3rd's Productions stuff & Wheel Bearings.

Post by **JemmyBubbles** » Tue Jul 20, 2004 7:35 am

went for a dive into sydney yesterday and grabbed me some of 3rd's productions upper on-car adjustable arms for my gq shorty... mmmmm on car adjustment....

I was talking to the guy about those billet from control arms, apparently he can't keep up with the demand. $1495 will get you a pair and he was claiming they were getting flex just as good as a 5 link.

Apparently they've had people change from 5 links to these arms and were exceedingly happy. Drives as well on road as off.

Finally I'ma getting some squeaking noise when cornering to the right from my rhs wheel. I am guessing this is wheel bearing action. Obviously they need repacking with grease... Is this a job best left to a mechanic or could I do it at home.. I have hear stories of people creating shimies because they don't torque things up enough...true false ?

Any pointers would be great...

cheers

Post by **Josh_GQ** » Tue Jul 20, 2004 2:53 pm

front wheel bearings are easy as to repack or replace. grap a workshop manual if your a bit unsure

Post by **Canetoad** » Tue Jul 20, 2004 5:17 pm

Sorry for the stupid question but who are 3rds productions? are the billet control arms similar to the radius arms sold by snake racing to fix caster? do they have a web site?

thanx

Post by **JemmyBubbles** » Tue Jul 20, 2004 6:03 pm

The last 4wd monthly had the arms in it... They look similar to the snake racing ones... except they have a swivelling bush type setup - similar to an 80 series. This allows for more flex over the standard arrangement....

They don't have a website yet....

Do you get what I mean ??

Post by **Bartso** » Tue Jul 20, 2004 7:13 pm

JemmyBubbles wrote:claiming they were getting flex just as good as a 5 link.

Your travel is limited by your shocks if you don't want maximum travel then thirds would be ok here is how i see it although the aftermarket arms from thirds may have more articulation than standard a 5 link is the only way to get maximum articulation on the standard arms or thirds arms if the left hand side is going up and the right hand side is coming down the left hand side going up is rotating the diff backwards and the right hand side is going down is rotating forward with both sides going against each other it limits the amount of travel allowed and a 5 link prevents this correct me if im wrong this is the way i see it though

Post by **JemmyBubbles** » Tue Jul 20, 2004 7:51 pm

Yeah that makes sense...

As i said somewhere else... I am a bolt on whore so I cant really make any statements about that sorta shite myself I am really just passing on what he was saying.

But I would like to see vids of the things in action though....as of yet there aint any photos circulating.
I would like to send my car to cheezy and have the weelbase stretched to aboot 100" with A frame rear and 5 link front... but no dosh... soo these things seem interesting to me.... get the utmost out of the 3 link....

Post by **Bartso** » Tue Jul 20, 2004 8:08 pm

well apparently they will give you more articulation i believe they should anyway here's a picture of the ones from snake racing

Post by **Cheezy4x4** » Tue Jul 20, 2004 8:10 pm

All I can say is

JUST DO IT.

Post by **ozy1** » Tue Jul 20, 2004 9:59 pm

i believe the thirds ones, will allow more travel than the snakes racing products,

the main difference between the two is snake racing sticks with the original nissan pin type arrangement,
where as
the 3rds are basically a pin to eye adaptor and an 80 series arm, that is the best way to describe them, these will allow the arm to drop, more as there is less binding, the pin will not bind up, the main drama with these would be if you were to jump your car, and have both front wheels off the ground, the main limiting factor will be your shocks or limiting straps if fitted, if you only have shock you will end up destroying them,

just my point of view.................................

Post by **JemmyBubbles** » Tue Jul 20, 2004 10:27 pm

Yeah thought aboot that for a bit.... Doesn't sound good. The things seem to be able to swivel freely and unhindered so yeah that would be a real drama... Why don't 80 series arms have an issue ?

Post by **ozy1** » Wed Jul 21, 2004 4:44 pm

it will all come down to a correctly matched shock length to spring lenght on droop, im not sure if the 80 sereis have this issue, but i would recomend limiting straps,

my self and A1MAV have spoken about this previosly through PM's

Post by **Wendle** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 7:43 am

ozy1 wrote:the main drama with these would be if you were to jump your car, and have both front wheels off the ground, the main limiting factor will be your shocks or limiting straps if fitted, if you only have shock you will end up destroying them

the rear end ends up hanging on just the shocks all the time. so why not the front.

it's only the unsprung weight hanging on it, and there would be less stress on the shocks being airborne, than being at max travel with the leverage of the compressed side tring to stretch the extended side even more.

if you're gonna jump your truck lots, you should really think about clamping your springs in, landing would kinda suck if one fell out mid-flight.

should clamp them in anyways.

Post by **steel** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 12:05 pm

shockabsorbers limit droop front & rear on coilsprung Rovers & i've never had shock problems because of it. I sorta figured a Patrols frontend droop would would be limited by shock length too [them both being 3 link] but a rover has a different trailing arm to chassis mount that didn't bind up with even the 12 inch travel shocks I used.
How far can a Patrol front end droop before it binds? Surely with stock length shocks they are what limit down travel
Oh yey, My Rangie was air borne more than once

Post by **fatassgq** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 12:21 pm

patrol front ends are shit for flex! It aint no shock limiting the travel in a standard patrol front end.

Mine looks like the control arms would hit against the shock mount anyway even if it could get more flex. :roll:

Post by **steel** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 5:05 pm

Well I guess it's lucky the front end gives a nice ride at least hey.
The rear of mine is stiff as month old shit & it's got stock coils & shocks.[ute's must have heavier coils in the rear than wagons]
Plus an ali tray

Post by **JemmyBubbles** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 7:54 pm

Yeah I literally get no flex at all out of my Shorties front with 4" spings and castor plates. ARRRGGHGHh !!! :bad-words:

Drives great though...

But that is an interesting point.... My shocks in the rear do limit my travel.... :oops:

No harm in the front eh ?!!

Bring on those flexy radius arms !!!

Post by **Bartso** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 7:59 pm

as soon as i save up money im getting either a calbah 5 link front end or a bolt on 5 link from wizard performance

Post by **hotrod4x4** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 10:27 pm

wouldnt go calbah
shit
an no product support

any drama's , they wipe their hands of u

Post by **Bartso** » Fri Jul 23, 2004 9:01 pm

anyone tried the wizard 5 link?? anyone got ideas on a 5 link

Post by **bru21** » Sat Jul 24, 2004 9:48 pm

i have a wizard 5 link. brents a top bloke but i don't know about his new distributors (northcoast 4x4) time will tell. great kit, weak suss looking rear mountings though. i took me ages till i could drive my truck again over 60 klm/ph after installing it ("7inch" - (81/2 front 91/2 rear)). shimmy and a lotta shite. you need to lower the top or raise the bottom mount for your panhard or it :roll:

will shimmy uncontrolably. set your swivel hubs to 15lb, set you castor by feel not by alignment mobs they know nothing! (buy the adj upper arms as his kit is not parabolic hence can't be right for all lifts - kinda defeting the 5 link's hole purpose).

cheers bru

Post by **bru21** » Sat Jul 24, 2004 9:49 pm

i have a wizard 5 link. brents a top bloke but i don't know about his new distributors (northcoast 4x4) time will tell. great kit, weak suss looking rear mountings though. i took me ages till i could drive my truck again over 60 klm/ph after installing it ("7inch" - (81/2 front 91/2 rear)). shimmy and a lotta shite. you need to lower the top or raise the bottom mount for your panhard or it :roll:

will shimmy uncontrolably. set your swivel hubs to 15lb, set you castor by feel not by alignment mobs they know nothing! (buy the adj upper arms as his kit is not parabolic hence can't be right for all lifts - kinda defeting the 5 link's hole purpose).

cheers bru

Post by **Dirty Dave** » Sat Jul 31, 2004 4:22 pm

I spoke to the bloke from 3rd's bout the front radius arms and he uses a double oringed bearing - whereas an 80 series uses a bush...even though his ad in the 4wd modified depicts a bush style arrangement.....hmm I am thinking of getting his arms and ditchin the 4" dropmounts I currently am running but...$1495 pair....3rd productions arms aren't engineered yet :cry:

and like all the custom made shite that is flooding the market whats the point of having the car insured or even registered if your going to get knocked back on a insurance claim or even worse get REAMED in an accident. :idea:

Am waiting for the approval of his arms then I will go that way - even though in QLD you can get dropmounts Blue plated. Also the 3rds arms come complete with genuine nissan diff bushes and poly radius to chassis bushes. To sum it all up DOT.SUX :twisted:

Post by A1 » Sun Aug 08, 2004 9:21 pm

Was havin a squiz ova the 3rds add in 4wd monthly this arvo and noticed (not sure if its been mention b4 ) that the ones in the pic seem to have a slotted bush arrangement similair to the bushes that Sam aka StrangeRover was/is makin for rangies and disco's and like ....................

I would assume this has alot todo with the claims in increase articulation as the slotted bushes make a hell of a difference in the rangies.................

I dont like the sounds of the poly bush .......................on the end from pin to chassi ................

although i wonder if they are runnin slotted bushes would larv to find out who is makin em 4 them as i would like to try a set ...........as Sam is in no hurry to start a line of the slotteds to suit the GQ?GU's...................press these into our arms and n hopefully gain some flex :armsup:

......................

A1

Post by **JemmyBubbles** » Mon Aug 09, 2004 4:40 pm

I just read and looked at some of those pics of sams disco w/ those bushes in them. Man that made a huge difference. Being that rangie arms are similar design to a Gq's you'd reckon that would help alot..

However....

When I went into the shop the guy just had genuine nissan rubber radius arm bushes pressed into the things. I know what you mean about that magazine picture it does look like it has a slotted bush. The bloke was more pointing to the swivelling 80 series style joint at the chassis end of the arm as being the source of newfound flex.

Buy anywayz back to the actual wheel bearing question I initially had.
Can someone (probably bazzle

) give me a rough guide as to what I am doing. I aint ever pulled a hub appart, I have watched the old man though. But some sort of guide/help on re-packing the wheel bearings with grease would be sweet ?

Cheers,

Jeremy

Post by **bazzle** » Mon Aug 09, 2004 5:11 pm

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenan ... /teardown/
and following pages at bottom of link.

This Toyot* link has all the goodies. Nissan very similar.
I posted how to somewhere once, cant find it, not sure what site even!

Read link then ask what your not sure about :cool:

Bazzle

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3rd's Productions stuff & Wheel Bearings.

3rd's Productions stuff & Wheel Bearings.

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