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running in a rebuilt motor ?

General Tech Talk

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Posts: 568
Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 10:11 pm
Location: cranebrook, NSW

running in a rebuilt motor ?

Post by Ryan »

Gday all, just curious, my L28 engine (2.8 petrol) has just been rebuilt
new pistons. rings, rods, bearings, seals and crank, honed......... everything basically, just wondering tho what i need to do when i first start to drive it again and how do i run it in ? do i run standard oil? and can i run it on premium unleaded to start with etc ?

i know i could do all of this with the old motor but i dont want to cause any damage to the new engine

Cheers
Ryan
Posts: 295
Joined: Thu Jan 16, 2003 8:05 pm
Location: Brisbane, Southside

Post by Punchy »

just drive it

me = mechanic/engine rebuilder

with todays soft tension rings. quality hone finshes on the bores and superior quality parts..they are as good as new..if not better..

If you dont load the thing up....your more likely not to settle the rings..and consume oil giving you the false impression that theres something wrong..
get into it and enjoy the new toy :)

change the running in oil at 1500 k's

ps;;after she's settled...run a nice synthetic
45 series ute - 308 -gas -35's- lifted -no flex..But i got air lockers !

2006 VX v8 4.7 Landcruiser, bog stock. It's black so its cool !
Posts: 568
Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 10:11 pm
Location: cranebrook, NSW

Post by Ryan »

thats what i was hoping to hear :) just wanted to make sure tho cause my car has been off the road long enuff lol

Cheers
Ryan
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Joined: Sat Jan 18, 2003 1:06 pm
Location: Morwell Victoria

Post by nissang60 »

just as punchy said...good luck with ya new engine..just dont drive it like a rev head until your sure it all has bedded in and the bolts are all tight..:).i done some big jobs on different cars and i found a recheck on ALL the external nuts and bolts (on the job you done) after a bit of a run wont hurt a bit..you might find 1 or 2 that settle in after a short run and appear a bit loose..just a quick check and retension wont go astray...good luck and happy motoring..
yea yea yea ..four wheel driving is like fishing..they both
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Post by M&M Custom Engineerin »

when you change the oil for the first time drain it into a clean container and then have a look to see if any crap has come out.
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 10:11 pm
Location: cranebrook, NSW

Post by Ryan »

thanks everyone for the replies..... one last question.... will it be better to run it on premium ?? sorry if these are stupid questions but theres only one way to find out :wink:

Cheers
Ryan
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Joined: Tue Oct 22, 2002 9:53 am

Post by M&M Custom Engineerin »

it wont make any difference
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Post by Bush65 »

Don't over-rev it. Try to string together some short runs with load on the motor (accel or uphills so that gas pressure forces the rings out), followed by backing off to pull some extra lube up around the rings.
John
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Location: The Sovereign Nation of Sealabia

Post by 2car »

Punchy wrote:just drive it

me = mechanic/engine rebuilder

with todays soft tension rings. quality hone finshes on the bores and superior quality parts..they are as good as new..if not better..

If you dont load the thing up....your more likely not to settle the rings..and consume oil giving you the false impression that theres something wrong..
get into it and enjoy the new toy :)

change the running in oil at 1500 k's

ps;;after she's settled...run a nice synthetic



Hey Punchy (or anyone else that knows),

A little off topic, but can you name a good source for Chev pistons? I am after cast pistons with around 8 to 8.5:1 compression ratio. 3.875" +0.030" with a 1.560" compression height. They will not be highly stressed, so I don't need anything fancy.

Cheers

Ben
74 FJ40, 307, Hilux DBC, 35 Claws, welded rear.

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