MQ h223b diff.
Anyone tell me in detail how to install and set up one of theres, and the diff around it. Pics would be great
cheers
Dave
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fitting air lockers
From memory something like this, check . (Good inst come with Airlockers.)
Raise nissan. pull out rear axles a few inches.
Remove tailshaft.
Open filler plug (incase you change your mind after draining and cant get oil back in.)
Drain oil
Remove centre. (heavy)
Put in big vice on bolted edge.
Check backlash with dial indicator in a few spots, write this down.
Check the feel and noise of the diff bearings for possible replacement.
Remove bearing lock bolt and back off adj nuts
Remove carrier bearing caps
Pull carrier out.
Put in a big vice to hold whilst undoing crown wheel bolts a bit a t a time.
Tap off crown wheel
Remove bearing seats if OK
Drill hole in top of diff casing for bulkhead fitting.
Press onto new carrier
Heat crown wheel up in boiling water
Tap onto carrier and fit bolts with locktite.
Try to get crown wheel seated with heavy soft hammer , do not use bolts to pull in, torque to specs.
Replace centre in housing with carrier bearings.Replace caps and oil everthing.
Hand tighten bearing adj nut on one side, replacement ARB one on other.
Adj across untill backlash same or 1 thou tighter or so as before.
Screw both adj nuts up very hand tight and recheck backlash and turning.
That bit and the next is bit where I cant remember all.
Fit seal housing on bearing cap and adj with feeler gauge all around until equal, take care not to damage seals.
If not central oil can pump back up line.
Bend copper coloured bundy tube around carrier until it meets bulkhead
fitting, fit nut and olive and tighten with a little bit of locktite.
If later type with self aligning seal housing put spring clip in retainer and ensure its sitting cenrtal. The pipe on these is copper.
Place airline at 90psi ( ablowoff gun will work) onto outside of fitting and ensure locker operates.
Replace centre in housing using just ultra blue or red as a sealing agent.
Refit axles, check preload on axles and adj shims to suit. (MQ/MK)
Fill with 75/140 etc normal diff oil or lsd oil if you have it kicking around to be used up.
Join up blue arline onto outside of fitting and check operation again.
I may of left somethings out.
Hopefully somone has the ARB directions handy for you.
Lots of pix on the NET, Google is your friend as they are very similar the Toyota and Rover.
Bazzle
Raise nissan. pull out rear axles a few inches.
Remove tailshaft.
Open filler plug (incase you change your mind after draining and cant get oil back in.)
Drain oil
Remove centre. (heavy)
Put in big vice on bolted edge.
Check backlash with dial indicator in a few spots, write this down.
Check the feel and noise of the diff bearings for possible replacement.
Remove bearing lock bolt and back off adj nuts
Remove carrier bearing caps
Pull carrier out.
Put in a big vice to hold whilst undoing crown wheel bolts a bit a t a time.
Tap off crown wheel
Remove bearing seats if OK
Drill hole in top of diff casing for bulkhead fitting.
Press onto new carrier
Heat crown wheel up in boiling water
Tap onto carrier and fit bolts with locktite.
Try to get crown wheel seated with heavy soft hammer , do not use bolts to pull in, torque to specs.
Replace centre in housing with carrier bearings.Replace caps and oil everthing.
Hand tighten bearing adj nut on one side, replacement ARB one on other.
Adj across untill backlash same or 1 thou tighter or so as before.
Screw both adj nuts up very hand tight and recheck backlash and turning.
That bit and the next is bit where I cant remember all.
Fit seal housing on bearing cap and adj with feeler gauge all around until equal, take care not to damage seals.
If not central oil can pump back up line.
Bend copper coloured bundy tube around carrier until it meets bulkhead
fitting, fit nut and olive and tighten with a little bit of locktite.
If later type with self aligning seal housing put spring clip in retainer and ensure its sitting cenrtal. The pipe on these is copper.
Place airline at 90psi ( ablowoff gun will work) onto outside of fitting and ensure locker operates.
Replace centre in housing using just ultra blue or red as a sealing agent.
Refit axles, check preload on axles and adj shims to suit. (MQ/MK)
Fill with 75/140 etc normal diff oil or lsd oil if you have it kicking around to be used up.
Join up blue arline onto outside of fitting and check operation again.
I may of left somethings out.
Hopefully somone has the ARB directions handy for you.
Lots of pix on the NET, Google is your friend as they are very similar the Toyota and Rover.
Bazzle
Last edited by bazzle on Mon Jul 26, 2004 8:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
the award goes to bazzle, thanks for a very infomative reply, when you said backlash is that movement of the crownwheel along the axis of the axles. as for bearing preload, why would change, eg shims. I had the centre out once before and sealed it up with a gasket go (no gasket and it leaks a little) should i use a gasket or just the sealent you recomended
Thanks for the great reply
Thanks for the great reply
if they are similar to rover...
Check the d-90 source-
I think this link will work (when i tried the sted wasn't working!)
http://www.d-90.com/
Search and there is an installation guide fro rover diffs with all info and heaps of pics!
Dave
Check the d-90 source-
I think this link will work (when i tried the sted wasn't working!)
http://www.d-90.com/
Search and there is an installation guide fro rover diffs with all info and heaps of pics!
Dave
Land Rover Discovery - GQ conversion underway
Hope this makes sense:
If you hold the pinion shaft still, then gently rotate the crownwheel against the stationary pinion--the amount the crownwheel moves before moving the pinion shaft is called the backlash--normally this would be 0.15--0.20mm. If you remove the carrier/replace bearings etc, you need to adjust the 2 locking nuts on either side of the diff carrier to achieve correct backlash. This moves the crownwheel in and out of mesh with the pinion thus changing the backlash reading.
If your re-using the original crownwheel/pinion this measurement is very important so as to match the original wear pattern. You may also need to check the contact pattern as well.
Nick
If you hold the pinion shaft still, then gently rotate the crownwheel against the stationary pinion--the amount the crownwheel moves before moving the pinion shaft is called the backlash--normally this would be 0.15--0.20mm. If you remove the carrier/replace bearings etc, you need to adjust the 2 locking nuts on either side of the diff carrier to achieve correct backlash. This moves the crownwheel in and out of mesh with the pinion thus changing the backlash reading.
If your re-using the original crownwheel/pinion this measurement is very important so as to match the original wear pattern. You may also need to check the contact pattern as well.
Nick
berazafi wrote:Once again thanks for your replies, i am currently fitting a air con style compressed air system to the car, i have been taking pics and will write a how to at the end, hope its of interest, can be achived for around $110 all up (everything new exept the air con system)...
are you using the original Air Con system and just converting it? or are you adding the endless air brackets & extra convertor?
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