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ARB Spares.
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
ARB Spares.
Does anyone know if ARB sell sell the airlocker compressor switch as one unit or you can buy just the plastic cover ?
Mine decided to fall off today as the internal plastic tabs had disintegrated.
You really need that cover to turn the compressor off/on.
ARB make a great product but some of the components are dodgy to say the least.
Mine decided to fall off today as the internal plastic tabs had disintegrated.
You really need that cover to turn the compressor off/on.
ARB make a great product but some of the components are dodgy to say the least.
Whats wrong with just a replcement switch, so many choices and probably cheaper than ARB. ONE with a light would be good.
MY JEEP BUILD
v840 wrote: [Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
I cant realy answer that as when i work on them they usually still havent been sold yet but i guess they would be no better.
All 3 of mine broke a long time ago but they sit flat in my console so the pin in the centre still holds them in.
I wont be running any of the electrical ARB switches or solinoids when i re-assemble my rig. The electrical side of the ARB Airlocker system realy needs someone to re-design it as it is total crap everywhere.
All 3 of mine broke a long time ago but they sit flat in my console so the pin in the centre still holds them in.
I wont be running any of the electrical ARB switches or solinoids when i re-assemble my rig. The electrical side of the ARB Airlocker system realy needs someone to re-design it as it is total crap everywhere.
Wendle wrote:has anyone here tried running straight air switches yet and pissing off the whole electrical side of the setup?
That's what the Volvo 6x6 dump trucks use and their loaders. They have a button on the floor and also a toggle air switch on the dash. 8)
Live fast, die young and have a bloody good looking corpse.
Wendle wrote:has anyone here tried running straight air switches yet and pissing off the whole electrical side of the setup?
i will be running a 18 speed eaton shifter in my new rig, this has two air switches on the shifter, and can run a front and rear airlocker, no electrics needed 8)
hands and mums dont count!!!
RUFF wrote:I cant realy answer that as when i work on them they usually still havent been sold yet but i guess they would be no better.
All 3 of mine broke a long time ago but they sit flat in my console so the pin in the centre still holds them in.
I wont be running any of the electrical ARB switches or solinoids when i re-assemble my rig. The electrical side of the ARB Airlocker system realy needs someone to re-design it as it is total crap everywhere.
I couldnt agree more on the wiring thing!
and when i saw the thread is was going to mention tonys airlocker switches, since ive known him the tops have been falling off, but thats okay, as every time ive seen him all the green lights are on, and his foot is on the hammer.
hands and mums dont count!!!
bj on roids wrote:i will be running a 18 speed eaton shifter in my new rig, this has two air switches on the shifter, and can run a front and rear airlocker, no electrics needed 8)
Cool... I was thinking that it would make the initial cost of setting up air lockers cheaper too, If you were to run an engine driven compressor and use nothing from ARB other than the hemispheres. Machinery air switches are cheap and strong and reliable. They have big levers on them which wouldn't be bad either..
Wendle wrote:bj on roids wrote:i will be running a 18 speed eaton shifter in my new rig, this has two air switches on the shifter, and can run a front and rear airlocker, no electrics needed 8)
Cool... I was thinking that it would make the initial cost of setting up air lockers cheaper too, If you were to run an engine driven compressor and use nothing from ARB other than the hemispheres. Machinery air switches are cheap and strong and reliable. They have big levers on them which wouldn't be bad either..
This is what I am doing to my lux very soon (within the next 3 months anyway )
We use air switches at work for activating pto's and air tailgates on tippers and alot of the hydraulic companies sell them. You can get them in banks of 1,2,3 or 4 i think and they come with a pressure switch activated light so you know when they are on or not. They also come in a flush mount housing so you just cut a hole in tha dash and screw them in. I will find one tommrow and post a pic. I can proabably get a rough price on them as well so you know what to aim for.
"If it ain't broken, smash it harder, then make it stronger!"
redrocket wrote:We use air switches at work for activating pto's and air tailgates on tippers and alot of the hydraulic companies sell them. You can get them in banks of 1,2,3 or 4 i think and they come with a pressure switch activated light so you know when they are on or not. They also come in a flush mount housing so you just cut a hole in tha dash and screw them in. I will find one tommrow and post a pic. I can proabably get a rough price on them as well so you know what to aim for.
Yeah a price and a pic would be great these are what i plan on using.
ok i found some of those switches i talked about and you can look at some photos here http://pics.montypics.com/offroad_god/2 ... p_1330.jpg and also here http://pics.montypics.com/offroad_god/2 ... p_1328.jpg
They are used in trucks and are rated to hold over 100psi and will not break to easily like the arbs. They have a little pressure switch on them which can be hooked up to any sort of indicator light you want or you can use the one supplied. They are plumbed up with a supply line and a line to the locker and when the switch is turned off it dumps the pressure in the line to the locker thru a port in the switch so you still get that lilte pwssshhhh sound. The 2 bank switch is about $50 and the single is about $40.
They are used in trucks and are rated to hold over 100psi and will not break to easily like the arbs. They have a little pressure switch on them which can be hooked up to any sort of indicator light you want or you can use the one supplied. They are plumbed up with a supply line and a line to the locker and when the switch is turned off it dumps the pressure in the line to the locker thru a port in the switch so you still get that lilte pwssshhhh sound. The 2 bank switch is about $50 and the single is about $40.
"If it ain't broken, smash it harder, then make it stronger!"
MADSHORT wrote:Look the other option is to use a $2.00 toogle switch works just the same.
And you can get a shiny chrome one to if you want
And if you cant work out if its on or not add a $2.00 red,blue,green or what ever colour light you want
Madshort
Yeah then you still have the probs with the solinoids fouling up and the compressor failing and the conector plug to the compressor melting and the fuse holder melting and the pressure switch failing and the tank leaking because they are poorly cast where the O-ring is and the main shaft snapping on the compressor And And And And............................
Should i go on?
Every part of an ARB airlocker System exept the hemisphere is total crap.Its all cheap junk that is not realy up to the task.
If you set up an engine driven compressor and Air valves you are more than half way to solving the problems they have.
If you set up an engine driven compressor and Air valves you are more than half way to solving the problems they have.
Setting it up like this makes the whole system fool proof and so so easy to find a problem if you ever get one. What other parts were you looking for ruff? i might be able to get them.
"If it ain't broken, smash it harder, then make it stronger!"
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