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Narva headlights
Narva headlights
anyone got these in there zook. I just got some 55/100 watt and im overly happy with em. but im not 100% sure they are getting full power i just replaced the ones that were in there is this correct i dont need to put a relay in do i??? there should already be all set up from the other headlights. But they are great lights them with the 100 watt spotties i already got is by far a great light set up i recomend them highly....
headlight relay
Use a multimeter and check the voltage at the back of the headlights. If it's more than about .2 volts less than measuring the voltage directly across the battery, put a relay in.
Volts Brightness
100% = 100%
95% = 83%
90% = 67%
85% = 53%
I bought a Nissan G60 a few years ago, it had 115/95 globes in it, but they were so dim, they weren't lighting up the driveway in front of me. I put 2 relays on (one for high, one for low beam), and you couldn't look at the low beams from any less than about 20 metres away, and the high beams, on the freeway, when we were 500metres from the green 'Albury 48' etc. signs, the glare was so bright we had to turn the high's off cos we couldn't see anything else.
Volts Brightness
100% = 100%
95% = 83%
90% = 67%
85% = 53%
I bought a Nissan G60 a few years ago, it had 115/95 globes in it, but they were so dim, they weren't lighting up the driveway in front of me. I put 2 relays on (one for high, one for low beam), and you couldn't look at the low beams from any less than about 20 metres away, and the high beams, on the freeway, when we were 500metres from the green 'Albury 48' etc. signs, the glare was so bright we had to turn the high's off cos we couldn't see anything else.
I used to use 130/90's on stock wireing in my 92 sierra.. worked well .. but they were to easy to blow (as they generate so much heat even on low beam, I could crack headlight lenses if I went through a decent puddle after the lights had been on high beam for a while) I have since swapped back to 100/55's with some drivingf lights .. works almost as good ... so what I can only see 450 meters now instead of 500 .. in the Zuk that is heaps .....
I honestly dont think that you need a relay .. but not ever having run my lights with one it is possible it is worthwhile.
One thing to remeber on a zuk the headlights used a switched earth (the earth is also fused and it appears tro be a slighty wacky setup to me)
Guy
I honestly dont think that you need a relay .. but not ever having run my lights with one it is possible it is worthwhile.
One thing to remeber on a zuk the headlights used a switched earth (the earth is also fused and it appears tro be a slighty wacky setup to me)
Guy
http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/reviews/narva/narva.htm
There is a review of narva spot/fog lights on the ausjeep website.
It will be updated soon with some shots of the lights at night etc.
Even though it isn't headlights - just thought I would let you know
cheers
z
There is a review of narva spot/fog lights on the ausjeep website.
It will be updated soon with some shots of the lights at night etc.
Even though it isn't headlights - just thought I would let you know
cheers
z
well i was under the impression that there would have to be some sorta relay there for the factory lights but maube not a real big one but maybe im wrong i dont know that much bout factory stuff really they build things different to the way i would do it but if anyone has a diagram could you post it so we can see whats doing
my understanding is that you would grab the normal beam and high beam input wires into the back of the headlights and connect each of them to their own relay which would each connect directly from the battery to the headlight. that way the only voltage drop that would be experienced would be the drop inside the relay (minimal i would hope) and the only thing that the power in the current head light connection would have to go to is the relay - which wouldn't require very much.
hope that helps.
cheers,
Greg
hope that helps.
cheers,
Greg
ive been for that drive and ive noticed a problem seems now that ive got these lights in my spotties are playing up when ya turn the highbeam on sometimes the spotties take maybe 1 second longer to come on then the main lights??? sometimes not at all specially when just at 1000 rpm they dont like comming on. so does this mean the relay for the spotties is to small??? thats what im thinking but im no where near sure bout it what does everyone else think im very happy with the narva lights i replaced for the stock ones
love_mud the spotties have been on for bout a year and yesterday i changed the factory headlights to these H4 narva ones off me mate just swapped my shit standard ones for his good ones... just plug in the exact same as the standard ones i dont know whats doing with the spotties now they are being gay so hopefully they just need a bigger relay fingers crossed hopefully someone out there nows the problem thats what im hopeing for
i got an auto electrician to wire up my spotties because i wanted them to work off the high beam signal (as per road worthy requirements (unlike the rest of my car))...
I believe he wired the rely to work off a switch, the switch got its power source from the high beam light on the dash board which is wired up normally - unlike the back of the headlights - perhaps that would solve the issue you are talking about...
cost me about 70 bucks i think.
I believe he wired the rely to work off a switch, the switch got its power source from the high beam light on the dash board which is wired up normally - unlike the back of the headlights - perhaps that would solve the issue you are talking about...
cost me about 70 bucks i think.
skjtb wrote:fit a relays for both high and low beam and use heavy duty cable for the wiring. the high wattage bulbs your using may draw too much current for the standard wiring. this may generate too much heat and let the smoke out.
was about to say the exact same thing.
Full headlight relay from ARB is $40 or something and helps out a hell of a lot.
I am sure you can get them a bit cheaper somewhere else.
Get a new relay for your spotties as well.
Wiring diagram
Here is a wiring diagram.
http://www.offroadhams.com/tech/Samurai-Wiring-Diagram.jpg
It's from a US manual but should be the same. U should be able to work it out the headlights from this.
Thanks to PBB for the link...
http://www.offroadhams.com/tech/Samurai-Wiring-Diagram.jpg
It's from a US manual but should be the same. U should be able to work it out the headlights from this.
Thanks to PBB for the link...
Those spotties are small. LOL
me got NANE 7100's 225mm 130w big and powerfull.
I have also upgraded my headlights in my drover as is has sealed units from factory and they suck, i replaced them with non-sealed and they are much brighter now, But have got the same problem Zukin as when i switch high beam with spotties the take a extra 1 sec to come on.
They are wired as per legal with relay and wired through ign with a swith.
I think will check all earths and voltages during week.
cheers
me got NANE 7100's 225mm 130w big and powerfull.
I have also upgraded my headlights in my drover as is has sealed units from factory and they suck, i replaced them with non-sealed and they are much brighter now, But have got the same problem Zukin as when i switch high beam with spotties the take a extra 1 sec to come on.
They are wired as per legal with relay and wired through ign with a swith.
I think will check all earths and voltages during week.
cheers
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
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