Got an engine driven compressor and found a good way to lubricate it.
I want to run it into a tank, i have the tank ( just a small 5 to 10 litre job ) and want to know what size valve to put on it and does it go on the inlet to the tank or the out let on the tank?
cheers
screwy
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Air Tank Valve Question
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Air Tank Valve Question
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Screwy
Take the tank to an air compressor parts/service place and buy a non return valve. My tank came off a truck and the threads were the same. As well as the main inlet line, there's also a port for a 5mm line that goes to the pressure cut off switch, if you wish to purchase one. I'd strongly suggest it.
Get a switch with one inlet (bottom) and three outlets. On one I put a pressure release valve to set at whatever pressure you wish, a pressure gauge on one and the air outlet to the other. I also made up a manifold from three "T" pieces that I got from Enzed.
Both the pressure cut off switch and the release valve you have to set yourself, its not hard......even I can do it!!!
The stuff from the air compressor shop (pressure cut off switch, relief valve, pressure gauge, 4m of 5mm line and thread tape, I got for $50. The other fittings and line cost me $120 from Enzed.
Its well worth the effort, mine works a charm for airing up tyres and for air lockers, with my 10 litre tank. The only thing I'd change would be a larger tank, or an array of tanks.....maybe soon.
Take the tank to an air compressor parts/service place and buy a non return valve. My tank came off a truck and the threads were the same. As well as the main inlet line, there's also a port for a 5mm line that goes to the pressure cut off switch, if you wish to purchase one. I'd strongly suggest it.
Get a switch with one inlet (bottom) and three outlets. On one I put a pressure release valve to set at whatever pressure you wish, a pressure gauge on one and the air outlet to the other. I also made up a manifold from three "T" pieces that I got from Enzed.
Both the pressure cut off switch and the release valve you have to set yourself, its not hard......even I can do it!!!
The stuff from the air compressor shop (pressure cut off switch, relief valve, pressure gauge, 4m of 5mm line and thread tape, I got for $50. The other fittings and line cost me $120 from Enzed.
Its well worth the effort, mine works a charm for airing up tyres and for air lockers, with my 10 litre tank. The only thing I'd change would be a larger tank, or an array of tanks.....maybe soon.
Big Dave, Scarborough, Qld
Loose Screws 4wd Racing Team
Loose Screws 4wd Racing Team
Make sure you use something better than ordinary air hose between the compressor and the tank as it gets very hot. I used hydrulic hose. It's rated for 3000psi and you can get the fittings to go straight onto the compressor and the none return valve/tank. If you get a 3/8 non return valve it should screw straight into tank.
And what's a good way to lube the compressor
And what's a good way to lube the compressor
When ive got it installed ill take some pics and let ya guess how i lubricated it 
I will reveal all when i know it definatly works a charm.
The pic you have there, thats of the outlet or the inlet?
can u take a pic of the other?
also there is only the 2 openings correct?
cheers
Screwy
Thanks for the advice so far guys, much help
I will reveal all when i know it definatly works a charm.
The pic you have there, thats of the outlet or the inlet?
can u take a pic of the other?
also there is only the 2 openings correct?
cheers
Screwy
Thanks for the advice so far guys, much help
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Tank outlet. T has pressure switch, releif valve and hose goes to tap, T with outlet then another tap conected to ARB compressor and diff locks. That way either comp can be used if one stops working 
Inlet is at other end. I'll put up photo of inlet tomorrow if you like.
There is a drain at the bottom.
Inlet is at other end. I'll put up photo of inlet tomorrow if you like.
There is a drain at the bottom.
Allways been a TOYOTA man.
Now I'm old and grumpy as well.
Now I'm old and grumpy as well.
Use an industrial adjustable type pressure switch with an inbuilt unloader valve. Install a one-way valve on the inlet to the tank. Then use a T Piece in between the compressor outlet and the one-way valve. Run a hose from the 3rd port of the T-Piece to the unloader valve in the pressure switch.
Then somewhere on the output of the tank, feed a hose to the pressure monitoring port of the pressure switch. Install a safety valve on the other spare port on the pressure switch. Set pressure switch to desired cut-out pressure, cable up compressor clutch via the switch and your away....
I'm guessing that youve used an inline oiler on the inlet to the compressor with a filter on the output. Then youve taken the drain part of the filter and fed it back into the compressor inlet thus providing a self sustaining system automatic oiling system??
Nick
Then somewhere on the output of the tank, feed a hose to the pressure monitoring port of the pressure switch. Install a safety valve on the other spare port on the pressure switch. Set pressure switch to desired cut-out pressure, cable up compressor clutch via the switch and your away....
I'm guessing that youve used an inline oiler on the inlet to the compressor with a filter on the output. Then youve taken the drain part of the filter and fed it back into the compressor inlet thus providing a self sustaining system automatic oiling system??
Nick
Thanks for the Help so far, Im starting to get a good idea as to how to go about this.
1. The engine driven compressor pushes air through a Line that can withstand high pressure and heat, this leads into the inlet of the tank that has a non- return valve on it ???? Is this part correct????
2. The Outlet on the tank has a T piece screwed into it.?
3. On the T piece, What exactly goes into it?
- Something to go to a line for plug in tool access
- a line for twin lockers
- and an electical pressure switch?
does any thing else have to go on before the air lines?
also, how does the wiring get setup to the compressor to turn it on then let the pressure switch turn it off?
screwy
1. The engine driven compressor pushes air through a Line that can withstand high pressure and heat, this leads into the inlet of the tank that has a non- return valve on it ???? Is this part correct????
2. The Outlet on the tank has a T piece screwed into it.?
3. On the T piece, What exactly goes into it?
- Something to go to a line for plug in tool access
- a line for twin lockers
- and an electical pressure switch?
does any thing else have to go on before the air lines?
also, how does the wiring get setup to the compressor to turn it on then let the pressure switch turn it off?
screwy
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1.YES
2.if ya want, but u could run a line to a manifold block.
3.quick coupling for air tools and shit, and ya air locker lines.
on ya inlet u also need a check v/v(non return valve), i would put the pressure switch on the inlet side of ya tank, but after the check v/v.
run a line from the inlet side ON ya tank into your cab with a pressure gauge on it then you'll always know the pressure u have and when it's cutting in at.
i think the pressure switch should be wired up just as neg and pos,
then u just set ya min and max, and your away.
2.if ya want, but u could run a line to a manifold block.
3.quick coupling for air tools and shit, and ya air locker lines.
on ya inlet u also need a check v/v(non return valve), i would put the pressure switch on the inlet side of ya tank, but after the check v/v.
run a line from the inlet side ON ya tank into your cab with a pressure gauge on it then you'll always know the pressure u have and when it's cutting in at.
i think the pressure switch should be wired up just as neg and pos,
then u just set ya min and max, and your away.
i am doing mine on a mq at the moment and bough a whole compressor for bunning for 98 bucks, came with all the fittings i need, the preasure switch even bleads off the pressure before the check valve to stop compressed air sitting on the outlet of the compressor before the check valve. I just used the exising air con and everything up to where the air con lines go into the car installed the contraption on the firewall were the air con goes through and ran i line to the tank see attached picture, by the way this is not finished as yet so ingnore the dodey test wiring
The check valve on the inlet to the tank prevents air from the tank escaping past the rings of the compressor. It also allows the compressor to start under no load preventing any belt slips.
For the check valve to work properly, you need to use a pressure switch with a built in unloader valve( as in berazafi's pics) When the pressure switch activates, it also operates an unloader valve which in turn unloads the line between the output of the compressor and the check valve thus closing the check valve and sealing the tank. This is why the T-PIECE needs to be upstream of the check valve.
On the T PIECE: 1 port goes to the compressor output, the second goes to the check valve, the third connects to the unloader valve in the pressure switch. On the OUTPUT of the tank somewhere,feed another line to the pressure sensing port of the pressure switch..
Use aircon hose for the first 1m of the discharge hose from the compressor as it will get pretty hot.
Does this make sense now?
Nick
For the check valve to work properly, you need to use a pressure switch with a built in unloader valve( as in berazafi's pics) When the pressure switch activates, it also operates an unloader valve which in turn unloads the line between the output of the compressor and the check valve thus closing the check valve and sealing the tank. This is why the T-PIECE needs to be upstream of the check valve.
On the T PIECE: 1 port goes to the compressor output, the second goes to the check valve, the third connects to the unloader valve in the pressure switch. On the OUTPUT of the tank somewhere,feed another line to the pressure sensing port of the pressure switch..
Use aircon hose for the first 1m of the discharge hose from the compressor as it will get pretty hot.
Does this make sense now?
Nick
Much Clearer now, thanks guys!!
Ill get started on it as soon as the motor goes back in and then im sure ill have some more questions to ask ya.
cheers
screwy
Ill get started on it as soon as the motor goes back in and then im sure ill have some more questions to ask ya.
cheers
screwy
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