Bodylift longevity

Post by **pj68** » Tue Jul 13, 2004 9:07 pm

Looking at relenting and checking out body lifts. I've seen the usual aray of body blocks but noticed one kit had square RHS tube which I assume is welded to the chassis. I note an article in 4WD Monthly where they did this on their Patrol project to improve rigidity. What are your thoughts, anyone had problem with bodylift blocks in the long term? I am only looking at 2" lift to prevent any hassles with the RTA.

Post by **LilBlkDuck** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 3:26 pm

Be careful using any box section. This used to be pretty standard spesh for Zook owners; however lateral forces on box tend to see it folding. They're all now going for solid pucks.
Your better off using UltraHighMolecularWeightPolyEthylene or Alloy or even HDPolyUrethane if you can find it. The latter is the best for vibe absorption but is 5 times the cost of UHMWPE , also there's so many different grades of the stuff you need a plastics engineer to guide you.
Having just completed my '96 80 Series I'll be dumping the step by step on the web very soon.
What rig are you running?

Post by **4sum4** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 4:22 pm

the project GQ had the front mounts raised by using the box section,
If your going to use box section have it so the cut edge is facing out and use crush tubes and don`t weld it to the chassis and also you got to put rubber and the origanal rubber between the chassis and the box section

Post by **pj68** » Thu Jul 15, 2004 1:51 pm

Thanks for your replies. I'm driving a 92 dual cab hilux with 2" suspension lift and 235/85R16 (32") tyres. I'm looking to stop the tyres rubbing the back of the inner guards under compression and perhaps even larger tyres. You're right about the project GQ my memory let me down again. I'll rephrase! Am I better to raise some of the mounts as they raised the front mounts in the article or will blocks do the job well enough (read safe long term).

Post by **4sum4** » Thu Jul 15, 2004 4:24 pm

Just get 2" blocks and you will clear 33`s and with a bit more work to clear 35`s

Post by **pulux** » Thu Jul 15, 2004 5:18 pm

You shouldn't rule out moving your front diff forward. Will cost you nothing and will clear 33's straight away. 35's will fit with a body lift later on. Just a suggestion

Post by **HIL01X** » Sat Jul 17, 2004 1:09 pm

pulux wrote:You shouldn't rule out moving your front diff forward. Will cost you nothing and will clear 33's straight away. 35's will fit with a body lift later on. Just a suggestion

I'd like to know how to do it and cost nothing? You would have to shorten the steering and diff locating rod, (unless you had crossover steering already, big cost) and lenghten the tailshaft ($150+).
My body lift only cost about $20 for new bolts and I used some plastic type stuff (an old cheese mould) which i cut holes in with a holesaw and used the holes for the lift blocks. Cheap and works (so far). :idea:

Post by **pulux** » Sat Jul 17, 2004 6:29 pm

I'd like to know how to do it and cost nothing?

I'm guessing since it already has 2" springs that an adjustable torque rod is there too.I didn't have to mess with steering arms or driveshafts cos it's only necessary to move the diff around 25-30mm to have the desired effect. My steering wheel is now upside down tho. :finger:

Easy fix.

Or you could just do a body lift.. I'd be using the puck-type ones for sure.

Post by **ORSM45** » Sat Jul 17, 2004 9:15 pm

if i remember correctly, some states will only allow aluminium or steel lift blocks. is this true?

Post by **pj68** » Tue Jul 20, 2004 8:11 pm

Hey Pulux,
I do have an adjustable torque rod. From what you've described about moving your diff forward I imagine you wouldn't be able to turn left as tight as you could right because your pitman arm wouldn't be centred when the wheels were straight. Am I right?[/quote]

Post by **mach289** » Tue Jul 20, 2004 10:57 pm

LilBlkDuck

would you be able to give me more info on the body life u did as i want to go that way with my 105 series

Thanks

Post by **LilBlkDuck** » Wed Jul 21, 2004 11:16 am

No problem, I'm squeezing the pics for the build up as I type, I hope to have it in a easy step by step process this weekend.

Post by **mach289** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 8:08 pm

That would be great as I have spoken to some work shops and they are talking over $1000 to do a body lift.
thanks

Post by **pulux** » Fri Jul 23, 2004 7:39 pm

pj,

I honestly haven't noticed any difference between full lock left and right. I say give it a go, if it doesn't happen then just slip it back into the original holes and pick up some lift blocks, nothing lost. That what I thought when i did it. Got Drill bits? Home and hosed.

Post by **pulux** » Fri Jul 23, 2004 7:48 pm

oops double post. bit drunk.

Post by **Birlo** » Sat Jul 24, 2004 2:05 am

Where are you putting the bodylift pics - It wouldn't be that different for 60 would it?
Why get the "proper" stuff?
Go and buy some high tensile bolts
Go to your local industrial plastic shop - buy some blocks, theres a special type Its in my post... albeit written by someone else
Thats it - go from there
Thats what I'm doin' its over $300 for a "proper" bodylift
I can do the same thing for around $100

Post by **mach289** » Sat Jul 24, 2004 10:24 pm

Birlo
Whats the name of this plastic? Will the engineers be happy with it.
What about the bolts whats the grade needed.
I just dont want to void my insurance.

Post by **mach289** » Sat Jul 24, 2004 10:27 pm

Birlo
Whats the name of this plastic? Will the engineers be happy with it.
What about the bolts whats the grade needed.
I just dont want to void my insurance.

Post by **LilBlkDuck** » Mon Jul 26, 2004 8:59 am

Whats the name of this plastic? Will the engineers be happy with it.
What about the bolts whats the grade needed.
I just dont want to void my insurance.

True it's easier to get a pre-approved kit passed the engineers but don't be fooled into spending big bucks on a kit. All it means is that they have had trucks approved in the past with an identical kit. What they are selling is NOT PRE-approved and can still fail engineering. No certificates come with the kits.

You can buy 1m of 50mm UHMWPolyethalene for about $67.00
If cutting and drilling yourself then this is the stuff. Don't even think about using Polyurethane, it's a mongral to cut and drill, plus the varieties are endless. Not the way to go for DIY.

Post by **LilBlkDuck** » Tue Jul 27, 2004 3:55 pm

For those who asked this URL is now active. Forgive any spelling it was a little rushed. hope you find it helpfull :lol:

http://littleblackduck.vixmule.net

Post by **mach289** » Wed Jul 28, 2004 12:25 am

LilBlkDuck

Just checked out your site, very good.
Its just a matter of time and i will give it a go.
How long does it take to do. I was thinking 1-2 days, to play it safe.

Post by **LilBlkDuck** » Wed Jul 28, 2004 8:41 am

Depends on you. If you source all your bits'n'pieces first and dont stop to clean, fix, take pix etc... then a full day is more than enough.
I tend to stretch it out to keep me out of the wifes way and clear of weekend cleaning. :agrue:

Post by **Shadow** » Wed Jul 28, 2004 10:10 am

dunno bout other states but qld will only pass alu or steel blocks.

Post by **maty** » Wed Jul 28, 2004 2:52 pm

go for a nylon block low creep rating (sag of material over time under load).
use a 60mm diameter by 50mm high block with about 11mm hole for a 10mm bolt.

the two front lift blocks however must use a 50mm diameter due to reduced space.

also the nylon reduces driveline noise and vibration in the body, due to the nylon itself absorbing the vibration.

mat

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