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Can the ARB compressor run air tools??
Moderator: -Scott-
Can the ARB compressor run air tools??
such as:
angle grinder??
air wrench (not rattle gun)??
the tank seems to be a little on the small side, can a remote tank be fitted??
anyone done this sort of thisng???
any info appreciated
cheers
angle grinder??
air wrench (not rattle gun)??
the tank seems to be a little on the small side, can a remote tank be fitted??
anyone done this sort of thisng???
any info appreciated
cheers
NL 3.5l auto with front & rear lockers,winch, custom 3.15 T/C gears
Yes and no. The inbuilt tank is a little on the small side (Read: Way too fuggin SMALL!).
You can fit another tank in between the existing tank and the hose coupling but you'll need a real big tank to run air tools and they'll prob only work for the top half of a tank fill then you'll have to wait till christmas for the ARB to refill it.
On the bright side, you'll fill your tyres a lot quicker but prob only the first 2 depending on the size of your tank. Then you'll just be running on direct ARB pressure.
More difficult but cheaper and heaps quicker to run an extra A/C style compressor. Get "Noisey" to give you the run down on how he fitted his.
Cheers.
You can fit another tank in between the existing tank and the hose coupling but you'll need a real big tank to run air tools and they'll prob only work for the top half of a tank fill then you'll have to wait till christmas for the ARB to refill it.
On the bright side, you'll fill your tyres a lot quicker but prob only the first 2 depending on the size of your tank. Then you'll just be running on direct ARB pressure.
More difficult but cheaper and heaps quicker to run an extra A/C style compressor. Get "Noisey" to give you the run down on how he fitted his.
Cheers.
KRiS
RoldIT wrote:More difficult but cheaper and heaps quicker to run an extra A/C style compressor. Get "Noisey" to give you the run down on how he fitted his.
C'mon Noisey - spill it!
I want to do this, but not sure where to put the compressor (no, I'm not giving up the a/c - I'm too old for that. ) What did you do?
Thanks,
Scott
To put it simply. He used the same brackets as the existing A/C and unsed some brackets he grabbed with the second A/C to mod and slightly lower the current A/C and bolt the second compressor to the top of the existing A/C. Basically to remove them, you have to take both out of the car at once as they are real close together. The two are linked together with one belt and the original A/C runs from the original engine belt.
Works well but I think a 2" body lift is required for room. Because of space it is a bitch to take out if you need to work on it.
He may ellaborate on any other issues he faced.
Works well but I think a 2" body lift is required for room. Because of space it is a bitch to take out if you need to work on it.
He may ellaborate on any other issues he faced.
KRiS
Hey - stop spilling the beans - this is a closely guarded secret.
Basically you don't need a body lift. The standard A/C bracket was taken out of the car and the split into 2 components.
1) the bracket that mounts to the block.
2) the 2 brackets that were welded on bracket 1 and bolt to the compressor.
Slot bracket 1) so that the 2 brackets can be lowered and slightly rotated (effectively dropping the original A/C by about 1-2") and reweld.
Second A/C unit mounts directly above the original. If you get a second A/C unit make sure you get the bracket it mounts to because you need to cut it and weld it to the original bracket @ about a 45 degree angle so that the second unit fits without hitting the battery carrier.
Original A/C still runs off the original belt and the second unit piggybacks off the first.
Clear as MUD
Basically you don't need a body lift. The standard A/C bracket was taken out of the car and the split into 2 components.
1) the bracket that mounts to the block.
2) the 2 brackets that were welded on bracket 1 and bolt to the compressor.
Slot bracket 1) so that the 2 brackets can be lowered and slightly rotated (effectively dropping the original A/C by about 1-2") and reweld.
Second A/C unit mounts directly above the original. If you get a second A/C unit make sure you get the bracket it mounts to because you need to cut it and weld it to the original bracket @ about a 45 degree angle so that the second unit fits without hitting the battery carrier.
Original A/C still runs off the original belt and the second unit piggybacks off the first.
Clear as MUD
When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading
Noisey wrote:Hey - stop spilling the beans - this is a closely guarded secret.
Spill this ...
Noisey wrote:Basically you don't need a body lift.
Errr....
Noisey wrote:...because you need to cut it and weld it to the original bracket @ about a 45 degree angle so that the second unit fits without hitting the battery carrier.
^ ... isn't this the reason you need a body lift? So there is room?
KRiS
Nah - there would be enough room.
or
BUY A GRINDER (you've seen this done! )
Mine only sits so high because of the size of the belt between the two units. Remember, the Sanden units can run up to about a 45 degree angle if required (by memory - no quoting) and I still have a good inch or so above the front pumpkin so the original could go lower if required.
or
BUY A GRINDER (you've seen this done! )
Mine only sits so high because of the size of the belt between the two units. Remember, the Sanden units can run up to about a 45 degree angle if required (by memory - no quoting) and I still have a good inch or so above the front pumpkin so the original could go lower if required.
Last edited by Noisey on Fri Aug 06, 2004 12:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading
My standard A/C had a double pulley. Second unit also has a double pulley. Original A/C runs exactly as it does standard all that you do is buy a REALLY tiny fan belt and run it between the two A/C units. That way the Air Con is not effected (still runs from the crank) and the second unit just hitches a ride.
If ya want photos I should be able to get some shots.
It's a good system. Quick air up for tyres and able to sustain air tools as long as you gotta tank.
If ya want photos I should be able to get some shots.
It's a good system. Quick air up for tyres and able to sustain air tools as long as you gotta tank.
When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading
Guys,
came across this web site
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/burnin/ ... 0Tanks.htm
they have a kit to convert the air con compressor to a pumpfor $44.
is this the way to go?????
does anyone have any idea
cheers
came across this web site
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/burnin/ ... 0Tanks.htm
they have a kit to convert the air con compressor to a pumpfor $44.
is this the way to go?????
does anyone have any idea
cheers
NL 3.5l auto with front & rear lockers,winch, custom 3.15 T/C gears
Hay all
Um all i do is pump up my spair tire untill the arb compressor dies 100 odd kpa then run the tools off tte spair wheel, cant do long stuff but its a good excuse to stop and drink oops think. I am also running a second compressor (bushmaster) which is alot quicker, well it was till it died.
Um all i do is pump up my spair tire untill the arb compressor dies 100 odd kpa then run the tools off tte spair wheel, cant do long stuff but its a good excuse to stop and drink oops think. I am also running a second compressor (bushmaster) which is alot quicker, well it was till it died.
Cut down Sierra cab on extended LWB chasie running, Hilux front and Bundy back, with a 4AGZE should be finished about umm soon. A 60 Series work truck and some go fast toys too.
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