How to do a 4 inch lift Properly

[Canetoad]

After reading a number of threads on doing a 4 inch lift on a SWB Mav I am getting more and more confused so I am hoping some of you guys who have had a lot more experience than me can set me straight. I want to run 35' Extreme treckers on a SWB Mav while keeping the COG as low as possible so will cut and trim guards rather than body lift. I am after a 4" lift that will give me good articulation but still allow fast driving over secondary dirt roads and not have any funny handling problems or shakes. Cost is not a big isue but doing it properly is. The truck will be used for club runs and to get me started in winch challenge events. Hope you can help.

[ludacris]

what state and town

[Mad Cruiser]

Dude, i think his nickname pretty much states it all.

He's a Queenslander !

[Daisy]

After reading a number of threads on doing a 4 inch lift on a SWB Mav I am getting more and more confused so I am hoping some of you guys who have had a lot more experience than me can set me straight. I want to run 35' Extreme treckers on a SWB Mav while keeping the COG as low as possible so will cut and trim guards rather than body lift. I am after a 4" lift that will give me good articulation but still allow fast driving over secondary dirt roads and not have any funny handling problems or shakes. Cost is not a big isue but doing it properly is. The truck will be used for club runs and to get me started in winch challenge events. Hope you can help.

.

Ok. to have it done properly . you should check out wizard performance or cheezy racing or any other well known 4x4 outlet that can install the kit properly and without dramas or problems.

If you intend to do it yourself.. Wizard performance do kits and they're race proven - kym bolton runs simliar gear to what wizard sell.

I just put together my own package of dobinsons and wizards and whitelines and koni/ranchos.. soon to be tough dog rears..

Good luck

TOM

[Canetoad]

I live in QLD and live on the Gold Coast. I know people say go with the wizard kit or whoever else but if you look at what each of these manafactures say there kits are all a bit different. Do I need a DC tail shaft, front and rear adjustable panhard bars, adustable rear upper and lower control arms, gearbox packers, move suspension mounts etc. Not looking for easiest solution looking for best solution. Looked at the snake racing 5" extreme lift kit which retails for $4650 which looks good to me plus they recomend a DC rear shaft if using the kit in a SWB. Looking for your recomendations.

[Daisy]

I live in QLD and live on the Gold Coast. I know people say go with the wizard kit or whoever else but if you look at what each of these manafactures say there kits are all a bit different. Do I need a DC tail shaft, front and rear adjustable panhard bars, adustable rear upper and lower control arms, gearbox packers, move suspension mounts etc. Not looking for easiest solution looking for best solution. Looked at the snake racing 5" extreme lift kit which retails for $4650 which looks good to me plus they recomend a DC rear shaft if using the kit in a SWB. Looking for your recomendations.

Pay a visit to brent @ wizard and have a chat to him. hes a top bloke and will be more than happy to accommodate your needs and being in the gold coast you can just rock up if you have any dramas with the suspension - much easier locally than interstate..

But thats for you to decide...

[turps]

From what I have read to get a 4"susp lift some of the things you can do to stop the vibes.
First up the front is an easy one, fit twin shocks and you may be able to get away without any caster mods. But if you do need them there are small caster plates (I would avoid the csater bushes - as they limit travel and dont last long if worked hard).
I would also space the front axle forwards 15mm with radius arm spacers (there about $30 from memory - I have them fitted and they stopped the tires from rubbing).

For the rear. The lower control arms can be made longer, approx 16mm (dont need ajustable - get them made the right length the first time). Panhard rods, you dont need ajustable ones if you only plan on a 4" lift. Just put your coils in and get new ones made to the right lenght.

If there is still vibes, Cheezy has new HD Engine mounts that lift the motor an 1". This changes the angles of the unis at the gearbox for the better (also they look very strong and if the rubber craps it self the motor still aint going to move much).

[Canetoad]

Thanks for the good info turps

[JemmyBubbles]

What he said !!

I have just whacked a 4" lift in my SWB GQ. Lifts over 2" in these things are fidly, but you're aware of that, as far as drivetrain steering geo... etc

5" Coils upfront and rear is 4" is set up for my winch which is going on soon. It's got the tough dog adjustables mmmm nice n big (I Guess strong ??? ). 5.5 degree castor plates and still not quite at factory 2.5.
I would suggest cutting and rotating the radius arm mounts

Basically as far as driveline vibrations go either do the "cheezy" way or DC way both work well. Ummm I personally went DC shaft with adjustable upper arms as I know a few folks that have done it with great success combined with longevity, and cause I do lotso highway driving. Cheezy's method works because of the angles your outputs (transfer, pinion) are placed at. Apparently your stock shaft can handle it but go any higher......

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/driveline/

have a geez it explains why each method works

You'll also find that your front 3 link is useless as tits on a bull ie; very little droop or compression. A compromise.. but can be incorporated into driving style ie keep front flat on the deack and let the flexy assed rear do the work.

Yeah no need for adjustable pahnards... found out the hard way ... $260 each arrrgghh !!!! . Well you can make an adjustment to the rear but it is minute sooo. Get stronger adjustable drag link. I have already bent my lower standar arm on a rock sooo strengthen...

Stay away from X member spacers they are the devil. They screw with the angle your front shaft is on and generally make it quite nasty. Therefore you may need to cut a notch in your Xmember cause your front shaft may contact with it.

Yeah thats where I am at...

Hope it helps ???

[Canetoad]

Thanks for your great input Jennybubbles. Has anybody used or want to coment on the Snake racing drop radius arms, Are they a good thing?

[HeathGQ]

I am so confused now guys. I picking up 4" coils this weekend, and starting to plan the rest of teh bits to get it right. This is LWB so a bit different. The car needs to run right on road.

Panhards - One says adjustables, one says get them made to the right length. Can see merits in both.

Lower Trailing arms - Again adjustable or non adjustable. Strengthened of coarse. and lengthened sounds like the way the go.

Upper trailing arms - do these need mucking around with? Lengthened, adjustable????

Radii arms (Plural, sorry nerdy me) - Spaced to move diff forward.

Shocks - 4" are easy to find.

Springs - Do I retain them?

[JemmyBubbles]

"Jennybubbles "

ARRRGGHHHHHH

JemmyBubbles.... those two n's turn me into a women... I gotta do something bout that...


Honestly with a LWB you will find...apart from the castor issues that generally adjustable trailing arms are not needed. My club president at home has a Longy with 6" coils with all standard strengthened trailing arms. Interestingly for a stronger drag link he sourced a tie rod of a later model gq and whacked that on as the drag link. But I would just buy one from snake racing or somewhere.

You honestly wont need to do a thing about your panhard rods. As the amount of adjustability that is needed for a 4" lift is small even non existant. Most definately not worth the 230 each.

I bought my kit w/ 2 adjustable upper arms and had my castor corrected then took it too a truck wheel alignment place to get the panhard bar adjustment done, the guuy basically said he couldn't really adjust the bar I bought as he needed like 1/4 of a turn. So I was disapointed, however the bars are damned strong though.

Your better off getting a stronger adjustable drag link and strengthening your lower arms + 5.5 degree castor plates (No bushes... bushes = urethane = bad).

[bogged]

Looked at the snake racing 5" extreme lift kit which retails for $4650 which looks good to me plus they recomend a DC rear shaft if using the kit in a SWB. Looking for your recomendations.

FOUR AND HALF GRAND?
ya kidding!!!


Do you need a 4in lift? Shortys have all sorts of hassles with big lifts.
Why do you need a 4inch lift?

[bogged]

I am so confused now guys. I picking up 4" coils this weekend, and starting to plan the rest of teh bits to get it right. This is LWB so a bit different. The car needs to run right on road.

LWB dont have issues with 4inch lifts.

Panhards - One says adjustables, one says get them made to the right length. Can see merits in both.

Adjustables allow for changes later.

Lower Trailing arms - Again adjustable or non adjustable. Strengthened of coarse. and lengthened sounds like the way the go.

DIdnt change mine.

Upper trailing arms - do these need mucking around with? Lengthened, adjustable????

Ditto

Radii arms (Plural, sorry nerdy me) - Spaced to move diff forward.

For what tires? My 34's are no issue. 12 mm spacer can help with SOME 35's and bigger

Shocks - 4" are easy to find.

yup.

Springs - Do I retain them?

Depends on the rest of the setup, no with mine.
I went the bigballs kit.