Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user. If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
No, but I think that someone recently mentioned a tarago pitman arm fitting maybe this has more drop.
If you are SPUA you shouldn't need one.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Just trying to build it so if i decide to go SPOA later i can do so with as little grief as possible.
Have been looking at all of that useless sheet metal tonight. If i cut out a little above the inner guard and then move the inner guard up a little it should clear the 35x14.5's.
I like the idea of a tube front clip that can be changed to a regular front clip with relative ease.
[quote="Harb"]Well I'm guessing that they didn't think everyone would carry on like a big bunch of sooky girls over it like they have........[/quote]
Centreforce do an excellent dual friction clutch from what ive heard. They are available from Calmini i think and maybe Rocky Road Outfitters in the US. I read somewhere that RRO's has a distributor is Australia somewhere.
A mate of mine put a new stronger clutch in his recently when he went up to 32's and he reckons it has absolutely no chance of slipping. Will find out what kind it was for you next time I see him.
Hey James with the 6:1 tcase don't bother upgrading the clutch, you won't need it with gearing, I changed mine and fitted a factory one. (Hd was like twice the price)
With 6:1 it'll take off on any hill off idle, That aside it pays to be able to slip the clutch sometimes.
vitarajim wrote:Stock clutch it is then. I assume i need a 1.3ltr flywheel and clutch to go between the 1.6 vut motor and 1.3 gear box?
Does the 1.3 flywheel bolt straight up to the 1.6 vit motor?
Bingo - 1.3L fly wheel is required
It's meant to bolt straight up... apparenlty there will be some minor clearance issues with the sierra starter motor to fit next to the 1.6 block - but nothing that a quick clean up with the grinder won't sort out for you
The rear axle has moved about 4 or so inches, the front i'm not sure have just done RUF. Someone around here will be able to tell you, i think it's about 2-3inches. But i have some longer springs here that i'm going to put in so the front will have another 1 inch added in length.
[quote="Harb"]Well I'm guessing that they didn't think everyone would carry on like a big bunch of sooky girls over it like they have........[/quote]
if you run a high steer setup then there is no need for a dropped arm. I used the std vitara arm and modified a std sierra steering rod (cut to length machined down 1mm and threadded to take the adjuster off an ifs hilux ball joint , so 1 end is suzuki the other is hilux and has a l-r adjuster on 1 end looks factory) . mount the box on a milled piece of 20mm plate to correct the mounting angle. make sure the shaft angle is the same as the std box and it will work sweet.