For those that have learnt from the himount prep masters SG Leslie & sons story in 4wdm mag..
What did you do for the motor's armature bearing found in the new alloy cover ?
I couldn't get a bearing to fit so at the moment a 17x40 roller bearing is going in (same as most alternators) and the shaft is getting trimmed down from 18.5 to 17.
Also what $$ did you get stung for alloy machining grade bar for the cover ?
At the mo it'd be easier find rocking horse $hit in Canberra than alloy rod >110mm...
TIA
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Hot rodded 8274 Himount parts
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Hot rodded 8274 Himount parts
97 TJ [i]Goatsack[/i]
Re: Hot rodded 8274 Himount parts
EDIT: I can't read!
What was the date on the mag?
What was the date on the mag?
Land Rover Discovery - GQ conversion underway
tks for the info Cliffy
Eventually found mach grade aluminium rod 130mm diam x 135mm long (5kg) from www.apollometals.com.au in sydney.
$80.00 including only $5 overnight freight to ACT !
Top service !
Should get two sets of motor and drum caps out of it.
Am using a standard alternator bearing (Bout $7 replacement and common as muck) for the motor lid.
The engineer also has some UHMW plastic kicking around so am going to get some hawse fairleads turned up to keep the plastic cable happy. They look like this :
Eventually found mach grade aluminium rod 130mm diam x 135mm long (5kg) from www.apollometals.com.au in sydney.
$80.00 including only $5 overnight freight to ACT !
Top service !
Should get two sets of motor and drum caps out of it.
Am using a standard alternator bearing (Bout $7 replacement and common as muck) for the motor lid.
The engineer also has some UHMW plastic kicking around so am going to get some hawse fairleads turned up to keep the plastic cable happy. They look like this :
97 TJ [i]Goatsack[/i]
No worries gordo, have just had a similar thing fabbed. Have done the works... bronze drum bushings, motor heat sink, alloy bearing cap, 2.5 inches in the drum and alloy fairlead. Have a read of this...
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=260638
There is some interesting discussion on hawse fairlead material,
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=260638
There is some interesting discussion on hawse fairlead material,
1990 FJ70, 1HZ turbo/inter, masterpiece in progress.
Hybrid, Hotroding winches especially high mounts does a few things..... Mostly increasing the reliability, by that, getting rid of heat, which kills winch motors, fitting oil fill and drain plugs, lengthing the drum increases the rope length, as well as increasing the pulling power, by that I mean the length of the wraps of cable on the drum. Other things like replacing the crappy plastic bushes which support the drum with bronze bushings.
The list go's on and on, have a look at some of the comp vehicles and the winchs on them, you can even join two high mounts together, giving yo a capacity of 1600 lb with the line speed of a standard 8000 high mount. (have a look in the latest 4x4mthly in the comp section)
All these modifications give you a winch that will pull all day, and not leave you stuck in the myre.
The list go's on and on, have a look at some of the comp vehicles and the winchs on them, you can even join two high mounts together, giving yo a capacity of 1600 lb with the line speed of a standard 8000 high mount. (have a look in the latest 4x4mthly in the comp section)
All these modifications give you a winch that will pull all day, and not leave you stuck in the myre.
1990 FJ70, 1HZ turbo/inter, masterpiece in progress.
Nice bling Cliffy ! 
That's a $%$#ing serious heatsink dude :O
I'm using an old alloy oil filter coller from jcwhitney in the US which attaches with a big hose clamp.
Got my motor cap and o-ringed drum caps spun up - very sexy ! Will post pics 2moro.
The engineer ended up using two alternator bearings in the motor cap and turning the armature shaft down 1mm
That's a $%$#ing serious heatsink dude :O
I'm using an old alloy oil filter coller from jcwhitney in the US which attaches with a big hose clamp.
Got my motor cap and o-ringed drum caps spun up - very sexy ! Will post pics 2moro.
The engineer ended up using two alternator bearings in the motor cap and turning the armature shaft down 1mm
97 TJ [i]Goatsack[/i]
These are all really cool ideas which do tend to chew up big dollars in sometimes the wrong areas.
Maybe try thinkin outside the square.
How about running the vehicle charging system at 24v, resist and diode back to 16-18VDC therefore when the winch is under full load it is still at 14-16v ,not 10-12v like std ( the motor windings will take it - and luv it). by doing this the speed is increased by up to 30% the current required for the same load is reduced dramatically, and it is the current draw that produces heat so it to is reduced.
That was easy wasn't it.
I have a lot to do with both ac and dc VSD and servo drives and the Variation on voltages greatly changes performace of the motors.
Just a few ideas to throw around
Maybe try thinkin outside the square.
How about running the vehicle charging system at 24v, resist and diode back to 16-18VDC therefore when the winch is under full load it is still at 14-16v ,not 10-12v like std ( the motor windings will take it - and luv it). by doing this the speed is increased by up to 30% the current required for the same load is reduced dramatically, and it is the current draw that produces heat so it to is reduced.
That was easy wasn't it.
I have a lot to do with both ac and dc VSD and servo drives and the Variation on voltages greatly changes performace of the motors.
Just a few ideas to throw around
Gordo, That heat sink is the go, nice and simple, clearence some holes for the motor terminals and job's right. I tried to source some blank heatsink, similar to what you have but with no sucess. If some one had acess to heat sink they could make a good income.
I am waiting to get the rest of my Bling back as the fitter that I use in on hols, Will start assembely, and post some pics.
1MadEngineer, I have a basic knowledge of electrics, so be patient with me.......
The winch that I have is a 24V winch and will chew less amps comparted to the 12V winch ( http://www.warn.com/truck/winches/src/M8274-50.shtml - have a look at the table and compare the amp/line pull) This why most of comp guys use 24v winches. the other thing is that they produce less heat.
If you were to diode back the voltage you would have to have some serious diodes to handle the amps. I toyed with this to get 24V out of a 12V system for a while. Came to dead end.
However if you follow the link - http://www.surepower.com/pdf/ebr_dcdc.pdf - you will see 41204 which converts 12v dc into 24v dc with a 40 amp capacity. Use the converter to charge some batteries, to run the winch. You would be able to winch all day. This was covered in Petersens last year some time.
I am waiting to get the rest of my Bling back as the fitter that I use in on hols, Will start assembely, and post some pics.
1MadEngineer, I have a basic knowledge of electrics, so be patient with me.......
The winch that I have is a 24V winch and will chew less amps comparted to the 12V winch ( http://www.warn.com/truck/winches/src/M8274-50.shtml - have a look at the table and compare the amp/line pull) This why most of comp guys use 24v winches. the other thing is that they produce less heat.
If you were to diode back the voltage you would have to have some serious diodes to handle the amps. I toyed with this to get 24V out of a 12V system for a while. Came to dead end.
However if you follow the link - http://www.surepower.com/pdf/ebr_dcdc.pdf - you will see 41204 which converts 12v dc into 24v dc with a 40 amp capacity. Use the converter to charge some batteries, to run the winch. You would be able to winch all day. This was covered in Petersens last year some time.
1990 FJ70, 1HZ turbo/inter, masterpiece in progress.
It wasn't really $$ either.. bout $13US from here : http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Prod ... ogId-10101
Good for cooling oil too
Have u looked into rewinding costs ??
eg having 2.5hp motor rewound to as many hp as possible vs buying 6hp gen-u-ine or t-max.
Here's the new blinger caps. Have 1 set for sale and 1 to keep. Will advertise em properly later...
Good for cooling oil too
Have u looked into rewinding costs ??
eg having 2.5hp motor rewound to as many hp as possible vs buying 6hp gen-u-ine or t-max.
Here's the new blinger caps. Have 1 set for sale and 1 to keep. Will advertise em properly later...
97 TJ [i]Goatsack[/i]
Sorry guys you might have mis-understood me.(i just ramble on)
the vehicle including the whinch is still all 12v effectively, butthe charging system is 24v. what this means is you can use a large cheap 120 amp 24v alternator to juice up to 12v batteries ,(eg 2 cat12v 900CCA @ $130 each) that would give you 1800cca and nearly 900amp/hr of battery life.
resist and diode the output feed of the batteries into the system back down to 16-18v. The extra voltage will give you a better ignition spark, better spot lights etc..etc..
as said before the reason people use 24v whinchs is they use less current, that is true, so this setup is basicly half way, but the added advantage of increased speed due to the input voltage of the mptor being now higher than the rating (18v pushing a 12v motor , not 22-24v on a 24v motor).
Hope that helps a little bit.
the vehicle including the whinch is still all 12v effectively, butthe charging system is 24v. what this means is you can use a large cheap 120 amp 24v alternator to juice up to 12v batteries ,(eg 2 cat12v 900CCA @ $130 each) that would give you 1800cca and nearly 900amp/hr of battery life.
resist and diode the output feed of the batteries into the system back down to 16-18v. The extra voltage will give you a better ignition spark, better spot lights etc..etc..
as said before the reason people use 24v whinchs is they use less current, that is true, so this setup is basicly half way, but the added advantage of increased speed due to the input voltage of the mptor being now higher than the rating (18v pushing a 12v motor , not 22-24v on a 24v motor).
Hope that helps a little bit.
advantage of increased speed due to the input voltage of the mptor being now higher than the rating (18v pushing a 12v motor , not 22-24v on a 24v motor).
1MadEngineer, I understand loud and clear, however what sort of life expentancy will a 12v motor have running at 18v? I know you said in a earlier post that the windings 'would love it' please explain.
why bother. just get a 24v motor and a 24 volt alternator.
If you watch last year OBC (I think) You notice a number of guys pull out cos either there 12V or 24v alt packs it in
If you use a 12v to 24v converter and have twin 12v alt's then you still have your 24v winch and can still run the rest of the 4b.... And yes I know some one is going to say why not get a car with a 24v system..... Most of us have a 4b's on 12v's
The thing I would love to know is what is the difference in the windings/magnets ect between a 24v winch motor and a 12v winch motor? and what determines the hp rating, ie 2.5 hp or 4.5 hp (Snake want $900+ for a 4.5 hp 24v warn)
1990 FJ70, 1HZ turbo/inter, masterpiece in progress.
HP/KW is a calculation of the work done/time, torque is a calculation of amp and volts. When investigating the higher HP motors they get the higher HP by spinning faster but the loaded speed remains the same due to the available volts and amps. With the 24v system the torque is the same but the motor draw 1/2 the amps. Amps is what generates the heat so 1/2 the amps is 1/2 the heat so you can winch twice as long. I had probs with the 12v system that when winching hard the voltage drop was shuting down the engine (Motec ECU) and the GPS. Just got my 24v system up and running and have kept it completly independant to the vehicle electrical system. I measured the voltage with the motor not running and ive got 27 volts plus goes upto 30volts when running. The winch sounds better than ever and looking forward to giving it a work out this weekend at the Navnites.
Wally
Wally
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