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Am looking at running a fuseblock/distribution block or similar in the cargo area of the cruiser for 12v outlets. Was wondering what if any recommendations people can make. Want it to run blade fuses rather than 3AG ones. Something like this from Narva:
6-Way Standard Blade Fuse Box with Transparent Cover, Gasket and 12 Terminals Suitable for lateral connection with female 6.3mm blade terminal Amperage rating 30A
Is there a better way to handle power distribution than a fuseblock - if so please discuss
What kind of Amps would it need to take - I have seen 6A versions in marine suppliers - would that be suitable for running normal 12v appliances? Looking at running Trailblazer 60 ltr fridge, 12v outlets for camera battery charges, external lighting, handheld fluro's etc The main drain would be the fridge.
Your fridge could draw more than 6Amps. The Narva one looks good at 30Amps and sounds like it would suit you- better to buy something that's an overkill rather than have it cause you problems later on.
I've been meaning to install something similar myself on my second battery and get rid of the individual inline fuses.
only problem I found with these was the six individual cables that needed to be run to the fuse block....
my solution was to run a thick 0 gauge cable from battery close to fuse block... got a sealed box from jaycar and ran this cable with lug on the end into box...in the box i used a big mofo bolt through the lug and 6 small cables attached... these 6 cables then ran out box nice and neat to fuse block..
a constant duty solenoid can be fitted with switch to activate or isolate this line when wanted...
sorry no pics except for shitty paint drawing attached
hey norbert, used the same fuse block for a distribution centre in engine bay of my cruiser. works well. if yours going into cargo bay make sure you mount it somewhere protected, like a dedicated spot with easily (to change fuses if necessary) removed lid.
I'm using the same fuse boxes, the 6 inputs makes it a bit hard tho, you could do what landy_man said, or check out most car audio shops theyve got power distribution blocks, some with built in fuse holder some without, look bling and handle heaps of power.
There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots
landy_man wrote:only problem I found with these was the six individual cables that needed to be run to the fuse block....
my solution was to run a thick 0 gauge cable from battery close to fuse block... got a sealed box from jaycar and ran this cable with lug on the end into box...in the box i used a big mofo bolt through the lug and 6 small cables attached... these 6 cables then ran out box nice and neat to fuse block.. a constant duty solenoid can be fitted with switch to activate or isolate this line when wanted...
sorry no pics except for shitty paint drawing attached
Landy man what's the solenoid for in the diagram? It would obviously isolate power to the fuse box, but it would also drain the battery when energised to supply power.
not 100% sure on current draw from solenoid but it cant be that much... with my personal setup i do not run the solenoid but as i said... "you could"... but dont have to...could also just use high current isolator switch if wanted
OK. My first thought was that it has to be energised to supply power, and it would be another drain on the battery that would just flatten it quicker. If you needed isolation for some reason the switch would be a better idea.
ive got one of these in my 40 in the center for all my extras lights cb stereo ect
i bent the pins down on 1 side so they join together then solder them all together works a treat i actually did 3 1 way and 5 the other and wired 1 lot up througha relay with the ignition works a treat
