Hey guys,
just wondering what dampers or shock absorbers u guys would recommend to run on my dad's 4.6HSE? Coz currently i find the car feels like a boat around corners.
I just want something value for money and with reasonably positive damping caracteristics.
Just wondering what's available aftermarket or the only thing available are standard RR dampers.
Any advise would be appreciated.
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Dampers to recommend for 4.6HSE
Moderator: Micka
really depends on what he uses the vehicle for....
i assume being a P38a that it is mainly a road car...
if so, you will find that the standard factory items are actually good value for money (suprisingly) and they actually handle quite well for a factory shock...
Aftermarket... as mentioned Koni's or Bilsteins... both are rebuildable, so in essence the last pair he would ever have to buy
i assume being a P38a that it is mainly a road car...
if so, you will find that the standard factory items are actually good value for money (suprisingly) and they actually handle quite well for a factory shock...
Aftermarket... as mentioned Koni's or Bilsteins... both are rebuildable, so in essence the last pair he would ever have to buy
So i take it there's only Bilstien and Koni for the 4.6 in the market. Do u think Old Man Emu or tough dog makes absorbers for this car specifically.
And yes basically it's a road car with the odd off road trips(just laterite roads).
I wouldnt have the heart to take it off roading though i know it is immensely capable for a stock car.
And yes basically it's a road car with the odd off road trips(just laterite roads).
I wouldnt have the heart to take it off roading though i know it is immensely capable for a stock car.
.....Koni's or Bilsteins... both are rebuildable, so in essence the last pair he would ever have to buy
unfortunately the gas Koni's aren't, only the twin tube version can be re-built/re-valved, although they are still externally adjustable in rebound. (a button on the end cap is depressed and then the shaft is rotated)
They use a crimp in the top of the body to hold the bloody circlip in, wheras the Bilstein body is grooved, and the twin tube Koni is threaded.
Rick.
300Tdi Defender 130 CC
Be very careful buying shock absorbers other than the original equipment because your RR has air suspension.
Our experience has been when owners have had Bilsteins or Pedders fitted to RRs with air suspension the vehicles have been like a brick to drive. you have been able to feel even the slightest bump in the road, it makes them too uncomfortable to drive on sealed roads let alone offroad.
Alan Howard
Our experience has been when owners have had Bilsteins or Pedders fitted to RRs with air suspension the vehicles have been like a brick to drive. you have been able to feel even the slightest bump in the road, it makes them too uncomfortable to drive on sealed roads let alone offroad.
Alan Howard
British4wd wrote:Be very careful buying shock absorbers other than the original equipment because your RR has air suspension.
Our experience has been when owners have had Bilsteins or Pedders fitted to RRs with air suspension the vehicles have been like a brick to drive. you have been able to feel even the slightest bump in the road, it makes them too uncomfortable to drive on sealed roads let alone offroad.
Alan Howard
Nah, I trust Bilsteins. I have had good luck with their 7100's on my Defender, and although is is not air sprung, the shocks have the characteristics I've been told is required for air springs - compress easily and heavy damping going out. Firm but not harsh.
The direct replacements for P38 are B46-2215 rear and B46-2214 front. I haven't found any specs on length and travel, but I will try to get similar shocks but slightly more travel, to go with taller air springs and a modest lift.
Rangerover 4.6 HSE '96
Still stockish, but with plans
Defender 110 CSW Td5 '01
Full exo cage, all MDE axles, on 9.00x16 Michelins
Still stockish, but with plans
Defender 110 CSW Td5 '01
Full exo cage, all MDE axles, on 9.00x16 Michelins
Standard rangie running gear, running 35's:
Have had a single Old Man Emu for the past seven years. Leaking oil and is all knackered now, but is still doing the job reasonably ok.
Have ordered a new Rancho Rockcrawler 41mm bore damper only s'arvo. I'll yabber about it whenever I get it fitted next week.
/silly dave.
Have had a single Old Man Emu for the past seven years. Leaking oil and is all knackered now, but is still doing the job reasonably ok.
Have ordered a new Rancho Rockcrawler 41mm bore damper only s'arvo. I'll yabber about it whenever I get it fitted next week.
/silly dave.
Diggin up an old post...
I've just been advised that my 88 RR handling problems on corrugated roads is mainly due to the stiffness in my Bilsteins, and that my best option will be to sell them and go for Koni adjustables, OME or a few others of the cheaper brands.
I got the shocks from LRA with a set of springs, so would have assumed that they would work well on the car, but the car rides so stiff due to the shocks.
Any comments?
Luke
I've just been advised that my 88 RR handling problems on corrugated roads is mainly due to the stiffness in my Bilsteins, and that my best option will be to sell them and go for Koni adjustables, OME or a few others of the cheaper brands.
I got the shocks from LRA with a set of springs, so would have assumed that they would work well on the car, but the car rides so stiff due to the shocks.
Any comments?
Luke
'88 Rangie, 3.9i, Bilstein Shocks and RS Springs, ARB Lockers F&R, 24spline rear axles, Flares, [url=http://users.on.net/~vethaak/Projects.htm]Custom centre console and cargo shelves[/url]
Dont believe it. Road shocks or nowhere even remotely near the stiffness required to cause that type of problem. I dont know what the problems are, but you will find that the stiffer they go within reason the better they control the axles on the corrugations. I've tried all of this indeveloping suspension and am currently running 50% stiffer than Bilsteins own spec for the Disco, and about to revalve harder again for even more control in the rear. You may find that if its not handling properly that the shocks & springs in the front and rear are not working to make it handle in a balanced way, or there has been a failure in one or some of them.LukeV wrote:Diggin up an old post...
I've just been advised that my 88 RR handling problems on corrugated roads is mainly due to the stiffness in my Bilsteins, and that my best option will be to sell them and go for Koni adjustables, OME or a few others of the cheaper brands.
I got the shocks from LRA with a set of springs, so would have assumed that they would work well on the car, but the car rides so stiff due to the shocks.
Any comments?
Luke
Cheers
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
Am I wrong or has the only respondent with an air suspension said he has problems, and a guy who deals in them all the time says the same.
I seem to recall that Graeme Cooper reckons that gas shocks are not suitable for air suspension, and he is a great exponent of anything Bilstein.
Why not give Anthony a call and ask his recommendation.
By the way it is not the job of the shock to reduce body roll.
The standard shocks if like Classic are now Boge brand, which are OE on most European cars. I have them on my Classic and they are great. It is not like $2 Japanese rubbish.
The problem as I understand it with Bilis is not so much the rate but initial harshness. Air suspension IMHO is harsher on sharp bumps than springs anyway. Apparently Gas shocks exacerbate this.
Regards Philip A
I seem to recall that Graeme Cooper reckons that gas shocks are not suitable for air suspension, and he is a great exponent of anything Bilstein.
Why not give Anthony a call and ask his recommendation.
By the way it is not the job of the shock to reduce body roll.
The standard shocks if like Classic are now Boge brand, which are OE on most European cars. I have them on my Classic and they are great. It is not like $2 Japanese rubbish.
The problem as I understand it with Bilis is not so much the rate but initial harshness. Air suspension IMHO is harsher on sharp bumps than springs anyway. Apparently Gas shocks exacerbate this.
Regards Philip A
Well, I am having a few things done to it and will see how it goes once the other problems are fixed, but it does seem that they are very harsh over smaller bumps and corrugations compared to my cousins RR of the same year that has cheap arse Pedders in it.
All I know is that it was almost unbearable to drive on a slightly corruguted road, the console was rattling so hard the intrument cluster panel broke off :( Guess you could put that down to the fantastic plastic used in the RR
Luke
edit - seems my engine and auto mounts are completely collapsed
Guess that could be causing some of the problems...
All I know is that it was almost unbearable to drive on a slightly corruguted road, the console was rattling so hard the intrument cluster panel broke off :( Guess you could put that down to the fantastic plastic used in the RR
Luke
edit - seems my engine and auto mounts are completely collapsed
Guess that could be causing some of the problems...'88 Rangie, 3.9i, Bilstein Shocks and RS Springs, ARB Lockers F&R, 24spline rear axles, Flares, [url=http://users.on.net/~vethaak/Projects.htm]Custom centre console and cargo shelves[/url]
I am reluctant to post on this in the face of the overwhelming Bilstein push but here goes.
I spoke to Graeme Cooper about it today and he agreed that Bilsteins create a harsh ride on rougher roads with air suspension.
He also said that ACE equipped Discos should definitely not have Bilsteins fitted at all as the ride is unbearable, and Bilstein had deleted reference to this model.
Graeme said that he recommended anyone wanting to buy Bilsteins for an air suspended car , to see them and they could arrange for the shocks to be revalved to suit, but this is an extra $160.
Graeme said he had approached Bilstein on many occasions to fit softer valving but they had taken no action.
Regards Philip A
I spoke to Graeme Cooper about it today and he agreed that Bilsteins create a harsh ride on rougher roads with air suspension.
He also said that ACE equipped Discos should definitely not have Bilsteins fitted at all as the ride is unbearable, and Bilstein had deleted reference to this model.
Graeme said that he recommended anyone wanting to buy Bilsteins for an air suspended car , to see them and they could arrange for the shocks to be revalved to suit, but this is an extra $160.
Graeme said he had approached Bilstein on many occasions to fit softer valving but they had taken no action.
Regards Philip A
Surprised to see my old post being replied after so long.
Anyway just for your info i replaced them with a factory damper and it rides so much better....
I heard one issue with aftermarket absorbers is that they tend to be slightly longer and will damage the airsprings at full articulation....
Well i believe its possible coz i've damaged my EAS b4 when trying to ramp the car. The bag got ripped and that was using standard suspension.
Anyway just for your info i replaced them with a factory damper and it rides so much better....
I heard one issue with aftermarket absorbers is that they tend to be slightly longer and will damage the airsprings at full articulation....
Well i believe its possible coz i've damaged my EAS b4 when trying to ramp the car. The bag got ripped and that was using standard suspension.
My RIG sucks big time.
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