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What happend to my steering ?
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
What happend to my steering ?
Ok not long ago i welded up the front diff and the goes unreal now BUT when the hubs are locked in i cant turn the steering wheel to the right more than half a turn
I have P/S and i've seen people with out P/S turn their car wtf is going on?

----HillBilly Engineering----
Re: What happend to my steering ?
MY45 wrote:Ok not long ago i welded up the front diff and the goes unreal now BUT when the hubs are locked in i cant turn the steering wheel to the right more than half a turnI have P/S and i've seen people with out P/S turn their car wtf is going on?
Did you let Hottiemonster drive your car?
This is not legal advice.
Might have something to do with that Bir that got grenaded fit the other in and see if it goes away and also while its on the stands lock the hubs in and full lock it to that side spin the wheels to see if the CV`s bind might have a bent nuckle or somthing
[url=http://downunder4x4.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1650]86 Hilux[/url]
and a 84 extra cab
If Rocks Had P^ssies Our Lives Would Be Perfect :D...
and a 84 extra cab
If Rocks Had P^ssies Our Lives Would Be Perfect :D...
daddylonglegs wrote:I hope you have a shed full of spare CV's with that welded diff.
A welded diff shouldn't place any more stress on the diff than an air locker, so if i disengauge one hub when the locker isnt needed i cant se why it would pop cv's? Please explain why it would?
bazzle wrote:Seen them all now... Welded front diff.
Your lucky it even steers a bit one way.
Bazzle
Why do you say that bazzle? Its just like and air locker only theres no air and to engage it you have to get out and lock in the 2nd hub

----HillBilly Engineering----
If you have selectable lockers you can disengage them for tight turns off road. with a welded diff you can't so your poor old Cv,s have to cope with transmission windup and the added stresses as your wheels must scrabble hop and slip to make a turn. I don't know if your free wheel hubs have a spring loaded disengaging mechanism, but I think you may even have difficulty unlocking one with all that windup unless you jack a front wheel off the ground.
A neighbor of mine has a similar setup to yours on his toyota tray, but it is only useful when he is feeding his cattle on the soft, soggy paddocks on his farm, and a lot of tedious, tiresome and potentially dangerous hard work to drive on mountain trails.
Bill.
A neighbor of mine has a similar setup to yours on his toyota tray, but it is only useful when he is feeding his cattle on the soft, soggy paddocks on his farm, and a lot of tedious, tiresome and potentially dangerous hard work to drive on mountain trails.
Bill.
daddylonglegs wrote:If you have selectable lockers you can disengage them for tight turns off road. with a welded diff you can't so your poor old Cv,s have to cope with transmission windup and the added stresses as your wheels must scrabble hop and slip to make a turn. I don't know if your free wheel hubs have a spring loaded disengaging mechanism, but I think you may even have difficulty unlocking one with all that windup unless you jack a front wheel off the ground.
A neighbor of mine has a similar setup to yours on his toyota tray, but it is only useful when he is feeding his cattle on the soft, soggy paddocks on his farm, and a lot of tedious, tiresome and potentially dangerous hard work to drive on mountain trails.
Bill.
Yep it is but untill i can afford an air locker thats what will hapen and being able to select 2wd low takes loads of stress off the front
----HillBilly Engineering----
MY45
I was talking re when hubs in . as per the other post.
If its down to $$$ use the welded diff in the rear. Not as bad off rd as a welded front and wont break anything (more $$$)
If you do a real lot of bitmen work then your way is prob best for now.
I have been stuck in the past with a front Lockrite, (dont go there) going down a very steep hill with turns over big ruts, I could not turn the wheel to steer and kept going straight ahead on the dangerous corner.
I couldnt unlock hubs due to wind up neither, not that the situation would of been safe in 2 whel drive either.
Bazzle
I was talking re when hubs in . as per the other post.
If its down to $$$ use the welded diff in the rear. Not as bad off rd as a welded front and wont break anything (more $$$)
If you do a real lot of bitmen work then your way is prob best for now.
I have been stuck in the past with a front Lockrite, (dont go there) going down a very steep hill with turns over big ruts, I could not turn the wheel to steer and kept going straight ahead on the dangerous corner.
I couldnt unlock hubs due to wind up neither, not that the situation would of been safe in 2 whel drive either.
Bazzle

Im here for the sausage!
t
MY45, i hear ya on the lack of funds.
its obviously your power steering.
Im a good bloke! i will trade you my armstrong steering for your P/S set up!!!!
i reckon with mine you will be able to turn right and left no dramas.
only problem will be your arms getting bigger and bigger!!!
saving you a gym membership too!
I should be australian of the year for helping you out at my own sacrifice....
its obviously your power steering.
Im a good bloke! i will trade you my armstrong steering for your P/S set up!!!!
i reckon with mine you will be able to turn right and left no dramas.
only problem will be your arms getting bigger and bigger!!!
saving you a gym membership too!
I should be australian of the year for helping you out at my own sacrifice....

My45, I am a little surprised that you are even able to shift into 2wd all that easily without backing up and generally stuffing around because of all the windup. The old BJ40 I had hated shifting from 4 to 2wd on firmish surfaces,and it had open diffs. I have never wheeled in the mountains around Canberra but I assume the tracks are similar to Victoria. How is it that your welded front diff hasn.t steered you over the edge of a two hundred foot cliff ?
Bill.
Bill.
Bush65 wrote:And 2wd on steep downhills would be dangerous as well.
In places other than fairly flat ground 2wd is not used and just one hub is locked in which leaves me with very near normal steering and still 4wd.
DIRTY ROCK STAR wrote:MY45, i hear ya on the lack of funds.
its obviously your power steering.
Im a good bloke! i will trade you my armstrong steering for your P/S set up!!!!
i reckon with mine you will be able to turn right and left no dramas.
only problem will be your arms getting bigger and bigger!!!
saving you a gym membership too!
I should be australian of the year for helping you out at my own sacrifice....
Rock star you are a true aussie champ


daddylonglegs wrote:My45, I am a little surprised that you are even able to shift into 2wd all that easily without backing up and generally stuffing around because of all the windup. The old BJ40 I had hated shifting from 4 to 2wd on firmish surfaces,and it had open diffs. I have never wheeled in the mountains around Canberra but I assume the tracks are similar to Victoria. How is it that your welded front diff hasn.t steered you over the edge of a two hundred foot cliff ?
Bill.
Bill to shift easily int 2wd all i do is point the wheels straight and while tapping the accelerator put pressure on the transfer lever. I wavn't done much wheeling with the welded front but so far i havn't run off any cliffs because i unlock one of the hubs which returns my steering to very near normal.
big red wrote:are you sure you havent got a buggered CV? i know it should not change your steering between hub locked and not but its all i can think of.
Red the cv's were replaced when the diff was welded and they looked good and moved freely
Adam
----HillBilly Engineering----
wouldnt unlocking 1 hub place alot of strain on the locked hub/CV?
it wouldnt act like an open diff as the entire torque is forced through that wheel.
personally id rather live without the dramas and leave the front open. but i have a air locker
is there any steering links that are getting caught or stuck. we had a similar problem (still do) on my brothers jeep. when turning full lock right you cant turn back. doesnt do it on left turns.
have someone sit under there and look at all the steering hubs etc. while you turn the wheel.
it wouldnt act like an open diff as the entire torque is forced through that wheel.
personally id rather live without the dramas and leave the front open. but i have a air locker

is there any steering links that are getting caught or stuck. we had a similar problem (still do) on my brothers jeep. when turning full lock right you cant turn back. doesnt do it on left turns.
have someone sit under there and look at all the steering hubs etc. while you turn the wheel.
chimpboy wrote:383FJ45 wrote:wouldnt unlocking 1 hub place alot of strain on the locked hub/CV?
it wouldnt act like an open diff as the entire torque is forced through that wheel.
Wouldn't the entire torque go to the unlocked side? I'm asking, not saying it would.
Jason
Since it is welded it will all go to the locked side. As the other side is just sitting there (yes it will spin at the same rate as the locked side but no load) so all load to the locked side.
THOUGHT FOR THE DAY....
383FJ45 wrote:wouldnt unlocking 1 hub place alot of strain on the locked hub/CV?
it wouldnt act like an open diff as the entire torque is forced through that wheel.
personally id rather live without the dramas and leave the front open. but i have a air locker![]()
is there any steering links that are getting caught or stuck. we had a similar problem (still do) on my brothers jeep. when turning full lock right you cant turn back. doesnt do it on left turns.
have someone sit under there and look at all the steering hubs etc. while you turn the wheel.
It wouldn't act exactly like an open diff, but it would still not be over stressfull, because one wheel is still able to free wheel (unlocked one). On flat ground straight ahead 50/50 torque to each wheel, then once you turn (say thge locked wheel is on the inside of the turn) instead of the inside wheel slowing down (because of the smaller radius) the outsie wheel ould simply speed up. An if the locked hub is on the outside it would act exactly like an open diff. This may therefore may place more stress on the cv when on the inside but i would not think enough to cause damage.
If you have another oppinin about that please tell me because my oppinin my be bias because i have the weld ed diff

Wouldn't we all rather live with out dramas...i want air locker
chimpboy wrote:383FJ45 wrote:wouldnt unlocking 1 hub place alot of strain on the locked hub/CV?
it wouldnt act like an open diff as the entire torque is forced through that wheel.
Wouldn't the entire torque go to the unlocked side? I'm asking, not saying it would.
Jason
No it wouldn't jason because the torque would be 50/50 to eact AXEL but because one hub is unlocked no tourque goes to that wheel which leaves all torque transfering to the locked hub/wheel... hope that helps
----HillBilly Engineering----
MY45 wrote:chimpboy wrote:Wouldn't the entire torque go to the unlocked side? I'm asking, not saying it would.
Jason
No it wouldn't jason because the torque would be 50/50 to eact AXEL but because one hub is unlocked no tourque goes to that wheel which leaves all torque transfering to the locked hub/wheel... hope that helps
You're right - brain fart. I was thinking of an open diff.
Jason
This is not legal advice.
does this mean I have to get Monty to find another busted air locker at a swap meet?
re steering I'd say you've got busted CV bits in one of your knuckles, or possibly one of your outer CV retaining c clips has popped off and the CV is sliding in to the axle too far causing misalignment and binding the steering.
re welded diff I say just drive it - the bundy was pretty steerable even with the front locked up, it only sucked in slippery conditions wanting to go straight ahead. you don't gain much steering by unlocking one hub, because the locked wheel still wants to travel at the same speed as the centre of the rear, so there is still binding/windup - but who cares, leave them locked, go crazy
re steering I'd say you've got busted CV bits in one of your knuckles, or possibly one of your outer CV retaining c clips has popped off and the CV is sliding in to the axle too far causing misalignment and binding the steering.
re welded diff I say just drive it - the bundy was pretty steerable even with the front locked up, it only sucked in slippery conditions wanting to go straight ahead. you don't gain much steering by unlocking one hub, because the locked wheel still wants to travel at the same speed as the centre of the rear, so there is still binding/windup - but who cares, leave them locked, go crazy

Free air locker to the first 20 callers!
I found the same thing at Ormeau on Sunday.......when we were playing at the creek at the rutted jump ups. The last attempt I forgot to turn the front locker off .... I thought I'd shagged the power steering again. Then I noticed the locker on DUUUUHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!
The only difference is you can't turn yours off.
There was a GQ trayback at Ormeau in the same place and it had a locked front.....every time he wanted to turn a corner, he had to get his hub bitch out to lock 'em in....that wouldn't get tiresome now would it!!!!
Live and learn hey!!
The only difference is you can't turn yours off.
There was a GQ trayback at Ormeau in the same place and it had a locked front.....every time he wanted to turn a corner, he had to get his hub bitch out to lock 'em in....that wouldn't get tiresome now would it!!!!
Live and learn hey!!
Big Dave, Scarborough, Qld
Loose Screws 4wd Racing Team
Loose Screws 4wd Racing Team
dumbdunce wrote:does this mean I have to get Monty to find another busted air locker at a swap meet?
re steering I'd say you've got busted CV bits in one of your knuckles, or possibly one of your outer CV retaining c clips has popped off and the CV is sliding in to the axle too far causing misalignment and binding the steering.
re welded diff I say just drive it - the bundy was pretty steerable even with the front locked up, it only sucked in slippery conditions wanting to go straight ahead. you don't gain much steering by unlocking one hub, because the locked wheel still wants to travel at the same speed as the centre of the rear, so there is still binding/windup - but who cares, leave them locked, go crazy
Brian i have this feeling that this may be the problem i'll pull my hubs off over the weekend and let you know if it was the prob
----HillBilly Engineering----
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