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GQ Vibration

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

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GQ Vibration

Post by EricB »

Hi

I have a just raised my GQ SWB 2" above standard height.

Love they way it drives now but have a vibration between 40-45km/hr

I did a search on here and decided to try the OME packer kit for the gear box cross member from ARB.

I think it has improved it a little bit.

My question is, should I add another kit and take from 10mm to 15 or 20mm?

Or is there a better option for me to take?

I hope I'm on the right track.

Any help would be great!

Cheers
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Post by marin »

my last shorty had a 2 inch lift when i bought it and had 2 gear box packers and drove perfectly... could also try new uni's and tailshaft balance after that
Rum injected

TD42T shorty... got some bolt on and some custom stuff.

Read about it [url=http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18848]here![/url]
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Post by Dirty Dave »

The Vibs could just co-incide wit the wheel balance that needs to be done that you forgot about...happened to me at a five inch lift but the car is more female when you go that high in a SWB. :twisted:
If you are that worried you could go adjustable top arms to correct diff angles, but seriously who drives at 40-45km/h??? :armsup:
Xtreme Bolt on Bandit....and your mum loves it!!!
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Post by EricB »

Cool, I have just popped some MTRs on this morning and I have a caster kit installed. So the balance should be cool.

When you say 2 gearbox packers, do you mean 2 plates or you bought 2 kits = 4 plates a side?

For $30 I might try a second kit.

Now I have to find somewhere to test her out :lol:

Do you guys ever go on any day trips that are ok for a novice to tag along also?

Cheers
Eric
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Post by robbie »

Eric: there are always trips getting organised which cater for new drivers to the most experienced drivers.. keep a watch on the trips & tracks section.
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Post by Red Rover »

Mine has been a mongrel since day dot with vibration on a 3-4 inch lift. The adjustable top arms made a reasonable difference, buy depeneds on weight is in it etc. I have the packers, but they made it worse (with STD top arms). Haven't tried them with the adj arms yet though. Turned the shaft around as well & that has virtually go rid of it, combined with the adj top arms
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rOd
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Post by rOd »

Red Rover wrote:Turned the shaft around as well & that has virtually go rid of it, combined with the adj top arms


Im curious about this trick. Was it as simple as just turning the tailshaft from tranny end to diff end?

Rod
Dont expect mere proof to sway my opinion.
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diff

Post by DR Frankenstine »

BUY AN MQ :D :finger: :D :finger:
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Re: diff

Post by Dirty Dave »

DR Frankenstine wrote:BUY AN MQ :D :finger: :D :finger:


NOT EVERYONE IS EASILY PLEASED.....UNLIKE MQ OWNERS!!! :twisted:
Xtreme Bolt on Bandit....and your mum loves it!!!
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Post by viperguy »

give cheezy a call... i have a 91 mav swb with 5 inch springs.. if u use standard shaft as aposed to double carden u need longer lower trailing arms...lowers pinion to match angle from transfer output..
spoke to cheezy and he sent me 16mm longer bomb proof arms and heypresto...no more virations... hes even in melbourne so give him a buzz or go see him.. hes the guru. the adjustable upper arms will work with the double carden shaft as u have to have the pinion and shaft working in a straight line with the upper unis doing the bending...
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Post by Red Rover »

rOd wrote:
Red Rover wrote:Turned the shaft around as well & that has virtually go rid of it, combined with the adj top arms


Im curious about this trick. Was it as simple as just turning the tailshaft from tranny end to diff end?

Rod


Yes it is as easy as that, why it made a difference defies all logic, but is has. It also gives more clearance on the crossmember.

As for MQ's, I had two of them & bloody front end wobbles, no way never again! Yes I did get rid of them but what a pain in the arse
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Post by sideways »

i have a 4 inch lift in mine and all i did was lower the cross member by 15 mill and packed the engin up 10 no vibrations cost about $10
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Post by bazzle »

The turning the tailshaft worked due to picking up a different wear point in the uni's. As said earlier sometimes they need to be changed.
On LWB the shaft should always be turned so slip joint is a top when fitting longer rear shocks so shaft doesnt hit extra crossmember on droop.

bazzle :)
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Post by rOd »

Red Rover wrote:
rOd wrote:
Red Rover wrote:Turned the shaft around as well & that has virtually go rid of it, combined with the adj top arms


Im curious about this trick. Was it as simple as just turning the tailshaft from tranny end to diff end?

Rod


Yes it is as easy as that, why it made a difference defies all logic, but is has. It also gives more clearance on the crossmember.

As for MQ's, I had two of them & bloody front end wobbles, no way never again! Yes I did get rid of them but what a pain in the arse



Strangely enough, I dont get any vibrations at all from the front end. Apart from my steering wheel being off centre since the lift, which indicates the need for a wheel alignment.

Rod
Dont expect mere proof to sway my opinion.
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Post by EricB »

Tonight I decided to call into Bunnings

I got 24 large washers to suit the bolts from the cross member adjuster kit.

undid all the bolts and put 3 washers around each bolt between the 2 plates from the kit, about 7mm.

Now the vibration is 99% gone :)

It only cost another $2.88 instead of another kit $32

Eric

PS. will lowering the cross member by 17mm add stress to the engine mounts or should they be fine left untouched?
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Post by rOd »

EricB wrote:undid all the bolts and put 3 washers around each bolt between the 2 plates from the kit, about 7mm.

Now the vibration is 99% gone :)


Eric

PS. will lowering the cross member by 17mm add stress to the engine mounts or should they be fine left untouched?


This is exactly what I did except my washers are about 70mm wide which I found at work, hence cost nothing. :cool:

I agree, the vibrations around 40-60kms are nearly gone.

Ive also thought about undoing the bolts for the engine a bit to release the twist on the rubber then redoing it. Dont know if that is the case yet.

Rod
Dont expect mere proof to sway my opinion.
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Post by bazzle »

There is extra strain on engine mounts.
Early 2 bolts may shear. Later 4 bolts will bang against the wrap plates from time to time.

Just keep a spare 2 bolt mount for left side (same as r/h)
(Or get a Cheezy pinned one?)

Bazzle
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Post by bazzle »

Strangely enough, I dont get any vibrations at all from the front end. Apart from my steering wheel being off centre since the lift, which indicates the need for a wheel alignment.

Rod




Rear shaft doesnt affect front.

Alignment wont fix steering wheel offset. You will need an adj drag link (from box to l/h wheel)

Bazzle
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Post by Red Rover »

rOd wrote:
Red Rover wrote:
rOd wrote:
Red Rover wrote:Turned the shaft around as well & that has virtually go rid of it, combined with the adj top arms


Im curious about this trick. Was it as simple as just turning the tailshaft from tranny end to diff end?

Rod


Yes it is as easy as that, why it made a difference defies all logic, but is has. It also gives more clearance on the crossmember.

As for MQ's, I had two of them & bloody front end wobbles, no way never again! Yes I did get rid of them but what a pain in the arse


No. i was talking about the rear, not the front


Strangely enough, I dont get any vibrations at all from the front end. Apart from my steering wheel being off centre since the lift, which indicates the need for a wheel alignment.

Rod
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Post by GQTrav »

One of my mates has a swb mav with a 4 inch lift, a couple of weeks after the lift, he needed new engine mounts, this was caused by the cross member being lowered too much and putting too much stress on the engine mounts.
Another mate has a swb GQ with a 4-5 inch lift and gets shocking vibration between 70 and 80, this is with 33 inch muds. Yesterday we put my road tyres on his truck (31's, no offset) and the vibration disappeared completely. Glad we found out it was the wheels before we started replacing bushes and the like.
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Post by EricB »

How much did he lower the cross member by?

Maybe it is worth losening and retightening the engine mounts.
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Post by GQTrav »

Can't remember how much he lowered it by, but the guy with the SWB GQ is just using some ply wood for the spacer, i thinks it's around 10mm and we've had no trouble with that, don't know how long it's been there for, it was like that when he got the car.
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Post by EricB »

Cool, now I just need some places to test it.

This is all new to me. I did Lady Talbot Drive on Sunday but didn't take any side tracks as I dont have a UHF or recovery gear. They are next on the list. :lol:
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Post by bazzle »

Join the Nissan Patrol club in melb.

Bazzle
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Post by EricB »

bazzle wrote:Join the Nissan Patrol club in melb.

Bazzle


Do they have a web site?
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