battery in the rear of my gu

[redman]

I've got no more room under the bonet of my gu patrol and have to mount mu second battery in the rear. I have drawes in the back so I'll make somthing up for it to go in, I know I'll have to use a gel battery, But if any ones got any tips or tricks I would appeciate any imput. Thanks

[murcod]

You can buy battery containers that have in built terminals and a charge level indicator. Put the gel cell into that and then fasten it onto the drawers. Something like the Dick Smith dual battery controller works well for that sort of set up.

A relation runs that exact set up in the rear of his GQ on top of his drawers. The controller is mounted under the bonnet.

[redman]

Thanks for the info David, do you know how he runs it with the other battery ie what wire dose he use for the terminal , is it thicker than normal to help with current drop, and dose the neg. just get earthed to the body of the car or do you have to run it back to the dual battery controller. Thanks

[murcod]

It's setup using the Dick Smith controller kit. This kit is unusual in that it actually requires some resistance in the aux battery line to give it feedback on the charging current. It's a handy feature in this type of install as you don't have to buy really thick battery cable to do the long run to the rear.

It will charge the main battery first and then the aux. If the aux battery voltage is low it will limit the charge current to around 2.5 Amps until it has reached 10V (to protect the aux from damage), then it charges at a maximum of around 25 Amps (IIRC) .

Anyway, it works really well and only costs $50 and some time to make. I've been running the same controller in my Feroza for around 18mths now.

[chimpboy]

It's setup using the Dick Smith controller kit. This kit is unusual in that it actually requires some resistance in the aux battery line to give it feedback on the charging current. It's a handy feature in this type of install as you don't have to buy really thick battery cable to do the long run to the rear.

It will charge the main battery first and then the aux. If the aux battery voltage is low it will limit the charge current to around 2.5 Amps until it has reached 10V (to protect the aux from damage), then it charges at a maximum of around 25 Amps (IIRC) .

Anyway, it works really well and only costs $50 and some time to make. I've been running the same controller in my Feroza for around 18mths now.

Dick Smith is discontinuing this kit (hence a special price for a while) and when my dad spoke to their head office about it they said they'd had some problems with them - essentially he found the same problems when assembling them and has modified the kit to suit:

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=19402

I'm not posting this to do a hard sell - what I am getting at is that if you decide to assemble one yourself, let me know and I'll give you an idea of the modifications he recommends. However you are less likely than some to have issues as you can mount your kit inside the car rather than inside the engine bay, on the way to the back.

Jason

[murcod]

I just had a read of your father's mods and posted some thoughts on them. Personally I don't think the plastic insulating plate is a very good idea.

From what you said the only "problem" with the kit appears to be bad assembly practices from the end user! I sealed all of mine including all the LED's, bolt holes, and wire entry/ exit points with silicon and it's been running fine for over 18mths.

BTW the first mod I did to mine was run wires directly into the controller board to get rid of the "live" terminals just waiting to get shorted out!

[chimpboy]

I just had a read of your father's mods and posted some thoughts on them. Personally I don't think the plastic insulating plate is a very good idea.

From what you said the only "problem" with the kit appears to be bad assembly practices from the end user! I sealed all of mine including all the LED's, bolt holes, and wire entry/ exit points with silicon and it's been running fine for over 18mths.

BTW the first mod I did to mine was run wires directly into the controller board to get rid of the "live" terminals just waiting to get shorted out!

Yeah I am a lousy middle man for this; I talked to my old man and he isn't using the plastic after all. Unfortunately I am too busy atm (quit job, setting up co.) to advocate his stuff, but I will make time put some new pics up this weekend and let him explain it himself.

Jason