6 bolts for the bahplates 2x17mm and 4x13mm one of the problems is stipping the threads on the welded studs I had to helicoil all mine.
It also pays to use a little grease on the bolts when putting them back in and don't overtighten as this can strip the thread.
I can't comment on the Shell as I've never used it.
Frank.
There are 6 bolts for the bahplates 2x17mm and 4x13mm one of the problems is stipping the threads on the welded studs I had to helicoil all mine.
It also pays to use a little grease on the bolts when putting them back in and don't overtighten as this can strip the thread.
I can't comment on the Shell as I've never used it.
Frank.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Gday, Just a handy hint, if you have long lanky arms like I do, then you can reach the oil filter on the 3.5L without taking the bashplates off. Although you do need to twist you arm in 10 directions it can be done in much quicker time than having to take those pesky plates off.
Your right about not having to remove plate to drain the oil aswell. The oil filter is on the drivers side of the donk, tucked up nice and neatly. You cant really see it from the top, so if you wriggle your way about underneath you will find it easily.
As for oils, Ive used that in my 4L Falcon and it seemed ok, but the Paj runs on Mobil S 10w-40. After 2 changes all lifter noise disappeared and it comes out nice and clean every 5,000kms. Highly recommend it...
Your right about not having to remove plate to drain the oil aswell. The oil filter is on the drivers side of the donk, tucked up nice and neatly. You cant really see it from the top, so if you wriggle your way about underneath you will find it easily.
As for oils, Ive used that in my 4L Falcon and it seemed ok, but the Paj runs on Mobil S 10w-40. After 2 changes all lifter noise disappeared and it comes out nice and clean every 5,000kms. Highly recommend it...
Thanks guys for the advice. Unfortunately do not have long langy arms, so it looks like the plates come off. Will need to be careful going by what Frank & Valhalla said & a good tip about the grease. One advantage will be to give inside of plates a good clean after muddy trip to Toolangi/Cathedral Ranges 6 wks ago.
I know Mobil 1 is the 'ducks guts', (used it in my HDT Dunnydore), but not too sure whether there is any advantage in a vehicle that has done 100000kys.
Cheers
Allan Mac
I know Mobil 1 is the 'ducks guts', (used it in my HDT Dunnydore), but not too sure whether there is any advantage in a vehicle that has done 100000kys.
Cheers
Allan Mac
Do you guys have a rust penetrant there called PB Blaster? It works magic. I always spray down "questionable" bolts/nuts before putting the wrench to them. I also use "never-seize" when putting back together. Grease is good too...
FSMs at http://www.mitsubishilinks.com
1) 00 3.5 SOHC, AT, stock for now
2) 95 LS,5-spd,3.0 24V,SR rear locker
3) 87 SWB 2.6L Turbo, I/C, 2.85s, LSD/LSD
4) 03 20th Anniv, hers, 22k miles!
1) 00 3.5 SOHC, AT, stock for now
2) 95 LS,5-spd,3.0 24V,SR rear locker
3) 87 SWB 2.6L Turbo, I/C, 2.85s, LSD/LSD
4) 03 20th Anniv, hers, 22k miles!
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