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I had my engine a while ago. My hilux went in with perfect brakes but come back with only front brakes. I had alot of trouble with this mechanic and my vehicle will never be going back, blah blah blah.
I took it to a brake mechanics who replaced all pads/shoes, machined the rotors, replaced wheel cylinders and the master cylinder to no avail. It has been sitting around for other reasons for a while now and I am starting to mod it.
I guess it leaves the proportioning valve, brake booster(surely not) and maybe a kinked line. I havent had a real look but I have bled the brakes so I know the is flow to the rear but it just seems like a weird problem.
Have you tried driving it ( only need to do it at around 20kph ) and locking up the brakes to isolate which diffs brakes arent working if so did either of the front or rear brakes lockup?.
A simple test like that will show which half of the brakeing system has failed.
If none lock up its a common area that needs investigating >>> the master cylinder/booster.
You seem to indicate that its the rear diff area ...
How strong was the "flow" to the rear when you bleed it ?
IE:
did it just dribble out or come on in a strong stream?
If its slow, then this would indicate a blockage in the line be it porportioning valve,crushed or blocked line, failed master cylinder/booster.
Did you try a "power bleed" @ the Brake specialist ???
What type of pads did they refit ??? soft or hard .....
Soft will give awsome braking but wear quickly... opposite for hard pads.
Kingy
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
Thanks Kingy, the fronts are working fine. The rears are causing me alot of trouble but they seemed to have pressure when we bled em. I have a couple of new diffs here (drum to drum) so I will wait for a result when they are in but Im not gunna hold my breath. It also has a very soft pedal even though it has been bled twice now????
Line lock each hose individually and see which one improves the pedal the most,this pinpoints where to look.Then for the rear you could disconnect each line from the T on the diff and fit a bleed nipple to attempt to isolate each side,it may be one wheel cylinder takeing air back in past the seals,this can happen,especially parked with the handbrake on,takeing pressure off the seals.
J Top
My handbrake has seized and the cable needs replacing so that will be a great place to look when I get to that. Thanks guys.
I'm wondering if there is a fitting maybe shaped like a Z that one could use to pull the stretch out of worn cables??? If it is not available it would be about time someone designed one eh.
If your handbrake is not working, prise the little rubber bung off the back of each side's backing plate and use a screwdriver to turn the adjuster. Don't worry about it adjusting too far, it's got it's own regulator.
It takes a fair bit of turning to get the brake shoes seated. I had no brakes for a while until I did this.
Thanks Slosh, will also check this one out in a few weeks. Doin all the fun mods atm I'll curse and swear at the other troubles when I run out of fun things to do
high n mighty wrote:My handbrake has seized and the cable needs replacing so that will be a great place to look when I get to that. Thanks guys.
I'm wondering if there is a fitting maybe shaped like a Z that one could use to pull the stretch out of worn cables??? If it is not available it would be about time someone designed one eh.
Which part of the cable need replacing?? I think i may have a couple in the shed. Also there is an adjuster you can get to take the slack out of a cable looks a little like a bow and arrow (have one somewhere)
Dunno mate, havent got that far into it. The mech told me it was farked a while ago, I think it is basically the main cable??? I will pm ya when I know, thanks Craig'o
I'll curse and swear at the other troubles when I run out of fun things to do 
