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body lifting 80 ?
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
body lifting 80 ?
Just finished giving my wifes 80 a 50mm body lift which was faily easy other than the front body bolts being pricks to get to and having to drop the radiator 20mm so that the auto lines that go in the radiator would clear the fan
My question is what have others done with the steering shaft where it comes through the fire wall? To me it looks like I need to remove the plate around it and redrill the holes in it so that it sits down a little bit lower as the shaft is sitting against it and makes the steering heavier.
I`ll post some pics later on today after I lift the bullbar
Oh and as for the rear step/bar I haven`t done anything with it so it sits up at the front of the returns and looks a bit funny, I have plans on putting a kaymar rear bar on it later so I`ll worry about it then.
My question is what have others done with the steering shaft where it comes through the fire wall? To me it looks like I need to remove the plate around it and redrill the holes in it so that it sits down a little bit lower as the shaft is sitting against it and makes the steering heavier.
I`ll post some pics later on today after I lift the bullbar
Oh and as for the rear step/bar I haven`t done anything with it so it sits up at the front of the returns and looks a bit funny, I have plans on putting a kaymar rear bar on it later so I`ll worry about it then.
Gday, cant say ive heard of that problem b4. Did you loosen any of the uni's on the steering shafts b4 lifting?
Guessing here, but maybe the bottom shaft of the column with its uni has dropped to compensate for length if the bolt hasnt been loosened at the steering box coupling to allow some movement there.
Andrew
Guessing here, but maybe the bottom shaft of the column with its uni has dropped to compensate for length if the bolt hasnt been loosened at the steering box coupling to allow some movement there.
Andrew
Yes the slipe joints have been moved out a bit, the rag joint under the dash sits straight not all bendy so to speak.
Another thing I noticed just before was that I couldn`t get low range . All that took was removing the little stick and straightening out the bend in me press
Its only an alloy bar ATM (have ARB one lined up) so it was just a matter of taking it off and redrilling 3 holes per side, so it was as easy as taking a shit.
Still haven`t taken any pics yet as its now dark, will do so tomorrow arvo when I get home from work, if its not dark
Something to remember for anybody that is a tight arse like me is you can reuse the 2 front body mount bolts in the 2 most rear mounts once a 50mm lift is in.
Another thing I noticed just before was that I couldn`t get low range . All that took was removing the little stick and straightening out the bend in me press
Its only an alloy bar ATM (have ARB one lined up) so it was just a matter of taking it off and redrilling 3 holes per side, so it was as easy as taking a shit.
Still haven`t taken any pics yet as its now dark, will do so tomorrow arvo when I get home from work, if its not dark
Something to remember for anybody that is a tight arse like me is you can reuse the 2 front body mount bolts in the 2 most rear mounts once a 50mm lift is in.
our old 80 had a 50mm body lift, still running around I believe with no problems, 4 years & counting, did nothing where the shaft went through the firewall but did loosen the slip joint. keep checking the front bolts are tight, found ours tended to come loose which ended with a split mount under the radiator on the drivers side.
HOO ROO ROD
105 TDi Sydney
IT'S A FINE LINE BETWEEN CLEVER & STUPID
old age & cunning will over come youth & exuberance
105 TDi Sydney
IT'S A FINE LINE BETWEEN CLEVER & STUPID
old age & cunning will over come youth & exuberance
Just completed the same lift on my 80. Could be a late model thing with the steerin shaft, as everyone told me I wouldn't need to do anything other than loosen the shaft prior tothe lift.
At first I thought maybe the body had slipped backwards but after all the holes lined up and the bolts dropped strait through this couldn't have been the case.
I went and bought an off cut of 75mm Dia x 15mm thick polyurethane $5.00, split the flexi couplink under the dash, drilled and fitted the Poly, took 20mins. Better than new I reckon due to the polyU dampening out any vibrations.
Also dropped the Radiator by simply moving the original mounts up to the next bolt. this was enough for the lower hose and ATlines to clear the A/C pump and Fan. Others I spoke to simply cut the shroud, but I'm guessing they didn't have A/Con or and Auto.
Have all the pics for this if anyone's interested.
At first I thought maybe the body had slipped backwards but after all the holes lined up and the bolts dropped strait through this couldn't have been the case.
I went and bought an off cut of 75mm Dia x 15mm thick polyurethane $5.00, split the flexi couplink under the dash, drilled and fitted the Poly, took 20mins. Better than new I reckon due to the polyU dampening out any vibrations.
Also dropped the Radiator by simply moving the original mounts up to the next bolt. this was enough for the lower hose and ATlines to clear the A/C pump and Fan. Others I spoke to simply cut the shroud, but I'm guessing they didn't have A/Con or and Auto.
Have all the pics for this if anyone's interested.
Lifted, locked, loaded, reduced, rolled, and rowed
FZJ80, 1FZ-FE, A442F, 37's & 5.29's.
FZJ80, 1FZ-FE, A442F, 37's & 5.29's.
Two different sets, The 80 has 10 mounted blocks, the four front and Rear are different to the inside 6.
For the inside 6 I used the Polyurethane blocks supplied by Rhyno in QLD. These replace the existing rubber mounts and I think give a better ride.
However I didn't like the idea of using them for the front and rear. Looking at the design of the original mounts they were obviously designed to handle lateral and diagonal forces, so for these I retained the original rubber and more importantly the mounting plates and squeezed a 50mm tall x 75mm Dia UHMWPolyethelene Puck from Cheezy Racing in VIC. The 75 dia block is piece of mind...
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=22566
Will post the URL to the ALL the pics tomorrow hopefully.
For the inside 6 I used the Polyurethane blocks supplied by Rhyno in QLD. These replace the existing rubber mounts and I think give a better ride.
However I didn't like the idea of using them for the front and rear. Looking at the design of the original mounts they were obviously designed to handle lateral and diagonal forces, so for these I retained the original rubber and more importantly the mounting plates and squeezed a 50mm tall x 75mm Dia UHMWPolyethelene Puck from Cheezy Racing in VIC. The 75 dia block is piece of mind...
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=22566
Will post the URL to the ALL the pics tomorrow hopefully.
Lifted, locked, loaded, reduced, rolled, and rowed
FZJ80, 1FZ-FE, A442F, 37's & 5.29's.
FZJ80, 1FZ-FE, A442F, 37's & 5.29's.
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