Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.

60 series rust

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX

Post Reply
Posts: 5179
Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2003 8:15 pm
Location: Brisbane Australia

60 series rust

Post by Shadow »

hey guys

my 60 has started to rust out in the roof :|

just wondering if anyone has had the pleasure of fixing this and if anyone had success in fixing it. Some panel beaters say bog it and pray, others say weld it and repaint it, dont really know what to do.


have had quotes from $450 to $1100....


i priced a new turret from toyota at $2500


so thats outa the equation lol....


the panel beaters i have spoken too seem to think that it will keep coming through, atm it has only one hole at the front passengers side, however, near the back has some rust just starting to come through :|
Posts: 810
Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2004 8:02 am
Location: Somewhere in NSW

Post by brighty »

unfortunately all 60's suffer this problem after being weathered for so many years, I have 2 60's and both show rust in the seams of the front pillars and along the roof gutters in diff places. Once the rust is there it is bloody hard to get rid of.
Did hear of a guy getting a new roof.... old one taken off and new one fitted, (not sure where he got this from or wether it was custom made) solved the gutter prob but rust kept coming thru the pillars.

Hope that may be of some assistance.
When in doubt..... UTE-ERIZE it!!!
Posts: 964
Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2003 6:58 pm
Location: brisbane

Post by bj56 »

cut it out weld a plate in it and bog it up i work in a panle shop and you can get rid off it but most shops wount want to tuch it as rust is shit work so they spin you a story i have had 2 do a few 60 ser roofs in the last 2 years or so i have been there and they are a pain in the ass but you beter off paying the $$$ and finding some one who will weld plates in and do it all right will keep the rust out off it for a few years atleast then bog will probly only late 6 mounths 2 a year depending on how bad the holes are
Posts: 5179
Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2003 8:15 pm
Location: Brisbane Australia

Post by Shadow »

bj56 wrote:cut it out weld a plate in it and bog it up i work in a panle shop and you can get rid off it but most shops wount want to tuch it as rust is shit work so they spin you a story i have had 2 do a few 60 ser roofs in the last 2 years or so i have been there and they are a pain in the ass but you beter off paying the $$$ and finding some one who will weld plates in and do it all right will keep the rust out off it for a few years atleast then bog will probly only late 6 mounths 2 a year depending on how bad the holes are


i have access to a mig and angle grinder

would it be a major task to weld the plates in myself ?

i have never done this before but i am fairly handy with a welder.

i assume you mean just cut all the rust away, bang it in a bit, weld some plates over and then use bog to form the shape again?

do you weld all the way around the plate or just tack it in place?
Posts: 964
Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2003 6:58 pm
Location: brisbane

Post by bj56 »

this is how it is dont the right way it can be dont alot off ways but this is the bets longes lasting

grind the rust back just back 2 steel so u can see how far it gose for
make a plate to ruff size making sure it gose right to the shiny steel trace around it on to the car then cut the rust and steel u traced around out off the car then weld the plate in flush putting masking tape over the hole helps to hold it in why you tack it in place we weld it all the way but only do short welds then move to anothe rspot other wise it will get to hot and disort the steel the bog is just to get the shape fill in lows etc tap the weld and around the weld down a littel bit befor you putt your bog in not hard just takes a bit off time to do it if u need any more advice just pm me
Posts: 125
Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 3:38 pm
Location: perth - for the time being, Leaving when I can afford it

Post by Birlo »

I got rust in my door pillars
I just brushed it with a wire brush till it was right back
Bogged 'er up and painted it with touch up paint
Haven't had any problems since
albeit I haven't looked
Parents had a 60 though
and you could of pushed the roof from the inside and it would of fallen off
Don't leave it to long
You can't kill a 60... Believe me... I've tried...
In the end, you can... drive a gu now... still want a 60
Posts: 284
Joined: Fri Mar 12, 2004 3:43 pm
Location: Rockhampton

Post by skootin »

There are rust repair section's available ie. side of roof and gutter section folded to the correct shape.
TRY ALL CRASH PARTS :idea:
I'm not stuck I'm over here!
Watch where you driven!!!
Posts: 5179
Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2003 8:15 pm
Location: Brisbane Australia

Post by Shadow »

skootin wrote:There are rust repair section's available ie. side of roof and gutter section folded to the correct shape.
TRY ALL CRASH PARTS :idea:


rang all crash parts and they just sell flat roof repair material

asked about preformed stuff and he said no O_O
Posts: 5179
Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2003 8:15 pm
Location: Brisbane Australia

Post by Shadow »

some people tend to indicate that once repaird putting a couple of bungs around and squirting diesel in every 3 months will stop most of the rust coming back, is this true? if so has anyone done it and where did you put the bungs, maybe in the door openings?
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests